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‘73 Evinrude Ignition Diagnosis Question

T

TreemanMI

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Working on a no spark on all cylinders condition on this 3 cyl 65hp. I followed the directions from CDI for troubleshooting but I’m not 100% clear on what’s wrong. Here’s the data:

Kill circuit isn’t the issue.

brown to brown/orange (stator) is giving me 260V DVA connected, 340V disconnected from the pack. Both within spec. Resistance is 736 ohms. Slightly below spec of 870-930.

Black/White to White/Blacks (sensors 1,2,3) all have 1.1-1.3V DVA. Within spec. Resistance is below spec by 2 ohms (10-20 ohm range. Reading at 8ohm).

Black/White to GND is 280V DVA. Within spec.

White/Blacks to GND are all 5V DVA. Spec is 150-400V DVA.

my assumption is the power pack is bad because the sensor wires from the timer base are not showing enough DVA to GND, but the timer base is still good because they are producing voltage within spec.

Am I correct? Timer base/stator cost on this thing, combined with other parts it needs almost doesn’t make it worth the effort in my mind…

thanks in advance!
 
If Racer can't help, try Tim's Outboard in Hackensack Minnesota. I might have a used one here too. I think it's listed on eBay.
Tim's #2186822331, Mike, Dan, Callie, or Theresa.
 
Boobie said:
Try a new power pack.
Click to expand...

It worked! Spark on all three now. Starts and idles fine. But I have a new issue….

Bottom cylinder has water intrusion. Had a nice oily/water mix when I pulled the plug. I’m guessing it’s from the exhaust side water jacket. Cylinder still has good compression.

Is it possible to remove the exhaust plate and gaskets without pulling the whole power head off? To me it looks like there are two bolts near the cowl on the bottom that wouldn’t be able to be threaded all the way out due to clearances…

I appreciate any advice on this.
 
Boobie said:
Drill some holes in the side cowling to get the bolts out. When done put some plugs in the holes.
Click to expand...

that was my thought as well. Guess it’s time to get the drill out! Thank you. I’ll update once I get this thing off (if it will even come off after 50yrs of service).
 
TreemanMI said:
that was my thought as well. Guess it’s time to get the drill out! Thank you. I’ll update once I get this thing off (if it will even come off after 50yrs of service).
Click to expand...

Well I pulled the heads to check everything out and it all looks good. No apparent head gasket leak. Surprisingly clean inside and cylinder walls look beautiful.

Exhaust cover is now my enemy. I snapped three of the bolts that hold the side cover on. Any advice on how to get them out? Am I totally screwed. Luckily they are near the top right side so I could drill them out but I don’t know how much metal I have to work with behind them and don’t want to destroy this thing by going nuts on it.

Can they be drilled and then retapped? The bolts seem to be very soft so I don’t think an extractor would do much good….please help :)
 
Do not use any kind of "Easy-Out". There is no such thing. It ain't easy and it won't get them out. Drill them out and use Heli-Coils. Warning: A learned skill.
 
Ha, well said! The trick is to try not to break them off in the first place. Soak, lightly tap, heat, cool....anything but break them off. Don't know why, but I can usually get them to move. If I fail, I have a quality set of left handed drill bits, if you keep your bit nicely centered, it can actually work.
 
Well I succeeded in removing the exhaust side plate. The three broken bolts got drilled out and holes retapped. I ordered all new gaskets. Couple of questions for you guys:

Should I use some type of sealer on the gaskets like perfect seal for the exhaust side and head side?
anyone have the torque specs and install sequence for the exhaust and head bolts?

thanks for the help. This has been a “fun” one. Slow progress but I’m just doing it to help a friend and only charging him 2 cases of beer :)
 
These bolts were so long there’s no way penetrating oil would ever make it to the threads….and I’m always hesitant to get steel bolts really hot in an aluminum block. I did spray every single bolt a few times over the course of a couple days. The amount of corrosion in the exhaust side threads was pretty insane from that failed gasket.
 
TreemanMI said:
Well I succeeded in removing the exhaust side plate. The three broken bolts got drilled out and holes retapped. I ordered all new gaskets. Couple of questions for you guys:

Should I use some type of sealer on the gaskets like perfect seal for the exhaust side and head side?
anyone have the torque specs and install sequence for the exhaust and head bolts?

thanks for the help. This has been a “fun” one. Slow progress but I’m just doing it to help a friend and only charging him 2 cases of beer :)
Click to expand...

Yes, absolutely use sealer on exhaust gaskets. Probably not on head gasket,, assuming it is pre-coated
You must check that exhaust baffle plate for warpage around the exhaust ports. They are all warped. #1 killer of that model engine.
 
fdrgator said:
Yes, absolutely use sealer on exhaust gaskets. Probably not on head gasket,, assuming it is pre-coated
You must check that exhaust baffle plate for warpage around the exhaust ports. They are all warped. #1 killer of that model engine.
Click to expand...

thanks. I just got all the new gaskets. One weird thing is that they aren’t identical to the old gaskets. And on this site they didn’t have the last gasket on the outer plate even shown as available. I’m wondering if maybe the design changed between 73 and now?

also - anyone know torque specs for exhaust and head bolts?
 
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