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AQ125A270 problems

"Unfortunately, I haven't

"Unfortunately, I haven't had any time to work on it. The parts should be at my door step when I get home though. I do have a question...
when you remove the top of the outdrive (top cover, where the dipstick is), is there supposed to be a gasket or o-ring? mine has sort of a square rubber gasket, the book shows an o-ring. any ideas?

Guys... Thank You for your help!

Mike"
 
"The book (Seloc) show

"The book (Seloc) shows a "gasket" in the exploded view (same as the parts book) but calls it an "o-ring" during the dismantling process. Don't loose any sleep about it.
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"
 
"Question.. how do you remove

"Question.. how do you remove the u-joint assy? I removed the 4 allen bolts, and can not seem to free the housing. Any idea's? According to the book, there is nothing other than the 4 bolts that hold the housing in place. Did I miss something? part 38 are the bolts that I refer to, and they hold the housing in.

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1875&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,1862,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,1870,1886,1875,1877



Mike"
 
"The 4 bolts is all what you n

"The 4 bolts is all what you need to remove, then tap the housing gently with a plastic or rubber hammer until it is out. No need to remove the upper gear housing."
 
"Okay, what if we tried to gen

"Okay, what if we tried to gently tap the housing with a hammer and couldn't get it to move? Should it easily come out with the 4 bolts removed? There was alot of yuck (white powdery lookin stuff) on the bolts when we took them out. Had to use a small impact to remove the bolts. I just don't want to screw it up.

Mike"
 
"Well, you can then try using

"Well, you can then try using a stick of dynamite.
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Now seriously, I don't see any reason why it should not come out. However, once it comes out and you clean everything, remember to coat with "perfect seal" both the o-rings and runrrounding sourfaces that are not in contact with the outdrive oil; also, coat the bolts (shank and threads) so that they do not get seized."
 
"update... finally removed the

"update... finally removed the u-joint assembly, it was as if it was welded, what a royal pain. U-joints are done. Now for the rest.....

Mike"
 
"update(again).... got

"update(again).... got the primary shaft out, held what was left of the race with a pair of channel lock pliers and gave a few taps and it popped out. Bearing inside the crank looked okay, washed it out, lubed and left it. The inner bearing race was split in two. Cleaned the shaft, pressed on the bearing, installed the lock washer, and pressed it into the bellhousing. Bolted bellhousing up to engine and installed the engine today. Started hooking up the wire's but ran out of steam, I'm tired. I should be able to finish it tomorrow. Now I'm getting excited, the lake is just around the corner (barring any unforseen catastrophes)
more to come....

El P - Thank You so much for your help!!!
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Mike"
 
"I have a AQ125A with a solex

"I have a AQ125A with a solex carburetor, is there a replacement caruretor that has a choke for my engine? I need to wait at the lanch ramp for the engine to warm up before I can put it in gear. I am getting lead thrown at me because I am blocking the ramp. Can someone let me know what the replacement carb is?"
 
"I don't think there is ev

"I don't think there is even a choke available. When you first launch at the dock, throttle up a bit to warm up. You should be able to disengage the shifter and just use the throttle. shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to warm up. By the time you park the trailer, you should be ready to go. Now I'm not talking 2000 rpm's. just about 1000 or so should do it. Any moment now, El P should be here."
 
"I do understand I could let t

"I do understand I could let the boat warm up while I put the trailer away, but the fisherman out west don't want me to clog up the ramp while I wait 5 to 10 minutes for the motor to warm up. I need a replacement carb with a choke. My motor starts right up but will not go until it is 180 degrees. Has anybody ever changed there solex carb to something that will drops in?"
 
"another update. SHE LIVES!!!

"another update. SHE LIVES!!! Got it running today, pur's like a kitten, no ugly sounds. Going to the lake saturday morning. Only problem I still have is it will not go into reverse real easy. That's a fix for another day. Again to all that have helped -
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Mike"
 
"If the fisherman can't wa

"If the fisherman can't wait - TOUGH! It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to warm up. If it keeps dying, I suggest you give it a tune-up and install the Pertronix electronic ignition like El P suggested. Happy boating!

Mike"
 
"Going to the lake without hav

"Going to the lake without having good brakes, Michael? Tsk, tsk...
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Check that the shift cable is well adjusted and it is not stiff. In case of doubt, replace it, it is a one-hour job and it is not expensive.

Have fun and be safe."
 
"I like to live on the wild si

"I like to live on the wild side...
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it's not the cable. It's in the locking pawl. The locking helmet(I think it's called) is not allowing it to go into reverse. Here is my take on it... when shifted into reverse, the rod that goes through, forces the helmet down and locks the outdrive from coming up. The helmet is not going down so the rod just hits it and keeps it from going into reverse. I can force it into reverse, but it doesn't lock. I'm assuming I need to take it apart and found out why. It will go into reverse, but not easy.

Mike"
 
"Just have a few issue to addr

"Just have a few issue to address.
No reverse - will work on that this week. Overheating - temp gauge started to climb above 200. slowed down and temp went down. When I used the earmuffs will running in my driveway, I plugged the secondary hole in the bottom of the drive. That plug was accidently left in while at the lake so I'm not sure if it trully overheats or if it was operator error
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. Going out again this weekend so I'll check.

Mike"
 
"Happy belated Fathers Day to

"Happy belated Fathers Day to all you fathers out there. Kids and I took the boat to the lake yesterday, what a great day. Kids had a blast. Still have a overheating issue, but I think I know what it is. When I was just crusin around (2000 rpm), it ran around 140, when I went over 4200 rpm, it started heating up 220 and rising, I would back the throttle down to 2000 rpm, it would cool right down. I think it is part 28 and 29 shown here:
http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1878&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,1862,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,1870,1886,1875,1877

When I removed the outdrive to replace the parts, I removed these so I would damage them. The connector was pretty worn out, but I put it back on anyway. So I think as soon as the boat starts to lift out of the water and exposes this part, it starts to suck air and kill the water intake, at least this is my take on it. What do you think?

Also, the reverse problem. When I got the lake and launched, I still had no reverse. Playing around all day, beaching, pull kids on tube and etc, I go to take off and on a whim, I decided to pull back on shifter to check, and what do you know I have reverse. I have no idea why, but reverse is working. Before I couldn't get the shifter to slide back into reverse, it kept binding, now, it slides back with no problem, so I'm going with it, it works, I'm not fixing it
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Mike"
 
"Just an update.... Had the bo

"Just an update.... Had the boat at the lake a couple of times since last post. I did order new parts to fix the overheating problem. I am also going to replace the temp gauge and re-wire the new one.

The AQ 125a/270 is doing great. What a dependable motor, outdrive combination.

What is a safe RPM to run the motor at? 4200, 4500 or 4800. Just wondering.

Thanks again for all the help.

Mike"
 
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