new cdi update regulator CDI-193-3408

Hello, everyone.I have seen the topic of the older unregulated cdi systems over charging sometimes up to 16+ volts.And i think it is getting to be more and more of a prob with the newer batteries not allowing voltage leakage.I havea 1970 60 hp I picked it up out of a barn it needed a lot of tlc And as the project went on and on with part after part all new fuel and carbs. New ele parts I get it up and runnin and she ran great exept for the hinderence to watch my volt gauge peg out in the red zone when i get the rpms up over 3500-4000 15+ volts then at wot 52-5500 rpms16-17+ volts not good.I am running the dual pergo switch with a wally world everstart max 27 not the maintnence free.I have that inline on the #2 on the pergo emergency motor start only unless i choise to run the switch on the 1-2 both but I do not.Now this spring i bought the autocraft marine batt this batt is main free this batt runs off #1 on pergo switch so the motor is charging well butt not to safe when i see 17 volts.so after a long study i realize the main free batt may be some of the problem.My remedy when out on the water and i see the volts go into the red zone i put on all my lights I have a set of small flood lights i hooked up last year and when i hit the toggo for them my vollts drop to normall even at wot the volts maintain at a safe 12+ volts.Butt to me this is a pain in the arss.So come spring i am going to put the wally world everstart maxx27-n in place of the new main free marine batt and have that one for emergency back up.Ok with all this said i still have a unregulated system off of the 9 amp stator going to the rectofier CDI has made a new rec- reg PART#193-3408 THECOST 100.00VS THE 200.00 FOR THERE OTHER ONES.Has anyone out there tryed this new part?Hopefully it will help many of us with these older cdi ing systems.I have looked on different sights to see this part from cdi butt not much luck finding info on it .Butt i spoke to cdi teck team and this is there newest part.In fact he said it really is not a retro fit the old rec with 3 wires comes off and this new reg-rec takes its place.

that rectifier will eventually go out running the maintenance free battery.....100 bucks seems a little high but i would go with it.....i dont have the specs on the recommended battery for that motor but its going to be hard to find.....i have been the route on that rectifier only system and the maintenance free batteries or gel batteries have a problem...you are correct in saying that there is no internal action taking place in the battery when it is charging and gets too high.........

After speaking to a cdi white hat in the teck suport he said that this new part was costom made to eliminate this common problem on the older unregulated outboards.But again I think it is key too still run a maintnece required batt vs the new main free type.I was hoping someone out there has used this new cdi-193-3408 reg-rec to get some feed back and see if there volt gauge stays within the 12-14 volts.And as you say it is hard to find any info on this cdi part being so new.I am in boston MA and the weather is a bit on the chill side to go out on the water.So come spring it will be my next project to do and by then there may be some reviews on it .So if any of you old school cats runing the old johnson try it out please let me no what you think.I look at it like this if I keep burning out the 35 doller rec then a cost of 100 dolar rec-reg then it will pay for its self in a season or two on the water and not have to use my orrs to get back to safe land.

papyson said:

that rectifier will eventually go out running the maintenance free battery.....100 bucks seems a little high but i would go with it.....i dont have the specs on the recommended battery for that motor but its going to be hard to find.....i have been the route on that rectifier only system and the maintenance free batteries or gel batteries have a problem...you are correct in saying that there is no internal action taking place in the battery when it is charging and gets too high.........

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I am very much confused by this term "Maintenance Free". Aren't all batteries labeled that now ... even the ones that are actually the Lead Acid type? I just bought a MAX-27 battery at Wal-Mart for the starter battery on my boat. I had the same battery before ...and haven't had a problem. But recently something burned out in my engine, i.e. power pack, rectifier, Timer Base, and Stator. My boat repair man does not know WHICH yet ... or if it's ALL the above. But he says it's ALL because of the battery I bought.

I have an electrical engineering background ... and I'm just now TRYING to figure out how these old boat motors (mine is a 1978 235) actually work electrically ... or SUPPOSED to work. The problems I'm having could turn out too expensive to consider and I may end up junking the boat / engine entirely (even though it's given me years of great boating).

Our first step is to put in the newer Regulated Rectifier .. and go from there. Any SUGGESTIONS!!??

48tony said:

After speaking to a cdi white hat in the teck suport he said that this new part was costom made to eliminate this common problem on the older unregulated outboards.But again I think it is key too still run a maintnece required batt vs the new main free type.I was hoping someone out there has used this new cdi-193-3408 reg-rec to get some feed back and see if there volt gauge stays within the 12-14 volts.And as you say it is hard to find any info on this cdi part being so new.I am in boston MA and the weather is a bit on the chill side to go out on the water.So come spring it will be my next project to do and by then there may be some reviews on it .So if any of you old school cats runing the old johnson try it out please let me no what you think.I look at it like this if I keep burning out the 35 doller rec then a cost of 100 dolar rec-reg then it will pay for its self in a season or two on the water and not have to use my orrs to get back to safe land.

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The question begs an answer: Why are you burning out the standard rectifier? They should not burn out unless run on open circuit or battery installed backwards. Heck, my own motor is 30 years old on the original rectifier. Yes it goes to 16+ volts. That's the nature of the beast. If it ever does blow, I will buy one of the regulated ones to treat the battery with more respect

Dorky you need a new mechanic to go with that battery!!

fdrgator...they will run indefinitely at 16 volts....that been my experience anyway...but some of them will peg a 17 volt meter...a rectifier may last 2 weeks or two years when that happens but it is going to fail...a rectifier is normally the only thing that goes kaput...the first indication of it failing is a tach that reads all over the place...then it completely stops working and you look at your voltmeter and the only thing there is the battery output..on all rectifier only engines that i know of the only purpose of the rectifier is to drive the tach and charge the battery...so there is no need to panic and ruin the trip when it fails...if the battery is in good shape you have many starts still in it and the rectifier failing has nothing to do with the running of the engine...

there is an in depth thread in here somewhere with all the theory etc on what is happening on maintenance free and gel batteries..but what it all boils down to is they have no internal discharge if they are overcharged...the old batteries do..

the mistake we all make is when we buy a boat battery we go buy the best we can afford..if we look at spec's on the required battery(owners manual) and bought the recommended battery we would be ok...they are almost impossible to find though...so we should buy a old style good battery that requires maintenance..

a motor with a regulator should put out 14.8 volts fdrgator..not 12-14 volts...if you put the boat in the water and get up and running it should go to 14.8 pretty quick...if it dont then you are starting out with a run down battery and its sucking up a charge....this is a no-no in my book...always start a trip with fully charged batteries...some of the rectifier only systems are only 6 amp and are designed to maintain a battery and not charge one from almost dead...he more current you draw the more stress you are putting on a rectifier and the more heat in the stator coil(s)... stators dont like heat...
and they cost 250-350 bucks and if the other side of the stator fails you are dead in the water...

papyson said:

a motor with a regulator should put out 14.8 volts fdrgator..not 12-14 volts...if you put the boat in the water and get up and running it should go to 14.8 pretty quick...if it dont then you are starting out with a run down battery and its sucking up a charge....this is a no-no in my book...always start a trip with fully charged batteries...some of the rectifier only systems are only 6 amp and are designed to maintain a battery and not charge one from almost dead...he more current you draw the more stress you are putting on a rectifier and the more heat in the stator coil(s)... stators dont like heat...
and they cost 250-350 bucks and if the other side of the stator fails you are dead in the water...

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?? Where did I say anything about a regulated system putting out 12-14 volts??

sorry..you didnt...was someone else

i got the names mixed up as i was scrolling the thread....chit happens when the wife comes in here yakking...

I received a CDI 193-3408 rectifier regulator and it had 5 wires. I have a 1985 70 Evinrude. Resistance reading of the 2 yellow stator wires measured 1.4 to 1.6 ohms. I started the engine and connected the meter directly to the stator on ac and got 30 volts idle and about 42 at wot. I connected the CDI rectifier/regulator with my battery reading 12Vdc exactly and it read right at 12.3Vdc at idle and over 12.7Vdc at wot. The battery was not fully charged and when I turned on the lights the voltage didn't drop at all. When I shut the engine off after running for only 2 minutes the battery read 12.16Vdc so it was charging the battery as well as running the lights. If the battery was charged it may have read well over 13Vdc at the battery while charging. I couldn't find a diagram for the new 5 wire rectifier/regulator I called CDI and the 5th wire being gray goes straight to the tach. The two yellow wires go to yellow on the stator. The black wire is ground or negative and red goes to the battery positive.

Make sure your battery,batteries are fully charged always, It will cause rectifier/regulator to run cooler, thus prolonging life of rectifier,stator,coils. Heat destroys electronics!