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Rebuilding 1986 454 Crusader

Interesting. I have not seen

Interesting. I have not seen this site before. Looks like they have every engine combo you could think of. I wonder how they got a 400Hp 454 to use less gas than a 330Hp version. Hmmmm.
 
They use higher compression pi

They use higher compression pistons and smaller intake heads.
The engine would run more efficient at lower RPM according to them.
 
"If they are using stock heads

"If they are using stock heads, they CAN'T get a 400HP version to use less fuel than a 330HP version when both are producing the same output power.

Every factory BBC I've had apart came with the "peanut port" oval heads. They claim to reman the heads and blocks so that isn't changing. Giving them the benefit of the doubt, the best they can do is change the cam to alter the stock torque/HP curves. I didn't see a 'savings' figure so I'd be leery of expecting a big change in economy.....freshing up an old tired engine should result in an improvement in fuel consumption....Think I'd ask for some "in-situ" data before writing a check. Asking for references and then checking up on them would be good, too. You can also check with any marine surveyors locally, to see what they have found."
 
"That is why I am posting, som

"That is why I am posting, some things they claim seem too good to be true.
This is the first time I am dealing with replacing engines and am trying to sort out which would be the best way to go.
More HP seems like a very nice idea, if the engines will consume about the same as the ones I have now, and am used to, I would be happy.
I am just hoping to find anyone that has had experience with this outfit and can verify their quality of product."
 
""The engine would run mor

""The engine would run more efficient at lower RPM according to them."

That's an interesting statement. With the same prop, the boat will run slower as well. So, quite possibly more mpg.
But, more to the point, less rpm means less windage loss inside the engine, so there is some benefit there. That's why cars typically do better hwy mpg as you increase the number of gears, and you get the rpms down at cruise. But in a boat? That internal windage loss is way down in the noise when you are asking 150 to 200hp at cruise. If you are asking 35 hp in a car at cruise, different story.
To even more confound this discussion, there is merit in running small displacement engines at WOT for best efficiency, due to what is called "pumping loss". Again, a consideration not easily transferred into a boat, short of diesel/electric systems."
 
"A motor will burn considerabl

"A motor will burn considerably more gas as the rpms go up.

I ran (in neutral) a GPH vs. RPM test once. Don't remember the exact figures, but the motor burnt at least 2 GPH all by itself at my cruising rpms (2,500). In gear it burns 6 GPH more, or 8 GPH.

Jeff"
 
"No that is not me. Very far f

"No that is not me. Very far from it.
I am trying to sort out my engine problem and if I were him I would know exactly what to do.
My engines are being very well maintained and are used year around.
I always check my oil and do an overall inspection before we head out and will do the same after we get back.
Motors were running smooth and flawless. Port side ran cooler than Starboard and thought that is unusual.
I expected trouble with the warmer engine but not so.
My Port side engine oil on stick showed the dredded coffee and a little oil spill under engine, easy to notice for me since I keep things immaculate spotless. Ofcourse I think head gasket but not really either. No unusual steam, smooth running, easy starting all spark plugs show normal.
I pumped out the oil mixture replaced the filter ran the motor for a few minutes thinking it will help reduce the moisture for the time being.
When I ran the engine for a few minutes I was hearing kind of a squeal near the bell housing. When I take the rubber plug off it sounds louder.
Something is up with that also.

Now I am thinking it may be a leaking gasket in the intake manifold and will be taking that off this weekend.

This is the first time in 5 years that my boat is disabled and I just can't stand it. I have to get it fixed. Resources in my area are scarce, so it all comes down on me and may be some forum help.

The engine rebuild is just an option I was looking into, but I still would prefer my old familiar engines, I have always liked the way they ran and they always start right up. They kind of seem like the relentless buffalo's in the back of the boat, very strong and no comlaints and all compliant.

This my story why I am here."
 
"Well with 150,000 (cough,

"Well with 150,000 (cough,cough) engines sold you would think someone here would have heard of them.

I need a pair of Gen IV 7.4s for an upcoming job and may call them. The prices seem OK although the freight from the west coast may be too high. I'm curious about that 7 yr warranty too. Most companies limit the warranty to a couple hundred bucks in labor and a replacement engine. Some of the aft cabin boats I repower take 30+ hours to replace the engine in and a couple hundred doesn't cut it if I have a bad one."
 
"The 7 years are nice but the

"The 7 years are nice but the 500 hours should come first, even with my current use patterns. I've requested copy of warranty statement and will share findings once reviewed."
 
"The email response was "p

"The email response was "prompt". The shipping figure for two BBC's was under $800 (east coast) which included returning the cores.

The warranty was pretty straight forward; "unique aspects" follow. Without registration (w/i 45 days of purchase) the 7 yrs/500 hours becomes 6 months. Oil seals and gaskets only have 6 months coverage. The labor coverage is at $55/hr per the factory OR an agreed to figure, ahead of any repairs. They want intakes torqued SEVEN times.

150000 units over 24 years averages over 500 units per month...bet the bulk were auto apps."
 
"That all sounds pretty good s

"That all sounds pretty good so far.
I did a search for "complaints US Engine" and came across some interesting cases, most of them older.
They may have improved since then."
 
What a concident. I also just

What a concident. I also just got done contacting them regarding my 454's. I was at first looking to repower with 8.1's but decided not to spend that much so now looking at remans.

Obvioulsy I was interested in more torque and HP so they recommended their 425 HP. When I told them I only had access to 89 octane they told me the 400 would then be the choice. They seem to standup guys and knowledgable. What does concern me is that I asked if they performed any dyno testing.I was told a long time ago but they really don't have anything documented. Without that how can anyone really know?

Interested to see comments on this or if anyone has any other alternatives.
Rick
 
"Apparently I misunderstood. I

"Apparently I misunderstood. I had some more questions from the fellows over at usengine and they told me 89 octane would be just fine with their 425 HP. They are confident they will provide more power and improved ecomony with a bit higher compression. They seemed very accomadating and responsive.

They have a couple options. They send me engines (long bolcks) and I send mine back to them, or I send them my complete engines they reman them and check out that everything is tuned and running properly, including carb setup."
 
"Rick,

When I was much more

"Rick,

When I was much more of a rider, we would take new Harley Davidson bikes and fly cut about .005 off the cyl. heads. This increase in compression made a small but almost noticible increase in mid range torque. Couple that with a mild cam and you actually could feel the change"
 
With increased compression com

With increased compression comes the need for higher octane. You can get 600 hp out of one if you want to run to the airport every time you need fuel (which I used to do).
 
"I was over to Raceway Park in

"I was over to Raceway Park in Englishtown, NJ a few months back and the fuel they sell for race cars was absurd...I think I remember $7.20/gal?? One thing about the higher octane...Almost every Harley guy I know would buy PREMIUM fuel thinking it made the bike run better... that .005 ran fine with regular gas at 87 octane. What kind of engine were you running Rick...Jet FUEL ?
"
 
"Not jet, just 108 octane gas.

"Not jet, just 108 octane gas. I used to do a lot of HP work in a previous life. We were never happy with .005. They were mostly big O/Bs and BB blower motors."
 
"Rick, Even my 22HP garden mo

"Rick, Even my 22HP garden mower runs better at .005 ! 108 octane ? Gee whiz, it kills me to pay $2.40 for heating oil...Regular street diesel sells for $2.69 lately

FYI... I am abandoning the idea of that Buddy Davis knock off"
 
$2.40 ?!?! - we really getting

$2.40 ?!?! - we really getting hosed down here. The 'cheap' guys want $2.90 and that's with the 'discount' you get from buying at least 150 gal. I started buying off-road (only semi-taxed) diesel for $2.65. Ditto on the ream job for the street oil - 20 cents more!
 
It's a buyers market Al.

It's a buyers market Al. Take your time and find what you want at the price you want. Let me know if I can help.
 
"Thanks Rick for posting some

"Thanks Rick for posting some more info regarding US Engine inc.
I am still hoping I don't have to rebuild my engine, at least not yet.
I had some guys from a shop come over to help me diagnose the problem.
All they did is took the spark plugs out and inspected each one of them. They claim from just looking at the spark plugs that no water has entered any of the cylinders. They told me it is not a head gasket problem and it must be the intake manifold gasket. If this were right I could do this myself with the engine in place.
Is there another way that I can test the intake manifold gasket for leaks?"
 
"Guessing you are asking about

"Guessing you are asking about coolant leaks with the intake? You can use a pressure tester on the heat exhanger if so equipped. You can use a vacuum gauge if looking for leaks in the induction system.

Also guessing the "coffee" reference to the oil is a cup with creamer added? Did you check the dipstick's indicated level to see if it was elevated before and after the change? If high, you may want to check the engine side of the oil cooler."
 
"Great!
Yes the oil looked li

"Great!
Yes the oil looked like coffee with too much creamer.
Yes I noticed the level being elevated when I changed the oil. I had sucked out all the oil/water mixture. I changed the filter and added new oil, one can at a time. Even when several quarts short of the recommended amount, the oil ended up past the full mark. This really stumped me.
Now you mentioned the oil cooler.
Now I remember when I bought the boat like 6 years ago the oil cooler on this engine had a crack. The former owner had it repaired/brazed and all was fine. The cause of the crack was freezing.
This makes me think now that the oil cooler may have been weakened interally, but held up for many years and hours.
I am thinking that this is a most likely cause.
I will let you know this week what I find.
Praise for your response!"
 
"If you have water in the oil

"If you have water in the oil it is best to get it out ASAP.

If you think it may be the cooler, you can bypass it using a union, and run it to warm things up.

FWIW, repairing any cooler because of freeze damage is false economy....now you have that tee shirt."
 
"I did get most of the oil mix

"I did get most of the oil mixture out and put new oil in. I did run the engine for a few min. to let it circulate. There is just less water in the oil at the moment.

I am going to see about it tomorrow.
I will let you know what I find out.

Thanks for the shirt!, I am wearing the mirror printed version so I can read it myself."
 
"I got the oil cooler off and

"I got the oil cooler off and took it home.
I put a nipple on the oil cooler inlet and put a plug on the outlet.
I hooked a hose on the nipple and attatched it to my compressor.
I sealed off the water inlet and outlet with a disposable glove finger and left a little loose dimple.
I pressurize the oil cooler with only a few pounds of pressure.
If the oil cooler were to leak it would have pushed out the latex dimple on the water inlet and outlet.
It didn't, so I am pretty sure, and regretful it is not the oil cooler problem.
Now I am going to take the intake manifold off."
 
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