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1970 95 johanson

W

wd40

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"I am still having trouble I a

"I am still having trouble I am the guy who motor ran fine with the hood off when hood is put on motor loads up and just about quits. / I installed a new exhaust boot and checked motor mounts I don't know what to do next, I am not sure if I have the carb synchronization right may be some one could explain it, I have a seloc manual, wish I had a omc manual I poured alot of water down back of cover as motor was running then quickly set cover on didn't help my think was to stop some of exhaust from getting into cover just to see if exhaust was my problem, I know water will just run out/ as soon as cover is set on maybe 2 sec. and motor will act up"
 
"Is this engine on the back of

"Is this engine on the back of a boat, semi enclosed in a container of sorts built into a boat, in a barrel? With the engine running, so you see any trace of exhaust smoke/fumes at the powerhead area?

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"I have the motor in a 55 gal

"I have the motor in a 55 gal drum in shop I do not see any exhaust fumes from power head area I also tucked rags around power head area just to see if motor ran any better with hood on / also with hood on when you speed it up to fast it loads up pretty bad then take hood off and it will pick back up, that is the way I have been adj. carb (just a little at a time) I have not taken high speed jet out don't want to burr it up, I cleaned it very good with carb cleaner and blew it out with air / I don' think there is any adj there jet is just screwed it tight, I also blew through it with my mouth and it is clear, thank you"
 
"That engine will not function

"That engine will not function properly in a barrel with the hood on. That scenario forces the exhaust fumes to be drawn directly into the carburetor intake.

Install it on a boat, then let us know what happens."
 
"you were right I put the moto

"you were right I put the motor on a boat and it ran perfect with the cover on I had to borrow the boat that is why it took me so long and have been busy, I would like to thank you for the help
mark edwards"
 
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