"Andrew, I have re read the sa
"Andrew, I have re read the saga. I was in error there are six nuts which screw on to six studs which extend from the gimbal. I made a visit to where i store everything. When you undid the 6 nut is there a space opened up between the contact face of the leg and the face of the gimbal? On my Bravo 3 this a surface size of say 9 X 8 inches. If there is a space you may try the wedge concept. BUT !!!! the top of my leg/ gimbal interface does not have any interference zone. The port and starbo sides have the change cable, water , gear and speedo. On my Bravo gimbal there is no real integrity past where the lower two studs are located. If you go the way of the wedge it would be one slight tap an each wedge [3 at least] at a time, attempting not to off center the gap if it does open up. The wider the tongue and less severe the angle of the wedge the better. You may have to continue cutting new wedges and increasing the angle to compensate so you do not hit any of what i have listed. Give the other restrictions. The wedge must be a weaker material than the metal of the leg. Can you go to a merc dealer/ wrecker / repairer to look at a leg seperated from the gimbal. Then you will know what you are up against.You want to be certain where you place those wedges. I still say fill up the boot with auto trans oil and let it sit. Then try the wedges. Have assumed the gimbal seal is intact. I hope the problem lies with the gimbal bearing seized on to the shaft. From what i can see it will be a nightmare if it is not. Sorry for my confusion. Still say spend the $5.00 dollars. My project boat is a Wellcraft Excalibur 47, two 496 HO with Bravo 3 X, been to close to a fire. My first Phantom Black."
"Andrew, I have re read the saga. I was in error there are six nuts which screw on to six studs which extend from the gimbal. I made a visit to where i store everything. When you undid the 6 nut is there a space opened up between the contact face of the leg and the face of the gimbal? On my Bravo 3 this a surface size of say 9 X 8 inches. If there is a space you may try the wedge concept. BUT !!!! the top of my leg/ gimbal interface does not have any interference zone. The port and starbo sides have the change cable, water , gear and speedo. On my Bravo gimbal there is no real integrity past where the lower two studs are located. If you go the way of the wedge it would be one slight tap an each wedge [3 at least] at a time, attempting not to off center the gap if it does open up. The wider the tongue and less severe the angle of the wedge the better. You may have to continue cutting new wedges and increasing the angle to compensate so you do not hit any of what i have listed. Give the other restrictions. The wedge must be a weaker material than the metal of the leg. Can you go to a merc dealer/ wrecker / repairer to look at a leg seperated from the gimbal. Then you will know what you are up against.You want to be certain where you place those wedges. I still say fill up the boot with auto trans oil and let it sit. Then try the wedges. Have assumed the gimbal seal is intact. I hope the problem lies with the gimbal bearing seized on to the shaft. From what i can see it will be a nightmare if it is not. Sorry for my confusion. Still say spend the $5.00 dollars. My project boat is a Wellcraft Excalibur 47, two 496 HO with Bravo 3 X, been to close to a fire. My first Phantom Black."