"Clean points with either lacq
"Clean points with either lacquer thinner or acetone, then set as follows.
(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)
Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubber portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.
NOTE: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.
Points are part number 580148.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:
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Checking a condenser requires test equipment. They're rather cheap, simply replace it. Part #580321 Prefered) or an alternative #581419.
Checking a coil properly also requires test equipment. However, if it's cracked anywhere, replace it. If not cracked, usually they're ok. Check the coil continuity as follows:
(Regular Magneto Coils - Continuity Test)
(J. Reeves)
Checking the continuity of the ignition coils....... Have the ohm meter set to High Ohms.
Remove the primary wire from points. Remove the coil ground wire. You do not want either of these wires touching anything.
Connect the black lead of a ohm meter to the spark plug boot terminal, then with the red ohm meter lead, touch the ground wire of the coil.
Then touch (still with the red lead) the primary wire. You should get a reading on both touches (contacts). If not, check the spring terminal inside the rubber boots of the spark plug wire.
If there is no continuity between the secondary circuit (spark plug) wire and the primary or ground, remove the coil from the armature plate, then check the continuity directly between the prong within the coil (prong that the plug wire connects to) and the primary and ground. Poor or no continuity of a coil (or plug wire) is one reason for weak spark, s/plug fouling, or no spark.
At cranking speed on that model (spark plug removed), the spark should jump 1/4" with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! DO NOT attempt to check the spark using a spark plug, screw driver, etc. No Spark tester? Buy one at any automotive parts type stores or build one as follows:
(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)
A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.
Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:
..........X1..........X2
.................X..(grd)
..........X3..........X4
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:
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Shut off is normally a grounding of the points via some lever connection when the throttle lever is turned all the way to the low rpm setting, BUT on many of those small hp engines, it's simply lowering the rpms to a point where the engine simply quits.
Use a Champion J6C spark plug, gapped at .030 .
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:
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And finally......
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)
Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.
Setting the high and low needle valves properly:
NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.
(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.
(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
