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1989 Johnson 110HP Overheating

"see if u can narrow down whic

"see if u can narrow down which hd(or both) is overheating..if one is running hotter,pull hd and insp for debris,or bad wtr deflectors,or bad hd gasket.If both are overheating...i would go back to wtr pump...there is a black rubber sleeve,that goes into wtr tube hole that must be there,if missing could,cause your prob.,thermo's installed right?..make sure all wtr pump imp blades are facing the correct way...intake screen clean/clear,wtr passage above screen in LU,clear?"
 
"Thanks jwb.

I measured bot

"Thanks jwb.

I measured both heads with an IR heat gun:
Head 1 87degc
Head 2 77degc

Sensors are wroking fine. Definite overheating problem.

Head covers are pulled and currently 'open for inspection'. Will be replacing wtr restrictors, all gaskets and stat assy. Confimred black rubber sleeve issitting where it should be. COnfirmed impellor blades are facing correct way.

How do I check if the intake screen/wtr passage in LU is clean and clear?

Best way to remove the wtr restrictors?

Mr Johnson."
 
"those temps.........at norm o

"those temps.........at norm oper temp,..are too cold....u have 143 degree thermo's..remove wtr pump and plate,look down into the area where the wht plastic screen is,too make sure its clear.if
u have rev thermo and press rel valves,that could poss cause your prob..I remove the wtr deflectors w/needle nose pliers,..a heavy pair."
 
"HI jwb.

THese temp reading

"HI jwb.

THese temp readings are in degC (not Farenheit). I live in Australia.

What is a rev thermo and press rel valve?

Can you possibly advise where I can locate these two items with a diagram please?

If you need to email a pici - [email protected]

Thanks
Mr Johnson"
 
"Thermostats are at about 65C.

"Thermostats are at about 65C.
Thermostats and pressure valves are behind the cover in the exhaust housing just below the cylinders. (Where the rubber hoses goes from cyl head)
Enclosed pic from BRP site:
http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=E
115700.gif
"
 
"ahhhh,i overlooked the 'C

"ahhhh,i overlooked the 'C'.....what i meant was,..if u have reversed the therm and press rel valves,put them in wrong.everything has to be in ITS place,and therm's have to be facing the right way...u said they had been replaced....it was just a thought that they may be in wrong."
 
thanks mate.

Where people r

thanks mate.

Where people refer to the High Pressure Relief valve - is this valve lcoated elsewhere - and not in thermostat assy.

I understand there a 2 poppet vlaves and 2 t-stats in the t-stat assy. Coudl the poppet valve and high pressure valve be the same thing?

Mr Johnson
 
"good point jwb.

Wen I pull

"good point jwb.

Wen I pulled the poppet valves out last week, I think one of them was inserted incorrectly as I extracted it. I should have made more of a mental note. Anyway, is the high pressure relief valve what you are referring to in this supplied schematic?

Mr Johnson"
 
"Also,

I have just spent 1.

"Also,

I have just spent 1.5 hours scratching salt build up from inside the head cover water galleries - what a pain! Reminds me of plaque on teeth. Anyway, galleries are now totally free of any salt build up.

My question is, is there a way to coat these galleries with something so that salt does not stick and build up in future?

Mr Johnson"
 
"there are 2 therm's and 2

"there are 2 therm's and 2 press rel valves(poppet valves) in therm housing...yep same thing.,there are none elsewhere."
 
"Cameron, here in the Northwes

"Cameron, here in the Northwest corner of the US, I buy a product called Salt Away. There is also another one called Salt Terminator. These two products are the same and what they are supposed to do is remove salt and salt build up from your motor while you flush it. They seem to work as advertised. If you don't have them in Australia, they are available on the internet."
 
"THnaks doug.

WIll keep a l

"THnaks doug.

WIll keep a lookout.

Now, I have removed my bottom leg and sprayed water with hose up water tube.

With head ocvers off I observed water coming out through top and bottom of head (on outside of cylinder walls). However, the flow appeared to be stronger for both bottom cylinders than the top cylinders. Is this normal. Also, I did not see any water coming out from where the t-stat assy sits (also removed). Is this normal?

Water also flowed strongly out of exhaust housing - is this normal? (I think this is where the tell tale flow of water comes out from)

Mr Johnson"
 
"Alos, Item 30 (Seal gearc

"Alos, Item 30 (Seal gearcase to housing) on Morten's helpful diagram above is warped and does not sit (seal) properly on flange.

Would this affect performance and/or overheating?

Cameron"
 
"And, The water intake screen

"And, The water intake screen on gearcase outer is missing some mesh strands - will this affect performance/overheating?

Cameron"
 
"There was an early mention ab

"There was an early mention about: Checked that impeller wings was right way.
Note that impellers have an 'aging problem' - they get hard.
More than 5 years - change no matter how nice it looks.
Often problems like what You mention is caused by the impellers loosing its ability to follow the ovality of the pumphousing at higher revs and thereby looses pressure and capacity. If one thermostat starts to open, it might not be enough water for the other cyl and You get one hot - one 'cold'.
I would reccomend to start with a new impeller before You keep on."
 
"Thanks Morten.

Water pump

"Thanks Morten.

Water pump kit rpelaced - as mentioned in the original startup post. Wings confirmed right way.

Are you able to advise on any of the observations noated below:
Observations: (With head covers off) -
- Water out through top and bottom of head (on outside of cylinder walls).
- Flow stronger for both bottom cylinders than the top cylinders.
- No water out from where the t-stat assy sits (also removed).
- Water out of exhaust housing.

Are these results normal for this test - if not please advise recommendations.


I also notice the following on bottom leg:
- Seal gearcase to housing is warped inwards and does not sit (seal) properly on flange.
- Water intake screen on gearcase outer is missing some plastic mesh strands


Will any/all of these observations affect performace and/or overheating?
If so, please advise on next steps.

And, best way to remove salt build up in between cylinder walls and head - besides screwdriver/scraper ?? (Salt removing liquid solution I can use?)

Regards"
 
"I might make following commen

"I might make following comments:
If seal '30' and 24' are not in good condition, exhaust may go into the pump and reduce capacity.
There should be no water comming out of exhaust/leg with heads removed (hoses to therm cover removed) and gearcase off with water hose attaced to tube '9'. If so the tube/seals/gaskets ?? are leaking (9,10,40,18,++).There might be a small 'spray' hole on the tube to cool the exhaust tube, but only 1 -2 mm in dia.
Disolving salt is a time-factor when running with fresh-water. Your problem might be aluminum oxide which looks alike, but is quite something else. This starts being a problem if the yellowish anodizing has been eaten through on the alu parts and raw alu is exposed to salt water. Stay off acids, just fresh water.
Normally when winterizing theese engines it is better to run in a barrel than with muffs. The unburnt 2-stroke oil that gets in the barrel will even be left as a thin film on the alu parts and prevent corrotion. The barrel does not look 'nice' but the cooling system feels much better!"
 
interesting points - thank Mor

interesting points - thank Morten.

I will replace Item 30 ASAP. ITem 24 - how to access it?

I remvoed the termostats assy/manifold and expected to see water come out through that area but did not see any. Should I have seen water come out of this area?

What is exhaust/leg and exhaust tube?

The salt build up I refer to is liek a hard caked on silt that con only be got off by a screwdriver. How/why did this cake form if I have been flushing regularay during long non use periods?

SHould I coat the head covers with oil beofre i re-install?

Cameron
 
Water came out of the tell tal

Water came out of the tell tale hole - which is on bottom right corner of Item 11. Is this OK still?

Cam
 
"Tell-tale hole, is ok. Water

"Tell-tale hole, is ok. Water excits out of the engine through the rubber hoses on the cylinder heads. Tell-tale is taken from the exhaust cover at back of the engine which should be water filled, and not from '11'. Has someone made a funny connection?Nippel 22 in cover 51 is 'normal'.
115733.gif
"
 
THanks for clarification Moret

THanks for clarification Moreton - You are spot on with your analysis!!

Yes Item 51 is where the tell tale is - I misread the first schematic you provided.

I remvoed the termostats assy/manifold and expected to see water come out through that area but did not see any. Should I have seen water come out of this area?

Cam
 
"Moerton, you mentioned that &

"Moerton, you mentioned that "water excits out of the engine through the rubber hoses on the cylinder heads."

I trust these are the water restrictor tubes. One thing i did notice during this water test today that now water was exiting from these tubes - only from top/bottom opening recesses at other end of cylinder.

I am planning to replce these restricors in any case, but could this observation be significant in my quest to understand why it is overhating at high RPM?

Cam"
 
"With heads/hoses removed, no

"With heads/hoses removed, no water in the thermostat housing.
As to Your question about '24' seal, just pull down the 'boot' 22. But if that is still 'stuck', not much risk the seal is dammaged, but if You pull it down, You most probably have to replace it!
Note that the water deflectors marked '10' at the cyl pic might have been deformed and in need of replacement if engine has been running hot (previously mentioned). If one or more is deformed, it will affect the way water passes through the cyliders."
 
"Water comes out of the engine

"Water comes out of the engine through hoses '38' and 77' from each cylinder head, down to thermostat/pressure valve housing and out! If no water in those hoses,BIIIIIG problem. They are no restrictors in any way. The 'restrictors' are the rubber sticks '10' that You will see pressed into the cooling channels between cylinders and outer wall. The only way to get to them is down with cylinder head, not only the water-jack covers ."
 
THanks Moreton.

Am I able t

THanks Moreton.

Am I able to use a pair of long nose plyers and extract these water tube restrictors from the top?

Are u sayinf I have to remove the entire powerhead or cylinder block to changeout these restrictor tubes?

Cam
 
Hi Moreton.

I have removed

Hi Moreton.

I have removed Items 28 (cylinder head) and 30 (cylinder head cover) - Are these sufficient items to have removed so I can extract the water tube restrictors?

Cam
 
Water tube restictors now out

Water tube restictors now out - thanks.

what should i be looking at/for when restrictors are out?

Cam
 
"I still cannot understand why

"I still cannot understand why/how these defelctors can affect the way water passes through the cyliders. From what I saw yesterday, water happily flows out from the top and bottom opeinings of each cylinder...

Cam"
 
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