First thing to do is test your spark. It should jump a 7/16 gap. Use a spark tester with a moveable gap, not just holding the plug against the motor.
These old motors have to be turning over at more than 300 rpm before they will generate spark.
The bulb should get tight when you pump it up before you start it. Once the engine is running the bulb won't be as firm. If it loses firmness before you start the motor, it probably has a bad check valve in the bulb
It will be a minute before I have time to remove the cylinder heads.
If it makes any difference, I use Johnson engine tuner once a year. Compression is between 112 and 118 on all cylinders.
Here's what I have tried:
Replaced entire water pump kit w/ new impellor
Replaced thermostats and poppit valves
Removed cylinder heads and replaced water diverters
Forced high pressure water through copper tube
Cleared small hole in thermostat housing
Notched the poppit valves
It will run at...
If the control boxes are compatible that would be the way to go. If not, it's really easy to add a kill switch to your dash. I know in Texas they are required by law.
I have an older control box also, so I went the dashboard route. Took about 20 minutes.
I replaced my impeller. I slid the lower unit in most of the way, but felt a slight bind. I pulled it back down and the o-ring at the top of the driveshaft is gone.
I tried lowering the engine but nothing fell out. I can't get a light bright enough to see that far up in that opening. I need help...
I have replaced the water diverters. Cleaned the passages around the heads.
Installed a new water pump and impellor.
The thermostats we're replaced last year.
The motor will run for hours at rpms under 4200. At WOT after 4 or 5 minutes the horn goes off.
1990 Johnson 90 hp. Pulled the cover off the water pump. When I pulled the impellor cup the impellor stayed on the drive shaft and I can't seem to budge it. I sprayed a little pb blaster and tried a small amount of heat (didn't want to melt the rubber. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.
My tilt-n-trim works fine going up but does not want to go down. As long as it doesn't go very far up it will come down.
But if I go more than about 45 degrees, the motor sounds like it is trying to lower it but no movement.
If I use the manual release it will come down.
I have tried greasing...
Trim portion seems to work fine both directions. But when it gets to the tilt part of travel going up it sometimes almost sounds crunchy. It went up, but didn't want to come back down. Pressing on the motor while running the down switch got it moving.
I realized that I asked a question on an old thread, so I am reposting here.
The new fuel tanks with one way vents swell up when it gets hot (and its really hot down here in Texas a lot).
Does that put excess pressure on the fuel diaphragm?