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Bringing 18 HP fastwin back to life

N

Nucad

Regular Contributor
I was the last guy to drive this boat 20 plus years ago. At the time it was leaking a stream of water out to the side of the boat.(gasket? Water pump?) It ran great otherwise. Now My friend who owned it has let me take it over. It has been stored on it's side for twenty plus years. Seems to still have good compression, the cosmetics are very good. I pulled the bottom drain and some water came out followed by very goopy looking oil. I'd like to at least tear this apart and see if it is salvageable. Willing to put in the time. Just bought the manual tonight. Hopefully you don't need special tools to take it apart. Any tips on where to start with this project appreciated. This is my first outboard. I have rebuilt a few car engines.

Tia
 
First thing is a visual check. Any sign of overheating, such as discolored paint? Then a compression test to see if you have anything worth messing with. Then lower unit oil check, which you have already done (failed). If you decide to proceed, pull the flywheel. It almost certainly needs new coils. Of course you will have to deal with that lower unit and a complete service/cleaning of the entire fuel system. A worthy project, as those were great motors.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have still not brought myself up to speed on exactly how the drive system works. Is the only part immersed in an oil bath the bottom part where the power takes a right angle turn? What lubricates the shaft at the top of the drive housing? Grease? The paint looks practically new under the cover and is in excellent overall good shape on the rest of the engine. Faded in the middle a bit. Quite a positive hearing how this was a very well regarded motor back in the day. Just a side note...I also inherited a striken Yamaha 2 cycle 20 HP. Appears about the same size. That one overheated from what I am told. Will do a compression test on both units. How do you rate these?
 
The gears and bearings in the lower unit gearcase are lubricated by the oil contained within. Should be full of 80-90 weight outboard gear oil--not water. The oil that you put in the gas lubricates the engine at the top.
 
Ok, makes sense. Probably good that this motor has plain bearings vs roller bearings for how long it has been laid up. Looking forward to seeing inside the drive unit. I think I will buy a borescope as my new tool to celebrate.
 
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I suppose the best way to do that would be to remove the carb and spray? The only number I have found so far on the unit is C0065442 on the freeze plug.
 
valvebounce said:
I've got a 1963 model,just changed the head gasket.They are a great motor and built like a tank.
Click to expand...
I enjoyed seeing how it was built and certainly has nice parts. I also inherited a 20 HP Yamaha two stroke that is suspect in condition. I got the Fastwin running last fall, but not running right. It is a rocket though when powering a tin boat. Hopefully running well this summer.
 
I blew the headgasket by both of us in the boat going forward over the bow messing about with the anchor.
It lifted the stern and the water intake out of the water.The motor was idleing,and it overheated,and the head gasket blew.
I suspect the impeller might have got damaged.
 
Nucad said:
I suppose the best way to do that would be to remove the carb and spray? The only number I have found so far on the unit is C0065442 on the freeze plug.
Click to expand...

There should be a small metal plate on the port (left) transom bracket which would have the model & serial number imprinted. The number to be found would be the "Model" number that indicates the year, hp, make, etc etc.
 
It's well worth stripping the jets out of the carb and spraying everything with carb cleaner.
With the carb off and the bowl turn the carb upside down and check the float is parallel to body.
This is what regulates the amount of fuel in the bowl.
The little cut off pin controls the fuel flow.These can stick and cause the carb to flood.
 
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