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Have a small raker right here.-----Remove prop nut and washer to read the numbers.
I hope not---I doubt that is a " grade 8 " bolt in there.
Good job! I never would have had the patients to do that... I probably would have just sealed up the hole and ran it haha
I just rewired my 110, it was actually fairly easy and straight forward. Just make sure you seal everything up, otherwise you'll be doing it again... I soldered and used self sealing shrink wrap on all connections. Takes more time than a crimp connection but it looks better and will last longer.
I have gotten my "T" shirt more than once over the years for this broken bolt/screws snapped in engine blocks and always managed to get them removed, however this one kicked my behind!Like Racerone says,aluminium oxide is the culprit.It wont respond to releasing agents.
My first consideration now,when removing a stud/bolt,is the fact that 50% steel to aluminium studs will snap off.
Heating the aluminium casing seems to be the only answer.
I have found it better to use heat straight off,rather than chewing up the stud/bolt,which is where you are at at the moment.(I've got the "T" shirt)Haha
I have gotten my "T" shirt more than once over the years for this broken bolt/screws snapped in engine blocks and always managed to get them removed, however this one kicked my behind!
It done now and put back together and restarted last night about 8pm
All is good so far��