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This link gives you a better picture of the set up you're looking for.
http://www.ase-supply.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/sp_marine.pdf
Thank you this is very helpful!!!
You are welcome!
I understand all of you post except for this part below... I thought the acr distributed the alternator output to both banks for charging.
That is correct. An ACR or VSR does just that once the voltage reaches 13.2 +/- . When the voltage drops, the contacts open.Ricardo said:"You can also use a BlueSea 7622 ML ACR to combine battery banks during cranking."
However, the 7622 ML does a bit more.
How does it combine banks during cranking?
Go to the BlueSea website, and find the 7622 ML.
You should see the spec sheet of which will explain the options.
I thought that was done with the emergency momentary parallel switch I have on my dash.
That works also. I have this system as well.
There is one issue with this;
Let's say that the momentary parallel switch (a solenoid switch) is powered from the helm.
The helm is powered via the hull harness.
The hull harness power is dependent upom the HLBB.
If the HLBB is the low voltage bank, it may not offer enough voltage to operate the solenoid.
In my schematic, I have shown a means of manually combining (using both MBSSs) for such an event.
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This thread is perfect for what I am trying to do on my boat. I have a 1987 37ft Silverton with the wiring torn out right now. My boat was wires very similar to what you mentioned with only one difference I can tell that I have a Bank #1 DC panel running off the Port Engine and a Bank #2 panel running off of the Starboard engine.
See below. That would help me understand your scenario.
I was planning to do a three battery setup with two ACRs but I like your diagram a bit better as its fewer parts (one less ACR) and I already have two perko MBSS.
I would ditch the Perko MBSSs...... The contacts are too small and the contact spring pressure is weak.
My question is on the parallel solenoid that is in my boat currently. Can / Should I just remove that and cap the wires coming from the switch at the helm if I opt to use your two battery diagram attached above? It makes sense that with a low voltage situation the switch may not work anyway.
Your call on that.
Although a bit more complex, you could power the momentary switch from each bank using diodes for separation.
This way the bank with the higher voltage will operate the solenoid.
Is it safe to assume that I should move the main Bank #1 Wire feed over to the new HLBB as they currently come from each individual battery?
I could make a new diagram but my plans at this point were to more or less copy your diagram.
What would be a suitable replacement for the perko?
BlueSea offers a good unit.
My personal preference is the old black Cole Hersee M705 MBSS.
While these are old school, they are extremely well built.
They have an O-ring sealed removable rear cover that offers access to the contact area for checking/cleaning, etc.
Here is a later version.... similar to the M705.
You can see how the rear cover can be removed.
Based on your diagram wiring up the parallel switch at the helm seems redundant if I can combine the batteries manually using the MBSS. I’d rather just eliminate that switch from my dash and just seems out of date anyway.
That works also.
However, with a momentary helm switch and the combing solenoid, we can combine banks immediately in the event of time constraints.
My original plan was to have a dedicated cranking battery for each engine and one house bank. This scenario however requires more switches and ACRs.
If your engines fire easily and quickly, there is no reason why you cannot use the HLBB for the Starboard Engine to crank on.
This reduces your battery banks down to only 2.