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1998 Volvo Penta 50 GL will not restart

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full_throttle

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"My boat started up and ran fi

"My boat started up and ran fine across he lake for 25-30 minutes but will not restart after I shut it off. Herre is what I checked:
1. water separator is clear
2. tank has fresh fuel
3. carb line and screen is clear
4. all wires connected
5. trim guage is broke (indicates all the way up)
6. disconnected fuel line, put it in a clear bottle and cranked over engine (fuel came out)
7. distributor cap looks ok
8. batteries are charged"
 
I checked the coil as noted an

I checked the coil as noted and get .3 volts. The battery checked at 12.57 volts. I put a test between the spark plug and wire and seem to get some spark.
 
"You should be getting about 1

"You should be getting about 12V between the + of the coil and ground. If not, and for test purposes, run a wire from the + to the coil to the + of the battery and try to start. If it starts, the problem is between the ignition switch and the coil. If it does not start, the problem should be either coil or distributor or ignition wires.

If th engine starts, don't forget to remove the jumper or the engine won't stop when you turn the ignition or the battery power off."
 
Thanks for the information.

Thanks for the information.

Is there a way to test the ignition swtich or coil other than replace one at a time?

Could this have any impact on one of these- the tilt gauge does not work; the white wire was broke at the outdrive connection so I spliced a piece in between; it still did not work;

Any chance that I may have caused a short?
 
I ran a jumper from the batter

I ran a jumper from the battery to the coil and it started right up and kept running as you indicated.

Does this mean the problem is not the ign switch or coil but maybe a fuse between the two?

Any idea where I can get a trim/tilt guage from internet?
 
"It could also be the neutral

"It could also be the neutral safety switch if you have one installed, or a defective ballast resistor, or broken wire/rusty or loose connection."
 
The neutral safety switch is o

The neutral safety switch is ok. By-passed kill switch as well. I get power at the ign switch in off position and with key on.

I have a seloc manual and it references a 20 amp fuse between ignition switch and main cable connector. I don't see one anywhere.

Where is the ballast resistor? What is it's function?
 
"The ballast resistor is being

"The ballast resistor is being used to limit the current throug the points, but since you have a 1998 engine you have electronic ignition and that will not apply in your case."
 
Any thoughts on the 20 amp fus

Any thoughts on the 20 amp fuse reference in the manual?

Anything else that I can check to determine reason it will not start? Could he coil be bad?
 
"The coil is good if the engin

"The coil is good if the engine started with a jumper, so your problem is that there are no 12V arriving to the + of the coil. You just have to find where the circuit is interrupted. According to Seloc there are no fuses between the ignition switch and the coil, but there is a 50 A breaker (resettable) between the starter solenoid and the ignition switch and further there is a regular 20 Amp fuse before the ignition switch. And according to the owner's manual for the 5.0 GL (downloadable from http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/na/en-us/marineengines/pub_search/ ), which does not agree with Seloc regarding the existence of a 20A fuse, the fuses are located on the starboard side of the engine (there is even a sketch depicting their function and the exact location).

I hope now you have enough information to find and resolve the problem."
 
I found and fixed the problem

I found and fixed the problem after contacting a local Volvo Penta dealer today. The brass pins in the main wiring harness at the engine connection over time had closed shut and were not making contact. I opened them slightly and sprayed some CRC on the contacts. The engine started right up. Hopefully this had something to do with the tach reading higher than normal then moving back to normal the day it would not start.

I really appreciate your persistence and help with this matter. I like fixing these things and saving time and money from not having to take it to a dealer. I will use the link to lcate the 20 amp fuse.
 
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