1983 Bayliner Capri 19b volvo io cables amp other problems

"Got it in the water to check

"Got it in the water to check out. Not shifting. Shift cable is HISTORY! I am not very familiar with ordering cables. Overall length is something near 13' the housing is 12 ft. Should I order 13' or 12' cable? Not sure what type to order but I'm thinking it looks most like a Universal 3300 teleflex. Eventhough I'll be using it in freshwater I'd rather order the stainless steel cables. Any help out there?

This old clunker has the usual bad electrical connections. Used an old Ford relay to replace the starter slave relay. Trim was working but now it's not.. will have to figure that one out. Manifold is leaking water...thinking it has a brass plug in the bottom, any tips on that? Will I have to remove the manifold to replace it? Any quick fixes anyone knows of? Is there a way to pressure test the manifold? I'm sure hoping it's not a cracked manifold...went thru all that with mercruisers.
Safety neutral switch on controls intermittently works... any tips to get it working dependably? Or is it someting I've just got to replace?

The zinc ring behind the prop appears to be heavily eroded... anyone got a source for a replacement?"

"Manifold is probably toast co

"Manifold is probably toast considering the shape that the boat sounds like it is in. I would bet it is clogged up which is why it is leaking. Could take it to a radiator shop and have it dropped in acid, but it could cause perforations in the manifold, which would make it leak worse than it is now. On the other stuff, I am not sure, so I will leave that for other, more experienced persons (El)."

"1) Remove your old cable

"1) Remove your old cable and replace it with one of the same dimensions as the one you have. Check in the sleeve, they should be stampend at one of the ends. Then go to a reputable marine shop to get a good replacement.

2) Don't argue with the manifolds, especially when you don't know their history. Replace manifolds and risers, have peace of mind and lower your blood pressure.

3) If the safety neutral swith works intermittently, it is probably worn out. Get a new one; or even consider replacing the control for a new one if the condition is questionable.

4) Regarding the zinc anode, just replace it, they are not expensive and you can get Sierra replacements (check the link under "anodes").

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/sierra_parts/8024/catalog.html?[url]http://www.mari neengine.com/parts/sierra_parts/8024/volvo_penta.html[/url]

I'm sorry to say that for the series of problems you are describing I only know of one solution: renew the worn stuff, so that you know you have reliable parts installed. I have done that in my own boats and I know it is not cheap, but I think it is worth investing in safety and peace of mind. If you renew the bad parts with new or rebuilt ones, you know what you have. If you try to go cheap, you will always be taking your chances.

Remember that, unfortunately, BOAT is a acronym for Bring Out Another Thousand. "

"Thanks. I was FINALLY able t

"Thanks. I was FINALLY able to decipher the numbers on the cable. It is measured by the overall length of the whole cable, not the housing. Apparently some are stamped with numbers which are "inches" and some brands are stamped with numbers which are "feet"... this one was 0156...13 feet. My wholesale distributor didn't have the stainless steel cables in stock so I got the "el cheap-o" so I can get it in the water PDQ. Once I get the basic mechanical stuff ironed out then I'll replace the throttle cable and get to work on the upholstery, new seats, and fiberglass repairs on the interior. The exterior is fine except it needs a good polishing and could use a clear coat.

I got the cable in and adjusted with little problem. The steering wheel was rotten and broke when I pulled on it...so I got a new steering wheel and am now having a fit trying to get this old one off without tearing up the steering control. I've got some PB squirted on it and have tried screwing the nut out to the end of the shaft then hitting it with a big hammer while pulling on what's left of the steering wheel. So far it won't budge and I can't figure out how to get a steering wheel puller on it...gotta get another look at it."