View Full Version : 22b Shepherd Engine Removal
02-13-2003, 05:08 PM
" Does anybody know the proper way to remove the engine from a 22' Shepherd? I have the inline 6 Chrysler Crown with the reverse gear and the V-drive. Last night I was able to remove the engine with the reverse gear and V-drive attached but it was tough. I hooked a chain on the lifting eye and then moved the engine forward until the chain touched the forward edge of the engine hatch and blocked it in place. I disconnected the chain and hooked it back up to the lifting eye, passing the chain forward of the bulkhead between the engine hatch and the back of the rear seats. I cut a 2 x 6 to span the hatch opening and wedged it front to back to prevent damaging the bulkhead and I placed a lifejacket between the bulkhead and the chain. I then gently raised the engine so it slid forward on the stringers. Once the engine was clear of the bulkhead I was home free. Whew!
I do have the engine manual but it doesn't show my exact configuration of engine, reverse gear, and V-drive. With the reverse gear and V-drive removed the engine will fit through the hatch laterally, so I suspect that's the right way to do it, but I didn't want to get over my head by removing the reverse gear and V-drive, because I was concerned about meshing gears properly, etc.
Any suggestions about a better way to put the engine back in?? "
" Depending on space available and lifting capacities, you may want to remove rev gear and V drive from package to allow for easier handling. Dont worry about meshing on reassembly as most marine gears are splined and if alignment is correct, they will slip right back in. Maybe some one out there has done this exact job. If you still have questions, post another ?. Good luck and post your results. Kim "
02-14-2003, 01:38 PM
Thanks for your reply. Yes if I had removed the reverse gear and v-drive the engine would have fit sideways through the hatch. My manual doesn't show it but I presume there's a splined shaft protruding from the back of the engine and the reverse gear connects to that? Is there anything else I have to worry about?
" Actually the reverse gear has the shaft and that slips into the drive plate on the engine, which is now hidden by the bell housing or adaptor plate. Just mark all bolts carefully as some are different lenths, hardness, etc. also on disassembly use lots of WD 40 or equal, keep a few rolls of paper towels or shop wipes handy, a camera to take pix of how things looked before, a notebook for notes and reminders. On reassembly, keep things nasty neat and clean, use never-sieze on splines, etc (for easy disassembly next time, and break out the torque specs on any thing you put back together. Always use new gaskets, and where needed gasket cement or spray tack (this is a spray can of low strenth adhesive to hold gaskets in place until seated) Good luck, keep us posted and ask questions anytime. Kim "
02-18-2003, 01:38 PM
" Thanks for the advice Kim. I actually read your last post after I had everything apart and it didn't occur to me that the bolts might be different strengths. I made note of the lengths but not the strengths. Any idea where the higher strength ones should go? Should I just replace the weaker bolts with stronger bolts? Out of interest, why would they have used different strength bolts to begin with? It's not like they need to shear at a certain stress level like shear pins in an OB.
I have another question. You say to use new gaskets, but if they're available I can't find them. I took the old ones off without tearing them so is it acceptable to reuse them if I put gasket goop on both faces? Which gasket goop would you suggest? I'm in Canada but we have access to pretty much everything you have (I'm assuming you're in the US). "
" As far as the strenth of the bolts,I think someone with more experience or an engineering degree should answer, but heres my thoughts any way. Obviously stronger bolts are used where needed to aviod stretching, breakage, etc. I think weaker bolts are used in weaker materials so the bolt breaks before the casting does. Make sense?If you cannot obtain or make new gaskets,try some spray gasket cement to hold gaskets in place and help seal things. If the gasket is really chowdered, try some of the heavier silicone gasket goops. Good luck, Kim "
02-18-2003, 05:10 PM
Thanks again Kim. I've thought of another question: I took out the frost plugs so I could flush out the rust. I've bought new plugs but I'm not sure how to put them back in. Are they just friction fit or do I have to use some kind of sealant?
" Frost plugs are friction fit. If this is for the boat, make sure they are brass , as the tin ones go south very quickly. There is a tool that removes and installs frost plugs, but we always used a socket that was slightly smaller than the inside of the plug and a good tap or two. Make sure edges of block openening are clean. Kim "
03-06-2006, 08:44 PM
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