Alternator issue 2002 225 h

"I have a bf225hp 2002 , recently had red mil light come on next to battery sign. I checked batterys ended up changing one of the batterys.
went out on second trip since and mil light came on and motor would not turn low voltage. So heres my question
1. Will a local anternator/starter shop test my marine alternator ? I figure they will but was curious if anyone else had experience

2. shop manaul states to short blue/white connector to test Mil ? Really not sure how you would do this.

3. what is the 4p connector on bottom of alternator for ? I am assuming its what sends signial to Mil light"

one other scenerio is when I w

one other scenerio is when I would rev engine or run on plane mil alarm would go off thats why I feel its alternator

yes local repair place will te

yes local repair place will test for free

i bet you have a bad battery or voltage regulator

"A good local alternator shop

"A good local alternator shop should be able to test it. If you have the service manual any good outboard mechanic can follow the directions to check the alternator while it is on the engine.

I would not worry about testing your mil...it lights...not much more you can check there.

If you have a volt meter in the dash, you can turn the key switch on and see what the voltage is. Should be about 12 volts. After you start the engine, the meter should read around 14 volts. If not, you definitely have a charging problem.

The four pin connector has wires that go to the key switch, a 10 amp fuse, the mil, and the cpu.

The problem can be the alternator, wiring or fuses.

You may want to check the fuses before you take the alternator off. Check pages 86 and 87 of your manual. If you do not have an owner's manual, you can download one for free from Honda http://marine.honda.com/pdf/manuals/31ZY2600.pdf

Especially check the 150amp one as shown on page 87. There should be spares for these fuses in the fuse covers.

If the mil light goes out for at least a short time, your voltage regulator in the alternator is probably shot."

"thanks guys going to take alt

"thanks guys going to take alternator to get tested today, already took off last night and planned to take to shop to get tested. I will reply back with outcome I really thing its the volt regulator from what was said here due to fact while running higher rpm mil turns off"

"update,
took to alternator s

"update,
took to alternator shop ran 12-14 volts but when he put a load shut down no amps. I left with them they are going to break down and check brushes etc..


HERES ANOTHER one ?
other motor mil battery lights stays on batterys are one year old going to trickle charge them and have batterys tested then if they test okay going to get that Alternator tested also both motors have 1000 hrs on them. does anyone think that letting boat sit for month and half cold fla weather might of drained batterys ? seems weird both sets set of mil lights around same time ? any comment on suggestions"

"What I see with charging syst

"What I see with charging systems and electrical systems in general is that they pretty much go ignored until problems start to arise. The thing to keep in mind when you think about maintenance is that poor connections create resistance in a circuit and resistance becomes a parasitic load within that circuit. In the case of an alternator, it has to overcome any additional resistance before it can begin charging the battery which simply means it has to work harder to do it's job.

You can define a poor connection as a loose terminal or eyelet or it can be seemingly tight but be corroded. Broken wires from flex present resistance and can be hard to spot. I routinely do voltage drop tests on charging and starting circuits to identify any unwanted resistance. This is an easy test to perform if you own a decent digital multimeter.

Also keep in mind that an alternator will only efficiently charge a battery that is in good shape to begin with. Since an alternator has no residual magnetism it needs to see battery voltage on the order of 12 volts to create a magnetic field and begin charging at the rate of approximately 13.5 to 14.0 volts.

Also, the engine and all of your electronics are actually being powered by the alternator while it is, at the same time, trying to charge your battery. What many owners don't understand is that the battery is just there as a storage device to start the process. After start up, the alternator does all the work and if it encounters too much resistance in the form of bad or dirty connections, OR, unreasonable circuit loads from too many devices requiring power, it can't possibly charge the battery efficiently.

Sorry about the wordy response but all I guess that I'm trying to convey is...clean those battery, starter and charging connections. A small amount of time and a stainless steel brush will save you a lot of trouble and maybe even an alternator."

"okay here where we are picked

"okay here where we are picked up one alternator and tech said oil all in brushes etc. I know what it was Corrision x that I sprayed all over engine and electical componets . I thought it was acceptable to use on alternator nope !!!
dropped other alternator off pick up today, battery light is still on mil, so going to charge battery and hope new bad is not bad now"

"Not having an exploded view o

"Not having an exploded view of your alternator I can't say with total authority how it's constructed but I would be VERY surprised to learn that it had brushes.

Modern alternators are not typically made with brushes as the current carrying windings are the stationary windings and the voltage is rectified to DC with banks of diodes. Usually they utilize what are called "slip rings" to supply the relatively small field current to the rotor. Although, your mechanic may have just called them brushes to simplify the explanation.

It would make sense if that mechanism got a coating of any type of insulation material on it that it might not conduct as it should."

"okay last post on this issue

"okay last post on this issue Just picked up other alternator and shop replaced all inside parts on both. He said has oil residue on brushes,rotors etc... deceided since I went this far to take all batteries to be checked as well.
Turned out the brand new battery that I bought last month had a bad cell switched that out and all other batteries checked out okay. Also think my home charger needs replaced as well.I also decided to go ahead and put a new end on one of the cables because it had a broken gap.
So 160.00 later think we are back on the water going to water test her tommorrow. THANKS for all the imput it helped reassure me on trouble shooting issue"

yes

i have seen corrosion x

yes

i have seen corrosion x eat alternator bearings also!!!

you not supposed to spray it on any electrical parts

"thought I would follow up on

"thought I would follow up on water test, took boat out last week or so and charging system is running awesome !!! volt meter on dash use to register 10-1 now registers almost 12-14 much better and all mil lights gone ready for season !!!! thanks all for imput"