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200 rudefuel pump rebuild

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bassmaster59

Regular Contributor
"Hey guy's,been awhile, I

"Hey guy's,been awhile, I took a break from working on it so I could fish & refresh my thinking(limited ability on boat motors). I have been cking & can't find a fuel pump rebuild kit for my motor(s/n-ve200sleid). Any ideas? thanks, jeff"
 
"if u r mixing ur fuel,..its a

"if u r mixing ur fuel,..its a nice kit,if u r wanting to stay on the vro/oms oiling system,i dont recommend the kit,but a new complete pump."
 
"the pump kit part number,is

"the pump kit part number,is not listed in parts,however i know its in my parts and acc book...if u cant find it this wk-end,i'll be glad to look it up for u,just clk on my name,and send me an email,goes straight to shop..i'll be there tues...u might also do a search on this site,in the parts."
 
"thanks,jwb I looked in marine

"thanks,jwb I looked in marineengine,iboats,&evinrude sites. there arn't any kits listed. I also called the local evinrude dealer & they said there wasn't a kit available from evinrude. I mix my fuel,the vro oil side is disconnected. I just wanted to see if there was a screen or filter inside the pump that might need to be cleaned & check the diaphram to make sure it's ok. Would I need new gaskets & such for that? Thanks, jeff"
 
"those parts ARE available,...

"those parts ARE available,....in fact,they may very well have done away w the 'kit'...w/all components ,i rem i had to list it individually,for someone on here,right outa my 09 book...i'll look,first thing tues morning..."
 
"jwb, I was wondering if you e

"jwb, I was wondering if you ever came across a list of parts or a kit for my 91 200 hp. I can find parts for all the smaller engines,but not the larger ones like mine. Am I stuck with having to buy a new pump if mine is shot? thanks, jeff"
 
"pulled fuel tank. no 90 degre

"pulled fuel tank. no 90 degree bend or screen on end of suction tube(pic in omc fac. manual shows this), just straight tube with a angle cut on the end of it. I replaced my nmna? approved fuel lines a while back with high pressure, alcohol resistant ones. I noticed they are easily compressed by hand,I also installed a marine screw on fuel water seperator. After doing this I noticed my primer bulb would collapse at higher rpm.cked vents,suction tube & everything seems ok, no obstructions. I thought I might try a diesel water seperator to allow more flow. I suppose my pump is pulling enough vacuum to collapse the primer bulb.any thoughts? thanks for checking in, jeff"
 
"if ur primer bulb,is collapsi

"if ur primer bulb,is collapsing,u def have a fuel restriction,and dont for get about,..the primer bulb,as a potential problem."
 
"all nipples are 3/8 & lin

"all nipples are 3/8 & lines are 3/8. no restrictions, except maybe in the marine fuel water seperator or the softer high pressure injection fuel lines. guess I need to ck the vacuum through the system like the manual describes it.maybe narrow down to what is really restricting the fuel flow.do you think the ethanol will hurt the original nmna? approved fuel lines? they look good, except maybe a little stiff. they are really clean inside where I can see with a light in the end of the line. thanks jwb"
 
"the bulb primer wasn't co

"the bulb primer wasn't collapsing until I put the water seperator on, that's why I was wondering if a diesel water seperator might be better for allowing the fuel to pass while trapping the water."
 
"no,those have been inst on lg

"no,those have been inst on lg v-6 v-8 engines for years,....maybe there is a prob,w/that filter,or the top part,maybe a piece of flashing or such,i'd pull it and ck,....i inst those all the time...and i'd say in the last 5 yrs the fuel hose should be ethanol ok...depends on brand,rating etc...i love the type 'A' fuel hose,made for in hull applications...very thick walled ,3/8 id...i put it on my 97 200."
 
"I didn't think about mayb

"I didn't think about maybe a cast problem with that filter base, it's brand new, surely they didn't build it on a friday!I'll double check that next, my old fuel lines I took off had been on the boat at least 10 yrs, I think they are type A nnma approved for in hull boat application. I got scared when I started hearing about ethanol bonding to water & cleaning all the crud out & melting certain rubber, so I went to the local auto supply & bought $100. worth of high pressure,achohol resistant fuel line. I didn't notice how soft it was until I had already installed part of it. I can't tell if it is collapsing in the bends under the deck and gunwales, I guess I'll have to do a vacuum ck on it and see. thanks jwb"
 
"maybe its strictly meant for

"maybe its strictly meant for 'pressure' not suction.....in any case,i'd start at the primer bulb and wk towards the tank..i highly doubt u have a prob w/the fuel filter setup..at least ur fuel pump is pulling a good suction!...i'm afraid a vacuum test,is not going to help u,at this point,..u already know,u have a restriction bad enuf for primer bulb to collapse.if u positively know,there is no prob w/pickup tube,anti siphon valve etc,on tank,i'd repl primer bulb and hose..u could also,THEN vacuum test the hose setup.....i'd also triple ck the venting situation,i have seen obstructions in the thru hull vent piece,kinks etc.."
 
"I cked the vents (blowing

"I cked the vents (blowing thru & sucking on both vents, 2 tanks) when installing the new lines I discovered how inaccessible the valve that switches from main tank to aux. was located. it is a real sob! there could be a sharp bend that collapsizes when there is higher suction on it. I cked it when installing the lines but I couldn't see it or get a goodfeel of it with the position I had to get in to get to it.so i may have to replace those lines with something more solid. I do intend to replace the primer bulb and at least ck for cast problems in the seperator. I don't have an anti siphon valve, I cked when trying to remove the suction tube, it is a straight thru fitting.couldn't unscrew the fitting to replace it either, it's alum. & whoever installed it tightened the sh...t out of it. I couldn't budge it at all. I guess I could put an inline ck valve if I can figure out what my restriction is first. don't want to add to the problem yet.the primer bulb usually has one, would it be enough or do you think I need something more? thanks jwb"
 
"best,in my opinion,..is a BRP

"best,in my opinion,..is a BRP primer bulb,w/brass nipple ,3/8,...there was a prob that omc/brp had a serv bulletin out on ,in 03...alum anti siphon valves,...basically was a corrosion issue causing ball to stick in it...said to use brass only,fr them,of course... no need for the anti siphon valve...altho,it is req on most new boats,and has been for yrs...keep me informed.."
 
"yeah, I am going to ck out th

"yeah, I am going to ck out the change-over valve and lines soon. we got a record 12 inches of snow a couple of days ago & its not all gone yet. still some on the ground & edges of roads. it shut the world down around here, I lived up north for a couple of years so am used to it, but don't want to tangle with the dummies that don't know how to & don't have enough sense to know they don't know how to drive in snow & ice. Got carb rebuild kits yesterday & will rebuild in next couple of days, then ck valve & lines for good flow. forgot to get omc primer bulb yes. ,will pick it up soon.thanks!"
 
"ok, rebuilt carbs with neeedl

"ok, rebuilt carbs with neeedle valves & seats, all new gaskets & o-rings.blew out all ports & holes in carbs with carb cleaner & 25 lbs. of air. cleaned jets well,new omc primer bulb, type a1 fuel lines,(3/8in.) good flow to pump, primer gets really hard quickly. backed in the lake, left on trailer( weather turned bad quick ) ran ok while cold, started to warm up & went to sneezing & missing. let warm up for maybe 5 min. then let idle, sneezed all thru rpm range, less at higher rpm's,after maybe 30 or 45 sec.'s it sneezed and died. did not go out on lake, revved up in & out of gear on trailer at ramp for a few minutes let idle,sneezed & died after few seconds. I noticed before carb rebuild it would idle longer on muffs, but still sneezed & missed. could that be because there was no back pressure & it allowed motor to turn more freely?
what is the larger rubber line coming stright out the front of the intake man. at the bottom. it turns down & is not connected or covered. could it be plugged and causing pressure or vacuum build up? could sneezing be ignition or vacuum, If some one can't narrow it down I guess I'll start over and go thru all the procedures's by the book. thanks, jeff"
 
"went thru cooling system last

"went thru cooling system last month,good water flow, vern's functioning properly. engine was not at operating temp.when tested at lake, just starting to get warm, idled for maybe 2 or 3 min before started to sneeze, continued sneezing & missing from then on at all rpm ranges,ran motor for maybe 10 min.total on trailer at ramp, went to walk around boat with glass of crown yesterday & maybe kick the tires & saw gear oil coming from bottom of lower motor cover, pulled lower gear plug & found oil is grey with water, ordered new pump imp. & seals, will rebuild this weekend, then go back to sneezing problem. I am starting to look forward to the second happiest day of a boat owners life!"
 
"try to determine,...which,car

"try to determine,...which,carb is acting up,and deal w/that one..make sure..the are all closed completely at the same time,..if so i'd enrichen that carb slightly..if u have adj low spd jets.."
 
"no adj. on jets. the people w

"no adj. on jets. the people who reworked carbs a while back did alot of stuff I don't understand. they mixed the 31's & 33's back & forth between port & strbd sides, & replaced the original mid's 55 's with 50's, all except for # 4 cyl. mid range was a 10. went to pro mach shop & measured it then bored out to 50 to match the other 5 cyl's. the sneezing was occuring before I put all the 31's & 33's back to fac man. spec's. (all 31's or one side, all 33's on opposite side.) thought that would eliminate the sneezing but it didn't change anything.I've double cked the butterflies numerous times in drive way but not on water. I can see the strbd side carbs. just start to open the smallest fraction before the port side follows. I mean it is hardly noticible.If I try adjusting it where they don't then the port side won't close completely.It's as close as I can get it and allow all to close completely at the same time. I'm wondering if I got my timing right after I changed the stator. I thought I had it pretty close but couldn't get an acurate reading due to wind picking up while trying to set it. I may try to do the process joe uses to set it out of water. & see if that helps.but i still can't get idle timing right due to rough idle & sneezing.someone sent pm suggesting low crankcase comp. could cause sneezing? how do you ck for low crank. comp? thanks for your help guys, jeff"
 
"can anyone tell me how lower

"can anyone tell me how lower unit oil got up to the lower engine housing,running down outside mid sec. also pulled drain plug on l/u, water in gear case (grey oil)I dropped lower unit & can't see any evidence inside tubes or around top of gear case where l/u oil has passed thru this area. everything looks normal? I did get a new pump rebuild kit & in process of rebuild now."
 
"sounds like a blown pwrhd gas

"sounds like a blown pwrhd gasket....pressure test ur lower unit...might be just the drain plug washers....gray is not terrible,..milky or white is significant wtr."
 
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