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Volvo engine andor drive making noise

D

doney6

Guest
I have a 1976 Bayliner with a

I have a 1976 Bayliner with a AQ170 6cyl engine and 280 drive.
As I was towing the kids in the towable I heard and felt a loud knocking from the engine and/or drive. It still goes forward and reverse. The engine idles smooth. I spoke to a mechanic at the marina and he said to grease the drive shaft bearings. That helped remove some of the noise but I'm not confident the problem has been corrected. There is still vibration during turns and if I give it gas something knocks. I replaced the joint boot last year but I noticed a hole in the new one after I took the boat from the water this year.
Is there a way to check the drive separate from the engine? Possible u joint? Possible bent push rod? Possible drive shaft bearings? I'm handy enough to replace the u joint but the drive bearing or push rod is another story. Should I junk it?
Thanks in advance!
 
Bent pushrod is an unlikely s

Bent pushrod is an unlikely scenario. I'm guessing you got a U-joint problem - "There is still vibration during turns and if I give it gas something knocks" - To replace the U-joint(s) you need to remove the drive from the boat. Once the drive is off you can start the engine (you need to rig a water supply) and verify that the noise is not engine related.

Karl
 
" Thanks Karl. It turns out I

" Thanks Karl. It turns out I had to have both the drive shaft bearings and the u-joints replaced. There was at least 1/4" play in the drive shaft. It seems I caused the problem in the first place. Here in Ohio our lakes are shallow (especially Buckeye Lake) so I tilted the drive a little too much and the u-joint cut a hole in the bellows. Water gets in , washed out the grease, bearings fail. Cost? $500.00
My wife named the boat "Cha Ching" "
 
" Dan, any time you can get a

" Dan, any time you can get a boat fixed for only 500.00 is a bargain. Tell the wife thats cheap for some good family fun and weekends the kids will tell about. Glad to hear you got problem fixed, and enjoy the rest of the season. Kim "
 
" Doney6, had similar problem

" Doney6, had similar problem with my 280, I,m a mechanic but couldn,t positively isolate the problem. Turns out that Volvo Penta has been chasing this noise for years. It is uni joint related, the damper that the drive shaft slots into is designed badly and sloppy uni joints amplify the problem. My 280 is 25 years old - I put up with the noise (performance is not affected). Aldo "
 
" Being an active boater &#40

" Being an active boater (40yrs) & writer for a poplar boating mag I have always enjoyed boating. I have had the Volvo 280 I/O powered by the poplar 350 chev block (AQ225d0 SITTING IN THE STERN OF A 79 WELL CARED FOR AFT CABIN 2225 BAYLINER. i CAN TELL YOU THAT THE ENTIRE PACKAGE FOR PAST 25 YEARS IS ONE OF THE BETTER INVESTMENTS. tHE U JOINT ASSY CAN BE BOUGHT AT YOUR NEAR BY AUTO PARTS STORE..i BELIEVE ITS A FORD REPLACEMENT...IT HAS A ZERK FITTING ON THE YOKE FOR A GOOD GREASING. tHE VESSEL IS TRAILERED AND IS BEARTHED UNDER A PATCH OF SHADE TREES IN OUR REAR YARD. WERE IN THE MID WEST SO PROPER WINTERIZATION IS A MUST..DRAING EVERYTHING..EVEN THE 280 IO. A QT OF OIL DUMPED DOWN THE CARB AT 1,000rpms DOES WELL AND COATS EVERYTHING.(use the one qt oil filters at refill time)) wE HAVE CROSSED THE GREAT LAKES,MICH,SUPERIOR AND HURON MANY TIMES WITH THIS VERY RELIABLE AND SEA WORTHY BOAT,
iM NOW ASKING IF ANYONE KNOWS THE NEW REPLACEMENT FOR THE OLD TYPE PRESTOLITE STARTER VOLVO USED. ITS A MDY-7054 MODEL. IT DOES NOT USE THE SOLENOID TO THROW THE PINNION GEAR INTO THE FLYWHEEL..BUT A SPECIAL BENDEX DOES IT ALL..FOR OVER $250 just for clutch assy!! vOLVO PRICES ARE OFTON HIGHLY INFLATED FOR SIMPLE ITEMS. THE ENTIRE STARTER BY THE WAY IS OVER $400 ! AS MOST ALL STARTERS ARE TOTALLY ENCLOSED AND SAFE FOR EXPLOSION POSSIBILITIES iM THINKING A OFF THE SHELF WILL WORK WELL. I MODIFIED A OFF THE SHELF ALT SOME YEARS AGO.(a 190 amp police special Delco).SPOT WELDING SMALL BRASS SCREENS OVER THE AIR VENTS. (COPPER SCREEENING IS THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IN A TRUE MARINE ALT) A GOOD COATING (epoxies) OVER ALL CREVICES WILL GIVE EXTRA ASSURANCE. ALL THE STARTER REBUILDERS IVE TALKED TO HAVE TOLD ME THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE IN MOST OF THE STARTERS MARKED MARINE JUST HAVE DIFFERENT NUMBERS (AND PRICES)AND OFTON A SPECIAL COAT OF EPOXY PAINT.
I ALSO ADDED (& suggest to all !)A WATER FLOW DECTOR FOR FRESH WATER COOLING/SEA PUMP MONITORING. Elec high voltage egn system..a fuel flow control.
In closing I do not recommend using electrical "auto" parts unless you can tell the difference or how to modify them safetly. a simple layer of copper screening is all that can spell problems or safe use.
An example..the Volvo Penta distributer...many will fit..but the marine version has a small 1'' hole to vent the housing...and looking closely..its also covered with a piece of copper screening. thanks for those who can guide me to the corrrect starter that is now being used...Cliff Rockford ill "
 
opps....I have a bit of confu

opps....I have a bit of confusion in my old age..the volvo penta is a 305 chev block..not a 350 as stated in my last post. sorry cliff
 
" Being an active boater &#40

" Being an active boater (40yrs) & writer for a poplar boating mag I have always enjoyed boating. I have had the Volvo 280 I/O powered by the poplar 350 chev block (AQ225d0 SITTING IN THE STERN OF A 79 WELL CARED FOR AFT CABIN 2225 BAYLINER. i CAN TELL YOU THAT THE ENTIRE PACKAGE FOR PAST 25 YEARS IS ONE OF THE BETTER INVESTMENTS. tHE U JOINT ASSY CAN BE BOUGHT AT YOUR NEAR BY AUTO PARTS STORE..i BELIEVE ITS A FORD REPLACEMENT...IT HAS A ZERK FITTING ON THE YOKE FOR A GOOD GREASING. tHE VESSEL IS TRAILERED AND IS BEARTHED UNDER A PATCH OF SHADE TREES IN OUR REAR YARD. WERE IN THE MID WEST SO PROPER WINTERIZATION IS A MUST..DRAING EVERYTHING..EVEN THE 280 IO. A QT OF OIL DUMPED DOWN THE CARB AT 1,000rpms DOES WELL AND COATS EVERYTHING.(use the one qt oil filters at refill time)) wE HAVE CROSSED THE GREAT LAKES,MICH,SUPERIOR AND HURON MANY TIMES WITH THIS VERY RELIABLE AND SEA WORTHY BOAT,
iM NOW ASKING IF ANYONE KNOWS THE NEW REPLACEMENT FOR THE OLD TYPE PRESTOLITE STARTER VOLVO USED. ITS A MDY-7054 MODEL. IT DOES NOT USE THE SOLENOID TO THROW THE PINNION GEAR INTO THE FLYWHEEL..BUT A SPECIAL BENDEX DOES IT ALL..FOR OVER $250 just for clutch assy!! vOLVO PRICES ARE OFTON HIGHLY INFLATED FOR SIMPLE ITEMS. THE ENTIRE STARTER BY THE WAY IS OVER $400 ! AS MOST ALL STARTERS ARE TOTALLY ENCLOSED AND SAFE FOR EXPLOSION POSSIBILITIES iM THINKING A OFF THE SHELF WILL WORK WELL. I MODIFIED A OFF THE SHELF ALT SOME YEARS AGO.(a 190 amp police special Delco).SPOT WELDING SMALL BRASS SCREENS OVER THE AIR VENTS. (COPPER SCREEENING IS THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IN A TRUE MARINE ALT) A GOOD COATING (epoxies) OVER ALL CREVICES WILL GIVE EXTRA ASSURANCE. ALL THE STARTER REBUILDERS IVE TALKED TO HAVE TOLD ME THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE IN MOST OF THE STARTERS MARKED MARINE JUST HAVE DIFFERENT NUMBERS (AND PRICES)AND OFTON A SPECIAL COAT OF EPOXY PAINT.
I ALSO ADDED AN WATER FLOW DECTOR FOR FRESH WATER COOLING/SEA PUMP MONITORING. Elec high voltage egn system..a fuel flow control.
In closing I do not recommend using electrical "auto" parts unless you can tell the difference or how to modify them safetly. a simple layer of copper screening is all that can spell problems or safe use.
An example..the Volvo Penta distributer...many will fit..but the marine version has a small 1'' hole to vent the housing...and looking closely..its also covered with a piece of copper screening. thanks for those who can guide me to the corrrect starter that is now being used...Cliff Rockford ill "
 
The Prestolite MDY-7054 starte

The Prestolite MDY-7054 starter for the Volvo/Chevy 350 can be bought from most auto-electric repair shops.
 
"Oh yes, and the price for the

"Oh yes, and the price for the starter is about $170."
 
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