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Borg Warner 1911 Gear Fluid Leak

major_tom

Regular Contributor
"As luck would have it my port

"As luck would have it my port side gear is showing a small leak at what appears to be the rear seal just ahead of the shaft coupler. No spraying of ATF to speak of but new oil absorber pads reveal a consistent but small amount of ATF below the coupler area only after each run.

I beleive they are the 71C (model 10-17) velvet drive gears connected to 1984 454's. Either that or 72C gears but 71C sounds right. Looking for a new seal Borg Warner part # 71C-110 comes up. Can anyone confirm this?

Anyone replaced a rear seal in one of these older in line gears lately? It looks like you remove the coupler nut and coupler and the seal is right behind it. Looks like a good rainy day project if I had the right seal in hand.

Regards,"
 
"That seal is common across th

"That seal is common across the "older" velvet drives. The 10-17 suggests the "newer" 71 series. The good news is that seal is common across both series and all reduction ratios, too.

I haven't done one in a while but remember them to be very similar to the front timing cover seals. Check the Flange OD for grooving and rust, which eats up those seals. Grease seal before reassemble, etc.

The 'newer seal number is 10-00-044-017. the aftermarket stuff indicates the OD difference is the easiest distinguisher - older stuff has these dimensions: O.D. = 2.685" - I.D. = 1.932", the "newer" stuff has an OD ~ 3.25". I'd give your potential vendor a call and verify the part number before ordering."
 
"Thanks Mako. I'm pretty

"Thanks Mako. I'm pretty sure I have the older 2.7" seal. I'll check with the vendor to verify part #'s, diameters, etc."
 
"Tom:

The 8/31/1988 manual


"Tom:

The 8/31/1988 manual I have IDs the early production stuff as the Asxxxtype model numbers and the newer stuff as having the 10-1x designators.

if you don't have one, i can email it. Its under 5MB on the disk."
 
"I have a positive ID on the s

"I have a positive ID on the seal from a local supplier so I'm good there. I just have to figure out how to put 240 ft lbs on the nut while holding the coupler from turning. Then how to get the seal out. Finally, how to reassemble to the same torque so the thing won't spin off.

Its starting to look more like a rainy weekend project than a rainy day one and I'm going to need some monster sockets, breaker bars, etc. to pull it off."
 
"Compressor and impact gun wit

"Compressor and impact gun with impact socket.

remove 'lip seal' using standard tool; eg:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3245.html

If the impact takes it off, it can reassemble it. If you have a clicker wrench, rigging up an "anti-rotation device" is easy - use the coupler and two of its existing holes. I wouldn't attempt it with a beam wrench."
 
Thanks. I'll pick up a se

Thanks. I'll pick up a seal puller.

I don't have the clearence for a standard impact wrench because the shaft coupler is in the way. Looks like a 3/4" breaker bar and a 1.5" socket (or whatever the nut size is) will be put into service. Bolting a piece of bar stock across two of the coupler holes should keep the coupler from rotating.
 
i was thinking may be easier t

i was thinking may be easier to loosen the mounts and lift the gear end enough to get the impact to work....you have to reset the alignment but don't have to do the knuckle-buster route.

Just another option to trade off.
 
"help, question. Borg Warner

"help, question. Borg Warner trany stuck in forward gear tried to put in reverse coming in dock to slow down at idle speed still going forward turned ignition off. worked forward and reverse throtle put in neutural postion,started engine was hard to turn over, once started still in forward gear hit the dock post, no control puled boat out of water, checked in neutural tried to spin propeler with no luck. still in gear, any advice would be much help thanks"
 
"Check the cable from the shif

"Check the cable from the shifter to the gear.

check the control valve arm and shaft for binding, at the gear, too."
 
"Mark, I have that same trans

"Mark, I have that same transmission a 10-17 Velvet Drive Borg Warner. Can that manual be found online and downloaded?"
 
Thanks Paul. That is the 1 ma

Thanks Paul. That is the 1 manual I never had BECAUSE....until I took the engine out I could NEVER read the data plate !
 
"I could use a softcopy of the

"I could use a softcopy of the 72C repair manual. also, I have a softcopy of the 454 parts manual if anyone needs."
 
"The '88 version I have sh

"The '88 version I have should be present @ your inbox. if you need the 71, I've got an older version for that. My understanding is there are about ten 'updates' that can be done on the 72. Unfortunately i don't have a clue to what they are."
 
"Al:

exactly how is your dr


"Al:

exactly how is your drive line set up?

I thought it was a V-drive but above you say you have a 10-17 gear? A rather unique, Bob-type of setup/class/configuration?"
 
"Mark,

From the bellhousing


"Mark,

From the bellhousing I have the transmission 1:1 then I have the Walters V-drive bolted to the trans"
 
makomark steve here. checked s

makomark steve here. checked shift cable and control arm sems ok litle slugis in forward checked oil level its ok but seen some milky foam at top of dip stick may be some water got in. i dont see how. i will check trans cooler tomorow. whats the best way to disengage trany from forward gear this is a B W model 10-18-004 ratio 1-52-1 anybody have manual for this model or maybe scamatics thanks
 
"if you can't dis-engage F

"if you can't dis-engage FWD by moving the control arm, I'm pretty sure the issue is internal. That means pulling the gear, usually not hard but no fun."
 
"Steven; I think your forward

"Steven; I think your forward clutch discs are warped, preventing disengagement. It all has to come apart for a clutch job. If the cooler has seen at least 10 years of salt use, replace it."
 
diver dave thanks for input. d

diver dave thanks for input. drained t-fluid was contaminated cooler is being checked by radiator shop. on the right side of control valve right side of trany is a switch with 2 wires was lose tried to snug with screw driver but still lose what are they for/ i will try to start it up with new fluid maybe something will losen up. o oil colers newer seen salt water i em on lake erie. great lakes. they might be bad 3 years ago my engine froze and cracked and the cooler was not drained then thanks
 
"switch is neutral safety swit

"switch is neutral safety switch, preventing cranking if not in neutral. Slow crank may be due to having to crank the propellor/shaft/gearing. Since hydralic pressure is not yet built up, issue points to clutch."
 
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