AQ131C SP drive repair

"There are several problems wi

"There are several problems with the starboard drive on our houseboat: one leaking trim cylinder, one broken trim cylinder rod end, and inoperable retaining pawl mechanism. I assume that one can remove/replace these parts without fully removing the drive from the transom as I remember seeing the drive lifted up for bellows replacement and these items were all exposed. Has anyone attempted this with the drive partially submerged? I don't want to leave the boat at the only marina on our lake with a travel lift (the boat weighs about 45,000 lb, excluding the beer stored in the hold) to make the repairs on their schedule. Rather, I would like to back the boat up on a suitable trailer at the local concrete ramp as far as possible to do the work myself. Any thoughts or suggestions, aside from the obvious concerns about keeping water out of the hydraulic hose fittings or dropping parts in the water?
And what 'zactly is the SP drive - 270? 275? 280?
Thanks."

"The SP is just a 290 single p

"The SP is just a 290 single prop with a facelift.

One of the problems you may have trying to do "in water repairs" is retrieving any parts falling in the water (please, don't ask me how do I know that....) and another problem would be preventing water from reaching places it shouldn't reach."

"How high is the normal oil le

"How high is the normal oil level in this drive, and if full, would it leak out when the drive is pulled from the transom shield without draining the oil first? I suppose I could pump most of it out through the dipstick hole if I had to. (I'll be standing in the water, so probably can't drain it the usual way.)
What does the complete drive weigh? Can 2 people manhandle it to remove it from the transom shield?"

"Briefly:

1) The drive

"Briefly:

1) The drive is a sealed unit. Oil should not leak when you pull it out from the transom shield. Unless, of course, you want to pull just the upper gear assembly, then you better drain the oil first.

2) I have never tried it, but to the best of my knowledge you cannot pump-out oil through the disptick hole.

3) One man can handle the drive, but two would be better.

In view of your questions/assumptions, I think you need to do some homework before you start tearing things apart. You can download the operator's manual for your engine and drive from here (it's easy reading):

http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/global/en-gb/marine_leisure_engines/engines/out_ of_production_engines/out_of_production_engines.htm


Then, you can download the outdrive's repair manual from here:

http://www.mybayliner.co.uk/boatmad/280285290.pdf

Afterwards, you may consider getting hold of a copy of the Seloc manual for your engine/outdrive."

"Thanks, El. I downloaded bot

"Thanks, El. I downloaded both documents after reading posts here last year. It's more the approach to the job that I'm concerned about now - the actual repairs/replacement are pretty clear.
Sure wish that I owned a nice 25 ton travel lift..."

"I'm looking for recommend

"I'm looking for recommendations on tools to buy in advance of removing SP drives and replacing reverse tilt inhibit assembly and both trim cylinders. If you have done this before, did you use Volvo tools like 884311 and 884259 for removing/replacing steering spindle and bushings? 884140 and 884143 for axial bearing race? For a 20-year old fresh-water-only boat, does the trim cylinder dowel pin grease gun removal procedure usually work, or should I buy tool 884978 described in the Volvo repair manual?"