"I just got a '73 Ted Will
"I just got a '73 Ted Williams Outboard 4.5Hp, model number 217-5946-3. I am going through the whole engine before I even try to start it. I have already checked the carb out and it 'appears' to be ready to run. I do want to take the lower leg off so that I can visually check the cylinder wall through the exhaust port for carbon buildup and scoreing, but the top half of the leg doesn't want to come off. I took the 6 screws out that hold it on the motor, but it just won't seperate and I don't want to damage it. Any tips?
I also want to check the information that I have found so far. The plug gap should be .30 inch and the point gap should be .20 inch gap. The gear case by the prop should use 80/90 weight oil filled to the vent hole. The impeller in the little water pump likes to break up which causes the leg to overheat the engine. Also, how often do you grease the leg pivot(I think thats the right term) where the motor turns on the clamo assembly and what type of grease do you use? Is this all correct?
Finally, once I get it ready to start, what is the recommended starting procedure? Don't try recommending ether becuase I have seen many a 2 stroke destroyed by ether. I use the standard fuel mix in a smal spray bottle and spray it straight down the carb with it wide open(been doing it that way on snowmobiles for several years with excellent results).
When it comes time to mount it to my canoe, what is the little ring on the clamp bracket for? I am guessing that it is for a safety line, but am not sure(this is my first outboard experience).
Finally, how well will this little guy push a 19 foot canoe through the water? I have used a 28 pound thrust trolling motor with decent results.
Thanks for any help you can give me on this little motor. The motor itself is like an old friend in the fact that I have worked on many small 2 stroke engines in small equipment(lawn and pleasure) and have missed them since moving into a more urban area."
"I just got a '73 Ted Williams Outboard 4.5Hp, model number 217-5946-3. I am going through the whole engine before I even try to start it. I have already checked the carb out and it 'appears' to be ready to run. I do want to take the lower leg off so that I can visually check the cylinder wall through the exhaust port for carbon buildup and scoreing, but the top half of the leg doesn't want to come off. I took the 6 screws out that hold it on the motor, but it just won't seperate and I don't want to damage it. Any tips?
I also want to check the information that I have found so far. The plug gap should be .30 inch and the point gap should be .20 inch gap. The gear case by the prop should use 80/90 weight oil filled to the vent hole. The impeller in the little water pump likes to break up which causes the leg to overheat the engine. Also, how often do you grease the leg pivot(I think thats the right term) where the motor turns on the clamo assembly and what type of grease do you use? Is this all correct?
Finally, once I get it ready to start, what is the recommended starting procedure? Don't try recommending ether becuase I have seen many a 2 stroke destroyed by ether. I use the standard fuel mix in a smal spray bottle and spray it straight down the carb with it wide open(been doing it that way on snowmobiles for several years with excellent results).
When it comes time to mount it to my canoe, what is the little ring on the clamp bracket for? I am guessing that it is for a safety line, but am not sure(this is my first outboard experience).
Finally, how well will this little guy push a 19 foot canoe through the water? I have used a 28 pound thrust trolling motor with decent results.
Thanks for any help you can give me on this little motor. The motor itself is like an old friend in the fact that I have worked on many small 2 stroke engines in small equipment(lawn and pleasure) and have missed them since moving into a more urban area."