Logo
FULL SITE MENU

AQ125270 Water pipe and Prop

N

newbieornottobe

Member
"Greetings.

Just got a 1985

"Greetings.

Just got a 1985 Bayliner Capri bowrider (17 footish) for almost nothing as it needs a new interior. The original owner had it pulled all out for a re-do. I'll be putting in a floor, carpet and seats, and doing any needed engine maintenance to get it back to good running shape. (it does run)

It has an AQ125 (not sure if A or B?), and the 270 outdrive.

I'll need a new prop...can't tell if this is a short or long type though? And is it a problem to run the reverse pitch prop? Read it's no problem, and I can get a good deal on one. (assuming the shaft is fine)...one blade has about 1/8 inch of one tip rather stripped away...as if it hit a rock.. could be from our infamous one in the launch area here. Or could have been from just being moved while on land.

I'll be replacing the drive bellows (have that). I'll be installing a new impeller (coming tomorrow)

The guy I bought it from said it has a cracked water tube, and it sure does.

I hope that's the limit of cracked anything. Can't tell yet though. What I worry about is why this one cracked...looks like a winterizing issue...water remained inside?

How much are these water tubes? Can a new section be spliced in..using oversized outer pipes soldered to connect say one inch beyond the join each way? Can I just close it up a bit , then solder or braze?

This looks a bit like a snake which ate a rat! Thus wonder if soldering and using the original would cause some kind of Bernoulli principle as to the flow slowing then speeding up again. Is there a way to make your own? Bending I can do, creating the flanges would be an issue though.

If the pipe is $25, that's nothing, but if it's $100, that's not nothing.
It's a dealer item according to the VPStore.

Thanks for any advice. Attached a pic.

Robert

172067.jpg
"
 
"What soldering could cause is

"What soldering could cause is electrolysis, and you don't want that to happen. In my view, brazing would be a better option.

That pipe looks expanded between the clamp and the drain, which points to the pipe not being drained during the winter. However, an easy fix would be tapping the protrusion with a small hammer until the pipe is round again and you can not see the opening in the crack, then put a piece of rubber on top of the crack and secure it with a stainless hose clamp. It may not look elegant, but it sure won't create electrolysis. And personally, I would leave signore Bernoulli out of this.
wink.gif


Regarding your other question, not sure how much Volvo Penta would want for that pipe (part 20 in the link) but by looking at the price of parts 6 & 7 my guess is about two hundred bucks.

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1868&GroupList=1885,1864,1863,1873,1874,1868,1862,1861,1865,1884,1883,1867,187 1,1872,1869,1878,1879,1880,1881,1882,1866,1887,1870,1886,1875,1877

You can use a prop with reverse rotation, you just have to test the boat afterwards and see how it handles."
 
"Check on the Bernoulli, I can

"Check on the Bernoulli, I can always over think things.


I like the clamp solution, thanks. I fear that two hundred is going to be accurate as to the cost otherwise.

This is a freshwater engine situation if that matters more per the electrolysis.

I'll order some flange seals, beat it back into submission (gently), and see how it goes once the impeller is in."
 
Back
Top