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What to do When the White Gook Strikes

fastjeff

Gold Medal Contributor
Got a tidbit of advise for anyone fighting ethanol gas problems (as I have been this summer). Even though I 'fill 'em up' for the winter every year--and douse the fuel with lots of Star Brite conditioner--the "white gook" has apparently built up year by year until it's become a problem.(See photo.)

First of all, what is "white gook"? This is a milk resembling white liquid formed by the exposure of ethanol and water. It is heavier than the fuel and will past RIGHT through filters, strainers and, yes, even water separators. And when you get enough of this crap in a carb the motor won't start very well (or at all), idle poorly (if at all), and stalls easily. Sound familiar?

Okay; so how do you get rid of it? The "standard approach" is to pump out the lower 1/4 or so of each tank, tossing it out (or decanting the good stuff off the top for one's car or truck). Not only is this a PITA, dangerous to do at a marina (many won't allow it), it's also expensive--that gas ain't cheap, pardner! Furthermore, if the boat wasn't sitting DEAD still for several hours, the white gook will not considerately lie at the bottom of your tank to be pumped out. The nerve!

So...If you can't reliably pump it out, and the motors are running like crap, then what can you do?

It's called (for lack of a proper name) the Fastjeff Flushing Method. Here's how it's done:

Start (hopefully) the motor and get it up to temperature. As it is idling, and if you have a good ear, you will hear a "different' exhaust sound: louder, and rougher. That's 'cause the motor is running lean at idle. Instead of sucking in, say, 100 cc of fuel per hour, it's only getting (say) 60 ccs or so, along with 40 ccs (in this example) of white gook. Slip on a bit of choke on by hand and you'll see what I mean: the motor will instantly smooth out and pick up a few rpms. Release the choke and it will get rougher again.

Here's what to do next: Shut the gas off at the fuel pump, then keep that sucker running as long as you can. That means pumping the HELL out the throttle to use up every drop of fuel remaining in the carb. Next,open the fuel shut off valve and fire her up--it'll take a bunch of cranking (with mechanical pumps) since the carb is dry. Then repeat the above exercise.

You'll notice an immediate improvement in idle quality, one that will last a while (unless your tanks are really loaded with that crap). In my case, Mr. Starboard has made it several months now, with Mr. Port needed the treatment twice.


Jeff
 

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Got a tidbit of advise for anyone fighting ethanol gas problems (as I have been this summer). Even though I 'fill 'em up' for the winter every year--and douse the fuel with lots of Star Brite conditioner--the "white gook" has apparently built up year by year until it's become a problem.(See photo.)

First of all, what is "white gook"? This is a milk resembling white liquid formed by the exposure of ethanol and water. It is heavier than the fuel and will past RIGHT through filters, strainers and, yes, even water separators. And when you get enough of this crap in a carb the motor won't start very well (or at all), idle poorly (if at all), and stalls easily. Sound familiar?

Okay; so how do you get rid of it? The "standard approach" is to pump out the lower 1/4 or so of each tank, tossing it out (or decanting the good stuff off the top for one's car or truck). Not only is this a PITA, dangerous to do at a marina (many won't allow it), it's also expensive--that gas ain't cheap, pardner! Furthermore, if the boat wasn't sitting DEAD still for several hours, the white gook will not considerately lie at the bottom of your tank to be pumped out. The nerve!

So...If you can't reliably pump it out, and the motors are running like crap, then what can you do?

It's called (for lack of a proper name) the Fastjeff Flushing Method. Here's how it's done:

Start (hopefully) the motor and get it up to temperature. As it is idling, and if you have a good ear, you will hear a "different' exhaust sound: louder, and rougher. That's 'cause the motor is running lean at idle. Instead of sucking in, say, 100 cc of fuel per hour, it's only getting (say) 60 ccs or so, along with 40 ccs (in this example) of white gook. Slip on a bit of choke on by hand and you'll see what I mean: the motor will instantly smooth out and pick up a few rpms. Release the choke and it will get rougher again.

Here's what to do next: Shut the gas off at the fuel pump, then keep that sucker running as long as you can. That means pumping the HELL out the throttle to use up every drop of fuel remaining in the carb. Next,open the fuel shut off valve and fire her up--it'll take a bunch of cranking (with mechanical pumps) since the carb is dry. Then repeat the above exercise.

You'll notice an immediate improvement in idle quality, one that will last a while (unless your tanks are really loaded with that crap). In my case, Mr. Starboard has made it several months now, with Mr. Port needed the treatment twice.


Jeff

Are you missing a few steps here? How does running the carb dry, then starting it back up remove the white stuff from the tank?

Please explain what you think is happening here.

Thanks,
JJ
 
I think it just clears the carb. Would the carb not fill right back up with shtuff after you open the supply valve??

will
 
Right; it "eats" it up. The new charge of fuel coming in dilutes what's left, and the second "treatment" gets rid of virtually all of it--until more comes in.

Thanks Washington DC, you idiots!

Jeff
 
They say that phase separation leaves a low octane slush that can damage your engine. Unfortunately the safest thing to do is pump out your tanks, replace o-rings on deck fills, and clean out your carbs to start over.:mad:

My strategy has been to keep as little fuel in the tanks as I can safely get away with. I also treat every fill with star-tron. I want to keep little fuel because it degrades very fast. I want to keep turning over my inventory of fuel as fast as possible. That is why cars don't have much trouble with ethanol. I understand the logic in keeping tanks full, but several experts believe that atmospheric water isn't enough to cause phase separation if you keep turning over your fuel inventory. So far, I have had no issues for the past 6 years or so.

I started over with new tanks, carbs, and A-1 rated fuel lines/fills/vents. (I know your pain).
 
a canister type water filter in the gas line will catch some of it...the filter under the cowl or on the engine may appear to be ok and you can blow thru it but its restrictive...hell of a mess...the tank(s) need cleaning and fuel lines and all filters replaced is the only fix in my opinion...... engine damage will be minimal with a 4 cycle...a 2 cycle is a different story...if stranded with an outboard carb engine it may run at low rpm and get you in with the motor tilted to the point where you are just getting water to cool the engine...a 4cycle efi may run well enough to get you in at 1700 or so rpm...
 
Leaning out a motor at IDLE will not damage it. At cruising speed the small amount of white gook in the carb is not enough to cause damage--if one is paying attention. The motor either runs normally, or it bogs like crazy, backfiring away for a few seconds. When that happens, I pump the gas violently, which adds extra fuel (accelerator pump). THis "human fuel injection system" is maintained until the bogging/ backfiring goes away. Hell; you've done the same thing yourself, many times, I'm sure.

In my case (with inboards) the angle the carbs are running in puts the heavier white gook to the rear. The primary jets (that I'm running on) are in front, so they don't see as much. That's why the motor idles so lousy when one drops off plane--the white gook flows forward to enter the idle circuit.

Jeff
 
Leaning out a motor at IDLE will not damage it. At cruising speed the small amount of white gook in the carb is not enough to cause damage--if one is paying attention. The motor either runs normally, or it bogs like crazy, backfiring away for a few seconds. When that happens, I pump the gas violently, which adds extra fuel (accelerator pump). THis "human fuel injection system" is maintained until the bogging/ backfiring goes away. Hell; you've done the same thing yourself, many times, I'm sure.

In my case (with inboards) the angle the carbs are running in puts the heavier white gook to the rear. The primary jets (that I'm running on) are in front, so they don't see as much. That's why the motor idles so lousy when one drops off plane--the white gook flows forward to enter the idle circuit.

Jeff

Jeff, what do you use for fuel/water separators? I'm running NAPA 3225s. They filter to 14 microns nominal. I'd be amazed if this goop gets through that.


-JJ
 
It's a LIQUID; it goes right through filters designed to stop SOLIDS.

My water separators are the old Perko type that seem to work very well otherwise.

Jeff
 
It's a LIQUID; it goes right through filters designed to stop SOLIDS.

My water separators are the old Perko type that seem to work very well otherwise.

Jeff

Is it a LIQUID so much as it is a GEL? There's a difference. A paper filter element will stop a gel. Especially if it's more dense than gasoline (as it appears to be in your picture).

I'd check the micron rating of your perko filters.


Thanks,
JJ
 
Jeff, It's funny you came out with this, my boat just started this crap. Both engines run great up to 2300rpm, then the port engine starts to fluctuate up and down then bog right down if I floor it ,does'nt skip and it doesn't backfire. Last year it did this toward the end of the season and I filled it with 93 Octane fuel and I ended up cleaning it out slowly by pushing the throttles down about ten times until I got over that hump and it revved right up to 4000rpm. Now this year, the same thing. I'm gonna try your trick and see if it works. What if you disconnect the linkage and rev up the motor and choke it out at the same time, then release the choke and let it rev up again? Doing this several times. Would'nt this flood out the carb enough to flush out anything in it?This was my next step!! GOD DAMN ETHANOL !! :mad:
 
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That'll work, long as the fuel valve is shut off to empty the carb.

One of mine did it to me again last week, but I held the throttle wide open to suck it out of there. On plane off the carbs (on mine) are tilted backwards, so the White Gook tends to pile up in the back of the carb, where the secondary main jets are. A few seconds of wide open running, with the bow nice and high, and it cleared up--until next time.

Jeff
 
Jeff, did what you said and it worked. I actually let it run out three times before I took her out. I also removed the small fuel filter inside the carb,it looks very restrictive, with 10micron filters in the water seperators I figure thats good enough. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll be sure to remember the "FastJeff Flushing Method" in the future !!!!
 
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