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Timing for 1968 55 HP Triumph 55873R

N

Norm Magnuson

Contributing Member
I completed a full tuneup of my 68 55HP motor. It worked well the first day but I had to remove the flywheel for a few adjustments on throttle linkage. Now it will start and run for 10 seconds and stops. I'm thinking the timing is off. Can I bring cylinder 1 to top dead center and align the timing mark on flywheel to mark on ring gear guard? How do I set the timing as I do not have a timing light. Also, after about 25 minutes working on the engine, my starter become very hot and the red power wire started to slightly smoke. Could this be because I over used it?
 
Ignition timing was set back in 1968.-----Should not be tampered with.-----What trouble shooting have you done ?----With the starter smoking you are cranking too much.----And the starter and flywheel with small teeth was only used in 1968.----Used parts may be harder to find.
 
I rebuilt the starter with all new parts except for the windings. I’ve checked all ignition parts, dist, cap, wires, points throttle linkage, low speed carb settings, and fuel pump. I move the propeller until the point hit a high side of the shaft and then mounted the flywheel. I need help as to where the points need to be, cylinder 1 should be and where flywheel should be.
 
I believe from the manual that initial setting is 5/8th turn out.----So your motor is stalling out ?----Try 3/4 turn out.----What trouble shooting steps have been done ?-----How did this motor run for you last season ?
 
racerone said:
I believe from the manual that initial setting is 5/8th turn out.----So your motor is stalling out ?----Try 3/4 turn out.----What trouble shooting steps have been done ?-----How did this motor run for you last season ?
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I tried the 5/8 turn, but couldn’t get it exactly so this why I guessed at 1/2 to 3/4 turns. Points are set at .010.

I’ve checked all ignition parts, dist, cap, wires, points throttle linkage, low speed carb settings, and fuel pump. I move the propeller until the point hit a high side of the shaft and then mounted the flywheel. Engine will start and runs for 5 - 10 seconds and just stops.
 
Sorry----How did the motor run last season ?----Anything happen suddenly.-----My questions may appear silly to you.----But I am very familiar with that motor.---Have a few on the shelf..
 
Ran fine and then ran hot in March. Finished work on engine parts and then had to remove flywheel. I tested it again where it still runs hot and the engine shuts down after running 5 - 10 seconds. 2 problems runs hot and either gas or electrical ignition problems.
 
Ran/runs hot and shuts down? Better be thinking about more serious things. Like piston destruction. Compression check at least.
 
Water pump impeller is new last October when I rebuilt lower unit. Since it sat so long I removed the head gasket and all exhaust gaskets and replaced. I did this to make sure all water cooling channels were clear. Piston heads were mostly free of carbon but I wire wheeled to remove all carbon. Cylinder walls were not scared or had any apparent groves, scratches etc. The motor head has everything new except for rebuilding the piston and rings. The first time I removed the flywheel I used a Bloch of wood and hammered on the shaft until the flywheel came loose. I had to repeat this process again for the ignition parts replacement and then again when I had adjustments in March. Could this have hurt the new impeller? I did not conduct any compression tests as last fall as the engine started and ran as it did new.
 
A block of wood is a poor technique.-------You did torque the flywheel nut ?----No the hammering did not damage the impeller.-----The rotor was installed in the correct position ?-----It has a key.----Any holes in the crankcase ?---What happens when your assistant operates the manual fuel pump ?
 
racerone said:
A block of wood is a poor technique.-------You did torque the flywheel nut ?----No the hammering did not damage the impeller.-----The rotor was installed in the correct position ?-----It has a key.----Any holes in the crankcase ?---What happens when your assistant operates the manual fuel pump ?
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Yes block of wood was poor choice but it would not come off. Flywheel was torqued to service manual specs. I believe Rotor was installed correctly. No holes in crankcase. What do you mean about operating the manual fuel pump?
 
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