Reverse Lock Issue !

[mcguigas]

All,

First thank you to you all for your posts and answers as they have helped me already. Here is my current issue:
Just Picked up a two owner 1975 Renken 995 with the Mercruiser 120 and MC-1 outdrive. In very good condition. My first boat, was looking for a project, love to work or cars etc... Going through everything and learning the boat trying to get it ready for this season. Started troubleshooting a no UP/OUT trim condition. It has the single solenoid Prestolite Pump with the reverse lockout valve/switch. Would trim IN(down) but not up. Thanks to these forums and manuals, I re wired the system and replaced the solenoid. Adjusted the lockout per the manual(i hope). Everything is working electrically but now for the problem. while using the UP/OUT trailering function(i have the 3 button switch) the reverse lockout valve started pissing out fluid from under the rotating cam piece that is connected to the shift arm. I swapped out with one I got on ebay...same result. I then opened it up and replaced the o rings.. Worked for several cycles but then... started leaking again from the same place, it's almost like I hear a pop and it starts to leak again... Kind of at an impasse.. Any suggestions or recommendations ? Bypass the reverse lockout ? upgrade the pump to a newer version ? not sure what to try next... thanks for any advice..

 

[kghost]

1. I wonder if you have a wiring issue and you are pressurizing the trim up and down circuit at the same time?

2. Can you show how you wired it?

3. because it is an old 3 button trim button set up what buttons are you pushing and when?

4. my guess is due to the wiring of the 3 button control you are doing #1 on this list.


I will review schematic of the pump control wiring and see what I can see.............You may have to rewire the 3 button control.

If you would like to eliminate the reverse lock out all together then updating to a modern pump with the plastic reservoir would do that as it has the reverse lock out built into the internal valving of the pump.

 

[kghost]

Here is what your wiring should look like.

 

[mcguigas]

Jack,

thank you. I tried to follow the schematic when I wired it up. Doesn't mean something isnt out of place. Before I changed the solenoid only the IN would work. After , the Out works for a short period. Then if Inparess both top buttons it drives to the full OUT position. I'll get a good picture of the new wiring. I followed that exact schematic...maybe you can spot an error. Thanks for the reply.
Scott

 

[kghost]

My suggestion would be to activate the solenoids at the pump and see if you reproduce the over pressure condition.

Get a MOMENTARY on/off switch and connect up two 14 gauge wires (~3 ft long) with alligator clips on the other ends.

Clip one lead to the Battery hot (large red wire) on top of one of the solenoids
and the other lead to the SMALL wire on the solenoid, The wire with color, (green for down and blue for up)..
The black wire is ground do not jump to that wire(s)!!!

This will energize the solenoid and cause the pump to run. Do the up and then do the down and see what happens.

See if the over pressure issue is still present and if it is it may either be a clogged line or a bad pump with a bad valve and it is over pressurized.

 

[mcguigas]

I'll give that a try. My system only has one solenoid, which I replaced to fix the no UP/OUT trim. The pump seems to activate correctly for each of the three switches.. Just blows out at the reverse lockout valve.. I got it to work a few cycles but then..same again..

I'll try to isolate the switches.