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Powerhead rebuild or not

John/rude has used caged wrist pin bearings on and off for years.. The late 60's V-4 had em, the mid 70's 25-60 had em, and all the V-6 Fichts got em.
 
FB, Sounds good! Going to put them in, ordered the lubes that the manual specs. From Crowley so I'm waiting on it to show up and also some Loctite 518 for the crankcase and block seal.
 
Go ahead and clean all sealing surfaces and run a tap thru the bolt holes before steam cleaning. Oil block as soon as you get done or it will flash rust
 
It's hurry up and wait on the assembly lubes, package is still making its way to the house! I'm the meantime I built an engine stand and started chasing threads and cleaning up the sealing surfaces. Then cleaning the block inside and out. Here's a pic of the stand I built.
 

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So I ordered 28 needle bearing kits, no particular reason other than I decided to put it back together the way it came apart. Kits should be here in a couple days.
 
Quick update! Finally got a few minutes of spare time tonight to work on the pistons. I was able to get #1 con rod swapped over with a new piston and 28 needle bearings. A little trick with the 28 bearings but not as bad as the retainer clips them bad boys are rough on the fingers! Here’s some pics. FYI: The bearing packet had 29 needle bearing so I checked another pack and it also had 29 maybe WSM included a spare.
 

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Any one have a tip on how to get these circlips in, my fingers are toast! I was able to get one side but once the wrist pin is in it next to impossible to get the clip in. I’m at the point of buying a tool for 3 clips.
 

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Thanks R1, I’ll give it shot again. Yes safety glasses for sure. It’s tricky! If it takes flight you’re super lucky if you find it!!
 
Thanks R1 for your tip and boost of confidence! I was able to get the rascals in! The tiny screwdriver and a little patience did the trick also the piece of foam under the rod to keep it from flopping around was big help too. Here’s some pics of the setup and screwdriver!
 

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Blocking cleaning complete and passes the white rag test. Here’s some pics
 

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Ring gaps checked all were .024 which is within the range for 1989 models. Seloc manual specs. It at .019-.030 for 1989 and later. My Evinrude manual is 1988 so all it lists is 0.007-0.017 specs. The new rings themself are a little different from the old rings. But the new pistons came as a kit so should be good. Both new rings look the same to me. I’m going to check into it and see what I can find out. Here’s some pics to check out! Maybe someone has installed WSM pistons and has some insight!
 

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90% of aftermarket pistons use RIK rings except Siezco. Have installed hundreds of the WSM pistons and had near zero issues. You need to surface the block...
 
FB thanks for the ring info! Couple questions guy that bored it for me said don’t mess with deck or head. He wasn’t able to do it, myself I wanted both the head and deck surfaced. Should I stop by the machine shop and talk to them and show them the block and head. Just got thru cleaning everything too. Also on the rings are they both the same? There’s not a bevel on either of them just RN and .040 stamped on both of them. Here’s a pic of the head.
 

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Every cylinder head I have looked at has been warped.-----Yours is too and needs to be trued up.----Piece of glass and valve grinding compound is the " poor man " way of doing it.
 
I trued a smaller head via this method. Get a sheet of window glass, it’s very flat. Lay it on a piece of plywood, or other flat surface to support it. Spread valve grinding compound on the glass, along with something to lubricate it, I used a sheet of wet/dry automotive paper & water.
mark the edge of the head, all around with a sharpie marker. Now place place the head on your work surface & swirl it around, in a figure 8. You don’t need pressure, the weight of the head is sufficient. The sharpie markings will stay on the low spots until the high spots have been removed. So…when the last of the markings are gone, the head is truly flat. It only takes a few minutes.
Make sure you clean it afterwards to remove any residual grit.
 
Thank E177! I'll gather up the what's needed and give it a shot! Also been watching some YouTube's this morning too! Several with glass and sandpaper glued on it.
 
Thanks E177 looking at the link now. Here's a better pic of what the block and head look like. I originally took these to the automotive machine shop but the guy recommended I take it to another guy that did small bore jobs such as outboards and bikes. I asked about resurfacing the deck and head but he didn't have much to say about it. He did however make sure I knew to clean and then clean more one the block to make sure all the bored material just gone! Just like R1 and FBullet told me. Got to pass the white rag test.
 

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Update guys, took the block and head by the machine shop guys said no problem he would take care it! Hope to have it back in a day or so. Told him I didn't know how much he to take from the block deck he said woukd only take the absolute min. Head he said no problem.
 
Stopped by to check on my stuff at the machine shop and it was ready! He did the best he could with what I gave him! Here's some pics the block was milled 0.007 thousandths and head he said it had to go on the plate sander and he took it down to where it was decent.
 

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