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P 105 pump repair

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CaboJohn

Regular Contributor
I cannot remove the impeller on my Sherwood P105 even though it is off the boat and on the bench. Anyone know any tricks that might work?
Thanks,
CaboJohn
 
Try taking and putting it in a pan of very hot water, let it get warmed right up and then try. Old fisherman I new used to swear by this. Ive never had to try it but there you are. Just don't use the wife's good pan's :rolleyes:
 
Try spraying WD40 liberally into the impeller cavity.
Move the drive flange back and forth until the stuck impeller frees up.

Now...... if it's the shaft/bearing that is siezed up (preventing stuck impeller movement), you'll need to take other measures.

When/if you are able to remove it, take a good look at the impeller cam and at the two impeller thrust surfaces.
If you see any scoring or grooves, you will want to replace the entire pump.


BTW, the Johnson F5B-9 and F6B-9 should be a direct replacement and for less money, but with no sacrifice to quality.
Either the P 105 or the Johnson are reverse capable.





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they make pullers similar to light duty gear pullers....

A torch is another option though it may require a few more parts...
 
Makes you wonder how guys get them out without taking the pump off of the engine. I did get the impeller out of the recently removed pump but I knew before I tried that the bearing and seal were shot. I always assumed that these things self center in the installation process. Maybe that is incorrect as this one seems pretty pounded.

As for the impeller I am trying to get one out of a pump that has been off for three years or so, but had a good bearing and seal back then, just a stuck impeller. Can't budge that dude. Time to get out the torch and smell the burnt rubber impeller? If the seals are rubber I will likely trash those if I try this route.
 
they can't "self center" due to the eccentric....the impeller is likely to have taken a set after that long and could just be 'stuck' to the housing....you could put the cover on and fill the housing with water to see if it helps free the impeller....if the impeller is stuck on the shaft, the keyway could be worn - reversing the normal shaft rotation may help there....you can always save the torch for the last resort - and yes, highly likely to take the seal and maybe the bearing too...
 
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CaboJohn said:
Makes you wonder how guys get them out without taking the pump off of the engine. I did get the impeller out of the recently removed pump but I knew before I tried that the bearing and seal were shot. I always assumed that these things self center in the installation process. Maybe that is incorrect as this one seems pretty pounded.
With the Sherwood that you have, the impeller is centered within the housing. The impeller cam puts a side load against the impeller.

(because of NO cam, the Merc impellers are eccentrically positioned)

As for the impeller I am trying to get one out of a pump that has been off for three years or so, but had a good bearing and seal back then, just a stuck impeller. Can't budge that dude. Time to get out the torch and smell the burnt rubber impeller? If the seals are rubber I will likely trash those if I try this route.
Sherwood impellers are shaft key driven, and that may be holding it up.
Spray something like WD40 into the area.
Try tapping on the impeller hub in an effort to move the hub on the keyed shaft.
Click to expand...

makomark said:
they can't "self center" due to the eccentric....the impeller is likely to have taken a set after that long and could just be 'stuck' to the housing....you could put the cover on and fill the housing with water to see if it helps free the impeller....if the impeller is stuck on the shaft, the keyway could be worn - reversing the normal shaft rotation may help there....you can always save the torch for the last resort - and yes, highly likely to take the seal and maybe the bearing too...

Yes!
Click to expand...
 
By "self center" I meant that when one uses the three bolts to attach the pump the the crankshaft, the shaft of the pump (and the bearing) are correctly centered to the centerline of the crankshaft so as it spins, there is no wobble in the pump. I thought perhaps lack of correct centering was the cause of the very failed bearing in the pump I removed.
 
John, the Sherwood or Johnson crankshaft mounted seawater pumps (when mated to the crankshaft pulley via the three female threads and three mounting bolts) can be indexed in one of three positions.
However, ONLY ONE position is correct, otherwise it will wobble!

Look closely at the two raised dowells (stamped into the pulley).
These are indexing dowells, of which align the pump's base flange to the pulley causing it to be centered correctly.
(the bolts alone do not center it)



 

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Thanks, Rico. Now that I look at the old pump I see one would have to be an idiot to get it on wrong. But I reach around the engine and for the most part put the pump on blind. Just rotate until it drops in. The old pump has now been replaced (new P-105 runs smooth a silk when I touch it) so I will never know what happened. BUT, the old one clearly has a major bearing failure like I've never seen and during the two years it was on I seemed to have picked up a vibration at around 3200 on that side. Also the anti-rotation arm had self disconnected and slightly bent. The whole thing sounds suspicious.

I decided to do the other engine as well (as I said earlier I cannot get the impeller out without pump removal) so I did order your recommended F5B-9. While it looks interchangeable and well made, it clearly has smaller capacity than the P-105. Guess I should have gotten the F6 for a true replacement (I gather it is a bigger pump). But no savings in the F6 and I was feeling guilty about not being US made, so I have another P-105 coming down with my next visitor.

Thanks again for your help.

In the process of doing this whole thing I took some interesting (to me) pressure readings at various rpm's which I will post if I get some time.

CaboJohn
 
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CaboJohn said:
I decided to do the other engine as well (as I said earlier I cannot get the impeller out without pump removal) so I did order your recommended F5B-9.

While it looks interchangeable and well made, it clearly has smaller capacity than the P-105. Guess I should have gotten the F6 for a true replacement (I gather it is a bigger pump).

John, just to be clear...... the F5B-9 is the small volume pump...... and the F6B-9 is the large volume pump.
Be sure that you replace the P-105 with a "like" volume pump.
The width (not diameter) of the P-105 impeller will shoot you in the right direction re; F5 or F6.
Click to expand...
 
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