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Overheat Alarm during winterization

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wish2fish

Regular Contributor
"was winterizing the boat and

"was winterizing the boat and the overheat alarm started to sound. I had already run on the hose, changed the oil and outdrive lube. Restarted and made sure the engine was up to temp again (170* F). Disconnected water line and connected to 5 gallon tank of antifreeze. Antifreeze was being drawn into the motor but after about 2 gallons the alarm began to sound. Even though the alarm was sounding the antifreeze was still being drawn into the motor. I was using the quicksliver flush muffs connected to antifreeze tank via 5/8" ID hose.

Does anyone see why the alarm would sound on this set up? Is it possible that the impeller is still working but not not up to par?"
 
"Yes you did not do it correct

"Yes you did not do it correctly, you took the "easy way" out.
You burnt up your impeller in the outdrive!

Did you have the 5 gallons high above the outdrive and let gravity feed the antifreeze?

You should be draining the block and manifolds and any other component that need to be drained MANUALLY. If done the correct way there will be no mistakes or failed/ruined parts."
 
5 gallons was up on the swim p

5 gallons was up on the swim platform. I could only find 1 drain plug and it was up by the thermostat.


I guess I should have stated what my motor/drive was. It is a 2003 5.0 liter MPI with Bravo III drive. Impeller is up on the motor.

What do you mean I took the easy way out? This is the way a lot of people winterize their motors.
 
"Running antifreeze thru the n

"Running antifreeze thru the normal incomming water flow DOES NOT guarentee you have displaced all the fresh water with antifreeze.

I dont care what others have "gotten away with"
there is a right way and then there is the way others do it.

Also it does not matter what motor you have, there should always be 2 engine block plugs to drain the water one on each side of the block near the oil pan and one for each manifold. They may or may not be brass, they could be plastic but they should if not have to be there.

The plug near the thermostat was not a drain plug............. drain plugs are down low so the water will drain."
 
"Kghost,
I live in the Cincin

"Kghost,
I live in the Cincinnati, OH area and we don't get below zero very often. I see you are in MA so you might have it a lot colder.

I climbed on the boat to find those plugs. Looks like I have the 3 point manual drain system. 2 plugs on/near the seawater pump and 1 on the lower front port side. Looks like the engine block has hoses that go into the cooling system than having their own drain and didn't see any drains on the exhaust manifolds. Boy are these drain plugs almost impossible to reach on my motor. I can't believe the guys who winterized my motor the last 2 season removed these. I think I will drain through these plugs and then pull the hose from thermostat housing and fill. I will also place a heater on the boat if we get brutally cold weather."
 
It is not the sub zero that is

It is not the sub zero that is the issue and I know it gets below 32 degrees farenhiet in Cinn.
Been there........

All it takes is 2-3 staright days of sub 32' and the block and manifolds will crack.

I think you are on the right path now. And belive me the guys who winterized it before most likely did in fact reach those fittings. I used to be somewhat of a contorshunist when I did it for a living...........believe me. When working on boats for a living it is amazing how flexable you get due to how boat desingers dont consider what it will take to work on the motor when it needs it.
 
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