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OMC Stalling problem

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Firebird69

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I have a 88 bayliner 2455 with a omc 5.7 & cobra outdrive.. everytime I shift from idle to fwd or reverse it stalls .. it will idle all day long if I let it and I can accelerate it in neutral by pushing the button on the shifter and it revs with no problem and stays running at any rpm as long as its in neutral.. had it to a marina 3 times last season and still have the same problem... the complete tune up, points, cap rotor esa module ign coil and carb are all new .. double checked to make sure the choke is opening, have good even compression all cyls, good spark at the plugs all cyls ... im a ase certified mechanic and am especially handy with chevy motors I did all the basics but but this is out of my league was hoping one of the member may have an idea before I put the sale sign on it ... any idea/ help would be appreciated!
 
Yep sounds like a shifting cable alignment issue. More specifically the Electronic Shift Assist, but the cable adjustment is critical for this to work properly. On the starboard side of the engine close to the valve cover is where your cables meet from the outboard and the throttle lever. On this there's a triangular rocker. When you shift, the rocker moves hitting a switch that temporarily stalls the engine. But there's a second switch the rocker hits that disables this stall. It could be that that second switch isn't being triggered, isn't working at all, it could be your ESA module not working properly, or any number of the aforementioned. Take a quick look at it to see if the second switch is even being triggered. That hastings link is heaven though, read it, read it again, print it out, and be sure you understand every step. Then ensure your cables are adjusted properly.
 
To be fair, there is nothing on the Hastings site that is not in the service manual. If you follow one or the other source, you'll be good.
 
"shift from idle to fwd or reverse it stalls" to me would not be the ESA that would come into play Coming OUT of Gear not Going In To Gear, unless the Lower Shift Cable is Bad.

Can you put the Drive in Gear OK when out of the Water? What is your Idle set at? 800rpms? Too low and being a mechanic you know it will stall.. Hows the Idle Mixture you say it can idle all day without issue, but if it's too lean it can idle but as soon as you put a load on it, it would die. Have you tried a Vacuum check, connecting it to the carb or intake? Hows the fuel? Put a sample in a clear clean jar, let it sit for a couple hours and see if there is any water on the bottom or phase separation. Timing Spot on? Any Waver? Advance Ok?
 
kainon said:
"shift from idle to fwd or reverse it stalls" to me would not be the ESA that would come into play Coming OUT of Gear not Going In To Gear, unless the Lower Shift Cable is Bad.

Can you put the Drive in Gear OK when out of the Water? What is your Idle set at? 800rpms? Too low and being a mechanic you know it will stall.. Hows the Idle Mixture you say it can idle all day without issue, but if it's too lean it can idle but as soon as you put a load on it, it would die. Have you tried a Vacuum check, connecting it to the carb or intake? Hows the fuel? Put a sample in a clear clean jar, let it sit for a couple hours and see if there is any water on the bottom or phase separation. Timing Spot on? Any Waver? Advance Ok?
Click to expand...
idle is at 800 rpm, raised it to 900 just to see if stall would go away did the same thing... idle screws are turned out 4 turns per marine rebuild kit instructions.. points are brand new dwell set per the manual, runs like a beast at idle or if you raise the rpm by pushing the round side button on shifter you can raise the idle as far as you want but it cuts right off as soon as you put it in gear , doesn't hesitate of cough just bam cuts right off ... took the keys to the marina that worked on it last they said they are going to take a look at it.. I haven't been able to do anything to it myself the last week between work, the boat being in the slip 100 miles away and its been raining on and off all week
will update when they get back to me with what they say is wrong with it this time.. :mad:
 
600 rpm is good lower even better.

800 to 900 is way to high your gonna kill the dog.

The esa works coming out of gear.

You could try unplugging the 2 micro switchs and then shifting.

The drive got to be submerged.

To come out of gear you will need to shut off the engine and shift back to neutral.
 
as you know 2 things keep an engine running, spark and fuel.

"idle screws are turned out 4 turns per marine rebuild kit instructions" - thats more of a baseline setting, as I'm sure you know every engine is a little different and the best way I know to set them is engine warmed up, running in gear at idle while tied to a dock, but in Neutral works to. Turn the screws in till the engine starts dying out and note that position then turn out till the same thing happens and split the difference. You may need to make it an 1/8 of a turn more rich or lean depending on how it reacts. The 5.7s I've setup were in the 2-2.5 turns range. I'm not saying your way off, but I'd give it a go and see exactly where your at.

I think you need to adjust your idle mixture and here's why. If your setting is too rich the engine will sound nice have good power, then you go to put it in gear and the rpms start dropping but theres too much gas for that rpm and the plugs are on the edge of flooding then they just get too much..

Or you have an electrical issue and when you shift the lower shift cable could be messed up so bad that its causing the shift interupt to activate killing the engine. So as Master Mechanic recommends and probably the quickest way to test is disconnect the micro switchs to the ESA Module then Retest.

I'd also check to be sure you can move the shifter in and out of gear without the engine running ? Maybe disconnect the lower cable @ the engine and try moving the lower cable by hand with and without the engine running, you should be able to move it. You wont be able to fully engage the gears without the engine running, but if the cable doesn't move at all you may be on the way to solving this.

I'd maybe even see about having the boat hauled out and run the boat out of the water and or maybe without the drive.

Good Luck.
 
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