Need help reading wire diagram

[RoJo smith]

This is for my Honda BF50. I'm trying to find a 12V switched lead from the ignition switch going to the lighting switch in the console. From my limited knowledge of wireing diagrams, I think W/Bl and Bl/Y should be on when the key is in the on position and start position. Looking at this diagram, I would expect to get 12V from R/W or Bl/Y with the key switch in the on position. Am I wrong?
Another question My Power Trim/Tilt works even with the key switch in the off position, is that normal?

 

[jgmo]

Hi RoJo,

I will try to help you sort out these questions although I only have a dedicated wiring diagram for a BF50D which is fuel injected and is wired much differently.

BUT...
...I believe that the BF50A diagram you have is almost identical to the one I have for my BF20D and I think most of the Hondas were all very similar in wiring before the later fuel injected models. So, just a little disclaimer to consider in case I goof this up....which wouldn't necessarily be so unusual for me :>/




The tilt being powered with ignition off is normal. Whether you have one, two, three or four tilt switches, they will all be fed by the same "hot at all times" circuit. This allows you to operate the tilt while coasting in shallows with engine off or doing other things like trolling or.standing on the ground and prepping for trailering.

Your screen shot doesn't show it but at the bottom center of the page center should be the IGNITION SWITCH legend box. It indicates that BAT terminal voltage (12v) is supplied to the switch via the W/Bl wire.

You are correct that, when the key is in ON, the Bl/Y wire receives power and, in START, the Bl/Y and Bl/W wires will both receive voltage.

I don't know if the 50A has pull start capability like the 20D. If not, then the ignition portion of the circuit will be different but I don't believe that difference would effect our ability to use either diagram to discuss your lighting question.

So...here's my take on.that:

My short answer to your question is that the R/W wire does NOT receive power from the ignition switch. That wire is intended to deliver power from the lighting switch to the gauge bulbs.

The Bl/Y wire DOES get fed by the ignition switch and delivers that power to the instrument gauge indicators as well as to the lighting switch.

Ok, I hope I got it right and, more importantly, didn't confuse you further.






.

 

[RoJo smith]

That was a great help, thank you for taking the time. I'm not the greatest electrician. Now I have to find out why I'm not geting any power to that Bl/Y wire when the key is on. The previous owner ran a electric cord (what looks like an extension cord) from the battery to the console, and conected the lights and horn. None of the gauges work, but are conected to the wire harnes.
Next chalange is fuse hunting.
Have a great weekend.

 

[jgmo]

Well, I just noticed something that might be important to you and it does have to do with the difference in the diagram you posted and the one I'm using. You should check that out first.

In my diagram, the ignition switch feeds the Bl/Y wire.

But, in your diagram, the Bl/Y wire appears to run down the page PAST the ignition switch. The problem is, I can't follow where it goes because your screenshot cuts off midway down the page.

Take a look at that and tell me what you see. Or, take another screenshot of the lower portion of the page and post it up so I can read it.

 

[RoJo smith]

I replied from my cell phone but looks like that didn't work. I have made progress to day. After spending days staring at this schematic, I havent learned much. Today I pulled out the ignition switch. There is no Bl/Y wire coming off of it. I also checked the fueses near the starter both are good.
Then I went back into the console, looking at the wire harness. All exposed wire looked to be of the correct color matching the schematic. I noticed a bulge under the tape. I started removing the tape. First I found several splices in the wiring simply twisted together and taped over. when I got to the bulge there was a fuse holder with a blown fuse. I didn't have a 10 amp glass fuse, but I did have a blade fuse holder and 10 amp blade fuse. I continued unraping the tape from the harnes so I could splice in the fuse holder and found that all the wires were spliced to completely different colored wires. The Bl/Y wire was a 14 gauge conected through the fuse to a 10 gauge yellow wire The Gr wire was slpiced to another yellow 14 gauge. a Bl/R wire was spliced to three black wires but it was not ground..
It's a mess but I'm getting there. I now have my switched 12V wire and the Gr tach wire I think I can locate the trim gauge wire. then I should be good. Here is the full schematic.
What the heck did we do before computers, internet, and forums.
Thanks so much for sticking with me on this. you have been a big help. Having people like you, in my corner, gives me the confidence to tackle things like this.

 

[jgmo]

Well, based on what you're seeing I don't think I will be of much help. It sounds like someone has been in there.sort of hacking away at things. It definitely sounds confusing to me.

Seems like you're slowly figuring it all out though on your own so I will be watching for your posts about having some progress.

One thing to consider is the Bl/R wire is usually the emergency engine stop circuit. With it spliced in with those black ground wires, I'm guessing that they were wiring around that or something.

When the engine won't shut off with the key because of a shorted ignition switch, people will do that so that they don't have to replace the switch. But...who knows what they mIght have been trying to do or thinking?

Hoping that you get it sorted out without too much more pain. I think you will.

Keep us updated please and good luck.