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Johnson Electrical Issues

You may very well be correct in your diagnosis. But before in nod my head in agreement, I need some very specific answers to some very specific questions.

1. Define "Anywhere". Let's zero in on the ignition switch since you suspect that.

2. Do you have 12V at the Bat terminal on the switch before you turn the key to "Start"? If the answer is no, then the fault is before the switch i.e. between the battery and ignition switch.

3. Do you have 12V at the Bat terminal on the switch, but it goes low or disappears when you turn the key on or to "Start"? If the answer is yes, then the fault is a high resistance somewhere before the ignition switch (Or a dead battery). That most likely would be a wire corroded almost in two, or a corroded wire connection. On that subject, the most likely corroded connection would be the battery cable connection to the battery. You DID remove and clean the battery terminal connections shiny bright and tighten them securely before you started all this.....Didn't you? Could also be the fuse holder contacts not making good connection with the fuse ends.

4. If you have 12V at the Bat terminal on the ignition switch and it REMAINS 12V when you turn the key on or to "Start" position, but there is no or very low 12V on the "S" terminal when you turn key to "Start", then the switch is bad.

Hope this helps. It's been long enough.
 
Positive battery wire is getting warm only when connected to motor. Same thing with sparks. When not connected to motor there is no sparks but there are when it is. Will check ground.
 
do you have another problem open somewhere on this?this is the only explanation for your latest answer that i can think of..this is a simple problem if and ONLY if you will do what is requested for you to do...frdgator gave you specific requests for voltage readings...please follow through and follow his instructions to the 't' and post what you have...an electrical problem at some point needs a logical approach...he gave you one...

i dont mean to sound like a horses ass but thats the only way you are going to fix this problem..
 
Check your positive wire for internal corrosion if it is getting warm when connected being warm means there is high resistance in the wire. Good luck
 
Ok here are the values: 0 at safety switch, 0 at two small picks on solenoid, and about 1 on both wires at the ignition. Would corrosion cause the sparking though? I just measured resistance from terminal to plug and its was almost zero (.2 ohms) which is basically like putting the probes together (.1).
 
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What the heck? What/where did I miss this information? Sparks?? Positive cable getting warm when connected?? Are you telling us that when you connect the positive cable it gets warm and sparks, without doing ANYTHING else?? That indicates a direct short circuit positive to ground. Sorry, I'm having trouble following you. But your voltage readings at the solenoid and switch confirm the power isn't getting there from the battery. No wonder, if the positive cable is shorted to ground. It's a wonder it hasn't melted something or caught fire by now.
On the other hand, I'm wondering if you mean it gets warm when trying to start it. That would indicate a high resistance within the cable. Or maybe the starter is short-circuited inside. Try removing the cable from the starter motor and retest your voltages.
 
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That is correct, it gets warm when plugged into motor regardless of key switch position. When I unplug the 10 pin electric cable from the motor it it is fine with no sparks when connecting to battery. I am getting 13.5 volts at the plug where it connects into the motors internal wiring before the solenoid and what not, so I know the voltage is getting to the motor at least will check on ground at motor etc tomorrow probably... Not sure where to start... It gets really warm. It's the only wire that does I know cause I felt it today.
 
We got a lot of different advice bring thrown at the guy and maybe thats adding to the confusion...but i will throw my approach in...hook every thing up normal except the big wire coming from the battery...the big plug plugged..the key off...everything as if you wanted to run the motor except the battery..see what you read on ohms from the big wire that is not hooked up at the battery to ground... what we need is something that is wrong on the meter so we can logically start isolating..
 
OK, heat at the battery cable says that there is a high current flowing through it, OR...there is a high resistance in it at the point of heat. Sparks indicate a high current. I guess the main point right now is that there should be zero current flowing with the key in off position. Furthermore, you say it goes away with the remote connector plug unplugged. So the question becomes what in the world is shorted to ground from that point forward and back to the motor. And if that whatever-it-is is drawing that much current, why isn't the skinny wire going to it burning up?

I am posting the complete wiring diagram. As you can see, with the key turned off, there is nothing connected to the battery. Except the alternator rectifier. Maybe that is blown? But if it is, and drawing that much current, why aren't the wires burning up? With the key turned on, there are a whole bunch of things connected (all the purple wires) BTW, the diagram confused me for a moment or two until I noticed the big plug is represented by a simple rectangular box.

I'm convinced you have at least a basic knowledge of electricity, but maybe you need some help on this?? It s very difficult for us to know what is wrong from a distance.
 

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No offense intended here. Your problem is a very simple one that a mechanic could trouble shoot and repair in about an hour or so... ie... a simply short, blown rectifier, loose or tight but dirty cable/wire end terminal.

Our suggestions... for some reason may be leading to confusion.

I'd suggest you take your rig to a qualified Evinrude/johnson mechanic as it appears from what I've read that you could easily have that rig suddenly catch fire... and should your rig have a built in fuel tank, that could lead to disaster.
 
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