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Help on BF200 - Overheating

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menicus

New member
Hi guys , i need some help in determining what is the problem with the following:

I owe a Honda BF200 , and recently experienced a continuous beep and temp symbol appeared on display. I have replaced impeller , both thermostats , cleaned both manifolds and still the same problem. Water is flowing good from pee hole. Also removed lower unit and fed a hose directly in pipe with good flow and pressure . Still overheating. Water came out good from thermostats ports. Noted that the starboard manifold is quite hotter than the other. Tried to flush from flush valve and noted that water was not flowing and thaught that there was a flush valve faulty but tried to put compressed air in the elbow after the flush valve and seems blocked. When on idle fault come out after 15mins and when rev or load it will come shorty in 1 to 3 minutes. I am thinking of a blocked passage/water jacket or a stuck poppet valve.? Anyone had this issue before ?

Thanks
 
Hi,
Welcome to the forum.
I'm sorry I have no advice to give that would help but I see that you haven't had any replies yet so I wanted let you know that people ARE reading your post.

You seem to have effectively identified the general area for where your issue is so I hope you can get to the exact cause without too much worry. But, it seems, some disassembly probably needs to happen so I don't envy you that. These things pick up all sorts of items in the cooling system so I'm betting it IS a blockage in that side. I just don't know.

Good luck.
 
When you changed the impeller, were any pieces missing? If you have an IR heat sensor, measure the difference between the port and starboard manifolds to confirm that one is significantly higher than the other.

You may try running it with the starboard t-stat removed, and rev it as much as is safe. The extra pressure may clear the blockage. While the t-stat is out, test it in a pan of hot water. It should start opening at about 140F and be completely open (3 mm) at 160F.

Then check the hose to the starboard pressure relief valve. If no problem there, remove the pressure relief valve and make sure it is not stuck. To remove the pressure relief valve, you only need to remove the two outside bolts. The third bolt in the back just holds the two hales of the pressure relief valve case together.

See diagram at:

Honda Outboard 200HP OEM Parts Diagram for Mount Case | Boats.net

Buy OEM Parts for Honda Outboard 200HP Mount Case Diagram
www.boats.net www.boats.net
 
chawk_man said:
When you changed the impeller, were any pieces missing? If you have an IR heat sensor, measure the difference between the port and starboard manifolds to confirm that one is significantly higher than the other.

You may try running it with the starboard t-stat removed, and rev it as much as is safe. The extra pressure may clear the blockage. While the t-stat is out, test it in a pan of hot water. It should start opening at about 140F and be completely open (3 mm) at 160F.

Then check the hose to the starboard pressure relief valve. If no problem there, remove the pressure relief valve and make sure it is not stuck. To remove the pressure relief valve, you only need to remove the two outside bolts. The third bolt in the back just holds the two hales of the pressure relief valve case together.

See diagram at:

Honda Outboard 200HP OEM Parts Diagram for Mount Case | Boats.net

Buy OEM Parts for Honda Outboard 200HP Mount Case Diagram
www.boats.net www.boats.net
Click to expand...
Tried this procedure , found both poppet valves blocked , removed blockage , worked fine for a little and same problem occured. The starboard manifold is cooler again. Noted that when both poppets were cleaned both manifolds were equally hot. When tried on sea problem occured after 5 mins of load. I think that there is too much things to block !
 
What did the blockage consist of?
If it's salt/minerals then you might have some luck pulling the thermostats and running it in a container of water mixed with vinegar.
Not too long ago, someone here posted how he did that using a trashcan and several gallons of vinegar with success. I'll see if I can find that thread for you.
 
Just for grins, pull codes to confirm. The procedure is attached as well as what the codes mean. Low oil pressure will also give a continuous alarm.
 

Attachments

  • Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf
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  • MIL Fault Codes Scanned.pdf
    85.1 KB · Views: 2
jgmo said:
What did the blockage consist of?
If it's salt/minerals then you might have some luck pulling the thermostats and running it in a container of water mixed with vinegar.
Not too long ago, someone here posted how he did that using a trashcan and several gallons of vinegar with success. I'll see if I can find that thread for you.
Click to expand...
The blockage consists of the below pictures. Tried multiple times but still blocking poppets after every cleanup. I think that there is too much clogging in the system.

thumbnail_IMG_20230601_175951_resized_20230613_063809825.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20230601_170712_resized_20230613_063809469.jpg
 
So, are you saying that you're just going to give up?

That would be a mistake in my opinion. I have seen blockage much worse than what I'm seeing in your photos.

While I realize it's discouraging that the relief valves are acting as debris traps, I would keep after cleaning it up and possibly trying the vinegar flush that NSDON did.

I don't have a fool proof way of forcing that stuff out but, after the flush, you might try pulling the water pump, stats and those relief valves and use hose pressure to try to backflush the system.

However, if you want a "quick solution" then pulling the engine, removing the cylinder heads and hot tanking the block will get it clean in a jiffy.
Just lotsa $$$$$$$ involved.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
So, are you saying that you're just going to give up?

That would be a mistake in my opinion. I have seen blockage much worse than what I'm seeing in your photos.

While I realize it's discouraging that the relief valves are acting as debris traps, I would keep after cleaning it up and possibly trying the vinegar flush that NSDON did.

I don't have a fool proof way of forcing that stuff out but, after the flush, you might try pulling the water pump, stats and those relief valves and use hose pressure to try to backflush the system.

However, if you want a "quick solution" then pulling the engine, removing the cylinder heads and hot tanking the block will get it clean in a jiffy.
Just lotsa $$$$$$$ involved.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

jgmo said:
Here's the post from NSDON about how he used liters (not gallons as I said) of vinegar to flush his engine.

Post in thread 'BF130 water in oil and questionable compression' https://www.marineengine.com/boat-f...d-questionable-compression.474725/post-746403

HTH,
Good luck.
Click to expand...
I would try this one. Any idea of the ratio of water in relation to vinegar? I was thinking of removing the lower unit feed a hose directly to the input pipe of the motor with a recerculating system in a barrel and will try for hours....
 
I don't know the "formula" for mixing ratios but I would imagine that, if you're not going to actually run the engine, then the more vinegar the better since you won't have to worry about overheating. Although I would probably not do more than 3 parts water to one part vinegar.

But my concern about your idea would be how to get some steady heat into the solution as I think it would definitely be a contributing factor in breaking up those minerals.
 
Vinegar is not a really strong acid, IIRC I used 4 four litre jugs in a barrel. I removed the thermostat. I monitored the barrel water temperature with an IR gun and let it cool down if I got an overheat alarm. The overheat alarm system on these Hondas is very sensitive, not much risk of harm. I ran it at 2000 rpm.
 
Overheating issue solved. The problem was that the hose that connects the lower of the mainfold to the block was had corrosion all around it thus the inner came thinner , thus less water flow !. Tried and tested on water and now ok. Thanks guys for your help , you made me keep going !!!! I need last help from you , do somebody know the procedure to replace the the water tube grommet #6 ? NjM2OTM-a862f5ab.png
 
Menicus,
Way to hang in there and figure that problem out! Good work!

Replacing that grommet is no big deal but getting to it might be hard. I don't know because I've never done one on a big Honda. If you can see it after pulling the water tube then it shouldn't be too difficult. If you have the extra long extension case, that will make it harder. I hope you don't need to pull the case to get to it.

You just may need to make a couple of tools if reach is a problem. I use wooden dowels and pvc pipe to fabricate stuff like that.

There's nothing special about those grommets. They just push into place and the molded in "ribs" hold them in there. You just pry the old out, and push the new one in the hole. Using a little marine grease or even Vaseline to lube the ribs might help get it to slide into place. Once the water tube is properly installed, the grommet can't back out.

Good luck.
 
I removed it by making some tool and some welded fishing hook in the front , easily came out as it was worn out as well. I can do the same thing to replace but i prefer to remove the extension case if there is a possible way to remove and have an easy access and also check visually the state of the oil pan.
 
Well, I think removing the case and inspecting the pan is probably a good idea but I can't offer any tips on removing the extension case. You don't have the shop manual?
With you doing all this work, would be a good investment if you plan to keep the outboard.
 
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