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Ford 351 problems

gregga

New member
Hey guys,

I have a ford 351 in my 25' whitewater with a volvo commander outdrive. I have been having a lot of problems with the engine lately. It started off with the bellhousing bearings which required removal of the engine, once re-installed I purchased a new holley 600cfm electric choke carburetor and installed new sierra manifolds and riser and a new coil. but I'm having problems with the boat shutting off. It will run all day on the hose perfectly, and for the first twenty minutes the boat is in the water in runs beautiful but within 20-25minutes of the boat running at idle speed it shuts off. Then itll start right back up and run consistent for 5 minutes then shuts off, then its a little bit harder to fire up again but eventually will and run for about two minutes, then itll take about twenty minutes for it to fire up again. We replaced the coil cause it was getting hot so we thought it was the coil but it still didn't solve the problem. I was thinking maybe its the condensor in the distributor? Any help is greatly appreciated. its been 6 months off the water. Thank you
 
I was thinking maybe its the condensor in the distributor?
If you have a condensor in the distributor, this would be a ketering system.... (points). Consider an upgrade to electronic triggering.
Make sure that your ignition components are a match for one another.

And make dang certain that you time the ignition for TA as per your OEM specs, and not just BASE advance only.

.
 
Was also going to check the resistor? The original stock coil (whihc was getting really hot and couldn't even touch after 15 minutes) was replaced with an accel coil which stays cool now. But the stock coil required an external resistor which we couldn't find anywhere on the engine and the new coil contains an internal resistor so I'm wondering if it could the lack of the resistor? Or the fact now it has a resistor which we can't find and i'm running a resistor with an internally resisted coil?
 
Was also going to check the resistor? The original stock coil (whihc was getting really hot and couldn't even touch after 15 minutes) was replaced with an accel coil which stays cool now. But the stock coil required an external resistor which we couldn't find anywhere on the engine and the new coil contains an internal resistor so I'm wondering if it could the lack of the resistor? Or the fact now it has a resistor which we can't find and i'm running a resistor with an internally resisted coil?

Ayuh,... Have ya checked the voltage at the (+) terminal on the coil,..?? 12v,..??

Have ya changed the Points,..??

Set the Dwell,..?? Timin',..??

Like I said elsewhere, Ya gotta do the Checkin', When it quits to find the problem...

Guessin' seems to be gettin' ya Nowhere....
 
What is your opinion about 1987 Ford E250 with 351 Windsor?

What is your opinion about 1987 Ford E250 with 351 Windsor? It's actually a motor-home I am thinking about buying. I know Ford 351 windsor aren't bad engines but I know little about Fords in 1987. Or if they were problematic. So far I am not finding facts or much for reviews for that model year.
Is this a Marine Engine related question... as in using a 1987 Ford E250 351 Windsor in your boat....., or a Motor Home related question?

If Marine related, it will best serve you and the forum to start a new thread for your question. :D

.
 
welp put the new coil in, it is a stock electronic ignition system. and the boat would run on the hose for maybe 5 minutes then conch out again. dont know where to look now.
 
seems to me you need to figure out if your issue is lack of fuel or lack of spark...assuming the engine is in decent condition and has been tuned up lately...

An easy way to check for spark is with a clip on timing light...non-invasive and quick to do. If the spark is occurring when the engine dies, it could be too much fuel or not enough...I'd start with a fuel pressure gauge to ensure you have enough fuel being delivered to the carb...
 
Hey guys,
but I'm having problems with the boat shutting off. It will run all day on the hose perfectly, and for the first twenty minutes the boat is in the water in runs beautiful but within 20-25minutes of the boat running at idle speed it shuts off. Then itll start right back up and run consistent for 5 minutes then shuts off, then its a little bit harder to fire up again but eventually will and run for about two minutes, then itll take about twenty minutes for it to fire up again. We replaced the coil cause it was getting hot so we thought it was the coil but it still didn't solve the problem. I was thinking maybe its the condensor in the distributor?

I agree wtih Mark. I'll suggest that you use the P of E (process of elimination). One item, and one item ONLY at a time.
The P of E won't let you down when applied systematically and methodically.

BTW.... which ignition system is this? Electronic conversion??? or another style/type???

This info may help one of us diagnose.


***********************



I just now caught this:
Hey guys,
It started off with the bellhousing bearings which required removal of the engine,
Most Ford 5/0L and 5.8L Volvo Penta installations use a single bearing PDS... IF the flywheel cover is a 1 pc unit............ in which case the engine Does NOT need to be removed to replace the bearing.

Here's an exampler of a 1 pc, single bearing PDS Ford 5.0L and 5.8L "Flywheel Cover".


$(KGrHqJ,!pgE7Bcvh2mHBO+O(nnKBg~~60_12.JPG



Below is a much later F/C..... but is very similar schematically.
Both Ford and GM engines eventually used the single bearing PDS.

Note the pilot nose and single bearing PDS.

Either style single bearing PDS requires the pilot nose bushing (SEQ #12) within the aft end of the crankshaft.
(I'm simply mentioning this in the event that you weren't aware of the pilot nose bushing requirement.
I've pulled these apart over the years and have found NO bushing.)





12121.jpg




If Borg Warner style PDS adapter, then it will use a double bearing PDS.... in which case the engine must be removed to replace the bearings.

The F/C will look similar to this Borg Warner pattern F/C (minus the rear mount ears)

FMWVDC70A.JPG


..... and the PDS adapter housing would look similar to this.

attachment.php





Good luck with the engine stalling issue. You'll find it! :D


.
 
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holley carbs....especially ones that are installed on boats....MUST, have their floats adjusted...while they are on the water, and running. i have a lot of experience with holley carbs, and power tuning. i also have a lot of track time racing the 351m,c, and w engines. what city are you in ?
 
I'm thinking that a 25' Whitewater boat with what's being called a Volvo Penta "Commander" out drive, the term "Commander" would suggest a 70's boat, correct?

Most likely this would have been equipped with a standard points type ignition system, however, Gregga does say that it is a "stock" electronic ignition system. But which one?
Could be an old Prestolite w/ a Hall Effect unit....... or, it could be an old converted Mallory.

Unless he tells us, aren't we guessing at which electronic ignition system he now has?

He also says: a new Holley 600cfm electric choke carburetor has been installed.
Gregga, how was the Helix heating element circuit connected and powered?
What is the resistance of this circuit?


gregga said:
Or the fact now it has a resistor which we can't find and i'm running a resistor with an internally resisted coil?
It would be important to find the circuit voltage, and let this voltage determine the coil type. Let the triggering unit type determine it's voltage.
You may require two voltages: one for the coil and one for the triggering unit.

Point being; I think that in order to help diagnose an Ignition issue, we need more info.



holley carbs....especially ones that are installed on boats.... MUST, have their floats adjusted...while they are on the water, and running. i have a lot of experience with holley carbs, and power tuning. i also have a lot of track time racing the 351m,c, and w engines.
FYI: Unless Holley has brought this feature back, the Marine version Holley does NOT offer the external float adjustment "sight" or "peep" holes, as does the Automotive version....... I wish that that still did!

HLY0-80318-2.JPG




Gregga, can you post photos of your ignition system for us?
Any P/N's?

.
 
Hey guys,

I have a ford 351 in my 25' whitewater with a volvo commander outdrive. I have been having a lot of problems with the engine lately. It started off with the bellhousing bearings which required removal of the engine, once re-installed I purchased a new holley 600cfm electric choke carburetor and installed new sierra manifolds and riser and a new coil. but I'm having problems with the boat shutting off. It will run all day on the hose perfectly, and for the first twenty minutes the boat is in the water in runs beautiful but within 20-25minutes of the boat running at idle speed it shuts off. Then itll start right back up and run consistent for 5 minutes then shuts off, then its a little bit harder to fire up again but eventually will and run for about two minutes, then itll take about twenty minutes for it to fire up again. We replaced the coil cause it was getting hot so we thought it was the coil but it still didn't solve the problem. I was thinking maybe its the condensor in the distributor? Any help is greatly appreciated. its been 6 months off the water. Thank you
I think I have a similar situation and could use some help. 1979 Carver 27' with a 351W engine and a Volvo outdrive. I replaced the distributor and cables for the distributor last year which was very helpful. I also replaced the 40AMP fuse on the the top/back of the engine block this year on general principals and because of my issue... My problem is this. The engine is hard to start, but once started it will run OK at idle (~1000rpm) at the dock for between 60 and 90 seconds then trip the 40AMP breaker on the engine block which kills everything electrical on the boat. I can reset the breaker and restore battery power OK, but I have not tried to start the engine a second time. There are no other loads when I start the engine. What could be causing the breaker to trip? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
 
Ayuh,..... Don't expect much help, hy-jackin' an 11 year old thread,.......

Start a new thread, 'n explain yer problem, 'n the details of yer motor/ drive,.....
 
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