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few technical questions. Need help/advice.

T

tonyd9448

New member
Hello all, I recently moved down to Florida and once I got down here I got the boat itch. I found a 1993 Wellcraft eclipse 196, and it seemed to be in pretty good shape. I was hesitant about buying an I/O because I've heard they're a lot more hassle to work on, but the guy I bought the boat from gave me a good deal, and has been pretty cool through the whole thing. He told me if I had any issues to give him and call and he'd come over and help me out, and he did yesterday...seems legitimate. Anyways, here's the deal; I am pretty mechanical, and know how to use the internet and service manuals and what not, so I decided to take on some of the maintenance myself. Here's a list of the things I've done or need advice on.

1991 (or 1993) Mercruiser 4.3LX with alpha one gen 2 outdrive

- I replaced the fuel pump (old one was leaking), and I can't get the flare fitting from the pump to the carb to quit leaking at the pump. I took the fitting apart and cleaned it up real good to make sure that the steel fuel line would sit flush in the copper fitting, but it still leaks just a TINY TINY bit....but that's still not safe. Any suggestions?

- I pulled the lower unit and changed the impeller and gaskets, etc..... I used the pump thing and filled the fluid from the bottom and all of that, and everything went back together fine. Now when I put the boat into gear it almost sounds like a slight clunk WHILE it's IN (not going into gear like normal) gear at low RPM's. Is it possible that the shift link is out of adjustment now that I pulled the two parts apart?? Does it take some time for the new fluid to get circulated and into all of the gears and maybe that's what I hear??

- The boat doesn't seem to get up to operating temperature. The previous owner said that normally you can watch it warm up to 150 degrees and then watch the temp gauge drop a few degrees and then continue to go through this cycle as the thermostat opens and closes. Now it doesn't seem to get up to 150F...but it doesn't overheat....I'm wondering if I should just take it out on the water and see how it does, or should I check the thermostat? It's quite possible that with salt water running through it, the thermostat is just stuck open, right?

- When I took off one of the cooling line hoses, I found a LOT of rust/buildup inside the metal parts....I've read around that this is normal with a boat ran in salt water, and it's best to just leave it alone and not try to clean it with acid and what not because it makes the parts too thin....does anyone have any experience with this? Advice?

Thanks all. If anyone needs any pics just let me know and I can go take some.
 
**********I replaced the fuel pump (old one was leaking), and I can't get the flare fitting from the pump to the carb to quit leaking at the pump. I took the fitting apart and cleaned it up real good to make sure that the steel fuel line would sit flush in the copper fitting, but it still leaks just a TINY TINY bit....but that's still not safe. Any suggestions?*************

Purchase a new fuel line from the pump to carb(?) to replace the leaking one.....most likely a hairline crack at the compression point.


-*********** I pulled the lower unit and changed the impeller and gaskets, etc..... I used the pump thing and filled the fluid from the bottom and all of that, and everything went back together fine. Now when I put the boat into gear it almost sounds like a slight clunk WHILE it's IN (not going into gear like normal) gear at low RPM's. Is it possible that the shift link is out of adjustment now that I pulled the two parts apart?? Does it take some time for the new fluid to get circulated and into all of the gears and maybe that's what I hear?? ****************

When you did the work did you remove the drive or just dropped the lower unit?
If you removed the drive did you put it into FOWARD gear before removing?

If it shifted cleanly before and no clunking was heard and now there is then look at the shift linkage where the steel 90 degree shaft comes up from the lower and engages into the shift linkage Upside down U at the gimbal housing. See how much slop there is. the bent lower shift arm should be fairly tight in the U. If there is 1/16" slop then a pair of pliers and close the U tighter.

Second does this happen going into forward or reverse, typicaly not both....
 
kghost said:
**********I replaced the fuel pump (old one was leaking), and I can't get the flare fitting from the pump to the carb to quit leaking at the pump. I took the fitting apart and cleaned it up real good to make sure that the steel fuel line would sit flush in the copper fitting, but it still leaks just a TINY TINY bit....but that's still not safe. Any suggestions?*************

Purchase a new fuel line from the pump to carb(?) to replace the leaking one.....most likely a hairline crack at the compression point.


-*********** I pulled the lower unit and changed the impeller and gaskets, etc..... I used the pump thing and filled the fluid from the bottom and all of that, and everything went back together fine. Now when I put the boat into gear it almost sounds like a slight clunk WHILE it's IN (not going into gear like normal) gear at low RPM's. Is it possible that the shift link is out of adjustment now that I pulled the two parts apart?? Does it take some time for the new fluid to get circulated and into all of the gears and maybe that's what I hear?? ****************

When you did the work did you remove the drive or just dropped the lower unit?
If you removed the drive did you put it into FOWARD gear before removing?



If it shifted cleanly before and no clunking was heard and now there is then look at the shift linkage where the steel 90 degree shaft comes up from the lower and engages into the shift linkage Upside down U at the gimbal housing. See how much slop there is. the bent lower shift arm should be fairly tight in the U. If there is 1/16" slop then a pair of pliers and close the U tighter.

Second does this happen going into forward or reverse, typicaly not both....
Click to expand...


Thanks, I think I will try and new fuel line or maybe the brass fitting (whichever one is cheaper I'll start there).

When I did the work on the outdrive I just pulled the lower unit off. I DID have it in FWD when I pulled it off, and then again when I put it back on. I'll go out there and check to see if there's any play in the shift linkage like you suggested. I'll have to wait a while though because it's POURING outside right now....
 
If the clunking occurs when shifting into reverse, there is a slot at the short shift linkage arm.(on the engine side where both short and long cables meet)
This is adjustable. so if reverse clunks, adjust the shift point towards the cable end of the arm. If it is clunking going inot forward then adjust it towards the pivot point. ~ 1/4" movement should be enough in either direction........try this . If this does not work, then the short shift cable could be bad.
 
Regarding the rust, that's a sign that you will have a visit soon from Big Bill. Maybe you can go a while longer but sooner or later the exhaust manifold/s and maybe the thermostat housing will have to be replaced. No such thing as a bargain/cheap boat. Not getting up to operating temp means the thermostat is not working.
 
Ask the PO when the Sierra. Use Osco or Barr manifolds. Pull the thermostat cover off and look at the rusted mess...the thermostat will be rusted in place by the hsg. Pry it out and dress the housing w/a dremel tool. Pull each cooling hose off and inspect the nipples for corrosion clogs (rusticles) and clean as needed.

If you trailer the boat then you need to flush the engine each time to extend its life...use a saltaway system. Merc makes an engine spray to reduce external corrosion. The 4.3L is a great little powerplant.
 
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