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2006 bf 225 basically in a bolt tub

J

jodobbs70

New member
I rescently got a 2006 bf 225.
It’s on a 206 podded double eagle
It’s surging at idle from 500 to 1000 rpm.
It goes into a 1 second on /of alarm within 10 seconds of running.
I got fed up and planted it. Alarm went away

Another issue is when it stops screaming at me in the one second bleep and all is well it won’t get over 4200 rpm.
I know it’s propped right.
I’m 185 across the board
My freind has identical boat.

I know I have more than one issue.
I’m leaning towards an 02 sensor giving the stink rich smell and terrible milage. I’m hoping this is the beep.
I have no lights except the green oil light which stays on.
Water separators good. Internal and external.
And the lack of go is probably the hp fuel pump.
Side note, plugs are white indicating lean fuel.

Fuel pump and o2?
 
First, see the first attached document showing alarms and lights that will help you hone in on the problem.

Next, see if you have any fault codes. The 2nd document shows you the proper procedure for pulling and clearing fault codes. The third document tells you what the codes mean. A code "1" CAN be a faulty HO2 sensor, but could also be a misfiring plug, a failing coil, or fuel pressure out of spec.

Have you changed the HP fuel filter? That is the main source of performance problems on these engines.

Then come back at us with what you find.
 

Attachments

  • Alarms BF 225.pdf
    25.9 KB · Views: 8
  • Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf
    189.6 KB · Views: 5
  • MIL Fault Codes Scanned.pdf
    85.1 KB · Views: 5
I have only the red and green light.
Oil and heat.
I’ve checked the seperAtor and it’s good. I confirmed by flipping it over with key in the run position and it gives the alarm.
Same alarm as it gives me when I start motor. So it’s not water.
All filters are new.
I’ve ordered the hp pump and the o2 sensor.
No lights when alarms sounding except the constant green oil light.
 
OOPs! You get the same rapid beeping when you test the onboard fuel-water separator as you get normally? To confirm - it's a very rapid beeping, maybe 2 beeps per second? If so, that tells me that the circuit is closed, which it should not be if there is no water in it. So, the wire connector plug to the float switch is corroded, or the float is stuck. If you unplug it, you should not get the alarm.
 
chawk_man said:
OOPs! You get the same rapid beeping when you test the onboard fuel-water separator as you get normally? To confirm - it's a very rapid beeping, maybe 2 beeps per second? If so, that tells me that the circuit is closed, which it should not be if there is no water in it. So, the wire connector plug to the float switch is corroded, or the float is stuck. If you unplug it, you should not get the alarm.
Click to expand...
No it’s a one second on one second off.
But when I flip the seperAtor upside down it gives the same alarm with the key in the run position. Then flip right way up and alarm stops. So I know it’s functioning.
I did get a bad batch of fuel and then these issues started.

Replaced all filters and problem remains.
As far as not surpassing 4200, it never has. I suspect hp pump.
Will theo2 sensor cause the motor to surge at idle and smell rich.

Also the plugs are white indicating a lean condition(hp pump)
 
Well, OK. But for the record, when the on-board F/W separator is activated, it is a rapid beep - about two beeps every second. The one beep per second will typically be a problem in the programmed fuel injection system or the alternator. It is possible that the alarm for the PGM-FI is overriding the alarm from the F/W separator. Thus, your test of the fuel water separator is not being registered.

Without the four-light key switch, you are just shooting in the dark. If at all possible you need to find someone with the Dr. H or HDS computer to pinpoint the problems.

OK - "batch of bad fuel." Have you drained the VST? If not, do so. Drain it all. If a slow drain, you can activate the key switch for about 2 seconds which will make the HP fuel pump pressurize it.

Do you have an external fuel/water separator? If so, drain it and/or replace the filter.

If none of that helps, you will need to measure the fuel pressure. Fit your fuel pressure gauge to the pressure relief bolt on the cover of the HP fuel filter. You will need a 6 mm adapter for your fuel gauge. Unplug the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and clamp it. Start the engine and let it warm up. At idle (600 rpm +/- 50), fuel pressure should be between 42 and 49 PSI. If higher, you will need to pull the fuel pressure regulator and clean it thoroughly with WD-40, alcohol, or gasoline. I've been told that there is a fuel screen inside there and that needs to be cleaned.

If none of that works, then expect to pull the HP fuel pump and the plastic holder it sits in. It's a PITA. Expect to replace that holder because many times you will break it in the process of removing. On the bottom of that holder, there is another fuel screen that can get clogged up and degrade performance. Just be aware that these Honda HP fuel pumps are very robust and seldom fail. And when they do fail, they fail completely, so I doubt that the HP fuel pump itself is the problem.

Finally, a disclaimer. I am not a marine tech. My knowledge is based on doing my own maintenance and repair on my 2007 BF 225 (currently 2350 hours) and all of the stuff I've been reading on this forum for the last 14 years.
 
I here ya chaulk man. And appreciate your experience.
Tore the vst down yesterday, spotless.
Plastic case spotless.
On my 06 I know the water in fuel is single tone one second as I confirmed by activating float in the key/run position. After the bad fuel I drained both internal and ray or external. The alarm silenced. Ran for another 1 hour period same alarm.
Checked seperater. Good. Confirmed by inverting. Alarm sounded. Reverted, alarm gone. Started motor. Ran 30 seconds, alarm, same alarm. Beeeeeep, beeeeep Ect.
Is the one second alarm usually an 02 sensor.
I do back troll a bit but exhaust ports don’t go under much. Motor is 12 inches above exhaust ports at a dead spot
 
Again, without the four-light key switch, you are just shooting in the dark. If at all possible you need to find someone with the Dr. H or HDS computer to pinpoint the problems. If you are going to keep this boat and try to do your own maintenance and repair, I recommend two things - buy the official Helm shop manual and install a new harness with the four-light key switch, which you can buy directly from Honda Marine.

On these vintage engines, a bad HO2 sensor does not throw an alarm. If you pull the plugs and they have black soot on them that's a good indicator, but not definitive.
 
Ok. So I took it to my shop here to be scanned.
It seems likely the map sensor is pooched. Can’t really confirm this without the break out box/harness thingy. My mechanic says he can ohm all the systems and ecu but it will take hours. He suggested ordering a map sensor from Amazon cause they are cheap. He also mentioned there might be a bad wire in the harness.
I got the sensor from Amazon and the boat won’t start now.
I’m trying to find the values for voltage on the map sensor to test and confirm a bad sensor. Does anyone have them.
I have a vacume gauge and meter to do tests but need the peramiters.
I would like to confirm the sensors bad before I go buying a honda map sensor that isn’t even availible in Canada.
Any body have the values or a shop manual they could email me?
Thanks guys.
It’s hot here on Vancouver island and the salmon are thick. This is becoming a nightmare.
Thanx
 
chawk_man said:
MAP test procedure attached.
Click to expand...
Awsome. Thanks.
Test confirmed the Amazon map sensor to be garbage.
Test also confirm 5v on reference side but 2.76-2.96 on signal side.
Question is, doesthat mean my ecu is done. ?
The way the procedure is written has me confused.
Mine is reading 3.1 volts.
Is there a procedure for testing my ecu, or should I be looking for a break is a wire. There’s a lot of wires lol.
Thanks
 
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