Naturetrax
New member
Please take a read - 2nd Time on Forum asking for help so I'll try to keep it brief. After repairing lower unit seals and water pump and while testing boat several times I noticed engine quick start running very high and long. I was able to run boat twice on a lake and I've been messing with idle to get it back where it was prior to problems but while doing this at home on muffs it started and ran really high rpms again then coughed and ran rough and died. Next attempt it would not start - No Spark. Plugs wet and tested bottom cylinders getting No Spark. Now engine won't start or starts on 2 cylinders on muffs and then dies after 10 secs. I pulled flywheel and stator looks fine and tested it with ohm meter getting 1000 ohms on brown - brown/yellow and 50 ohms on orange-orange/black. I swapped ignition coils and that doesn't change problem - still no spark on bottom cylinders. I get 0 ohms (closed circuit) on both top and bottom - left and right primary orange ignition coil contacts and ground. I get 300 ohms on primary coil contact and corresponding spark plug lead which I think seems correct. I cleaned optical eye's with isopropyl lens wipe and they look ok. Tested kill switch and it works, Tested Quick Start thermal sensor port side and it works when heated, starboard thermal sensor? but seems good too. So I ask those with experience and outboard smarts - what else can be causing this problem other than the power pack. Anyone with a manual who can verify my ohm tests as good. I don't want to buy a $250-300 power pack if it is not the problem nor do I want to buy one and then fry it with some faulty stray ignition switch voltage or ?? Thanks for any advice and know I appreciate it as I'm finding it difficult to get a marine mechanic who is willing to work on my 26yr old motor.