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1956 30hp Lark

Cballer

New member
I’ve got a 1956 30hp lark I’ve got powerhead off right now and exhaust loading tube assembly is missing.
Motor runs great. Couple people have said part number is 376330 which is unavailable , my manual shows 376786 which is just a flat plate with no tubes but in diagram it shows plate having tubes.

Is anyone familiar with this, or know the function of this assembly?

I could post a couple pictures if this helps.

Thank you
 
So if I blank it off like p/n 376786 is made will this harm motor?
Exhaust of cylinders can still enter leg of motor. Or does exhaust have to go out taddle tail where water exhaust goes?

Thanks for replying helpful on muffler
 
We seem to have two threads from different people on the same subject. Other one on a 1955 25 hp.

The loading plate/tubes is attached to the exhaust housing, not the powerhead. Yes the powerhead has to be removed to access it, if you wish to do so. As for harming the motor, it is there as a muffler. Other than more noise, the absence doesn't harm anything. I would have to do some research to figure out if any other changes were made when they went from the tubes to a flat plate. I'll see what I can find.
 
Would you like a bit of history info? If you are old enough, (very old)), we used to pull a practical joke on our friends (or not so friends). We would pound a raw potato up into the tailpipe of their car. The exhaust couldn't get out so the car wouldn't start, or if it did start, blow potato out.

Relating to the outboard, the motor is sitting there in the lake, and the exhaust housing is half full of water. The motor can't start without blowing the water out. OR, as is the case with most outboards, a relief route is provided for the exhaust to get out. That would be the port in the backside of your 30 hp. Once the motor is running, the exhaust relief would be noisy, so methods of quieting it down are provided. That would be the muffler as such, built into the exhaust housing.
 
Haha we did the potato or banana once or twice😉

I’ll have to pull bottom end to actually verify if there’s an alternate route for exhaust but feel the water is there. If there’s no alternate route for engine exhaust to go out where water exhaust does maybe I should drill a 1.000” hole in 376786 plate?
 
If the problem you suggest existed, they wouldn't have superseded the solid plate as a direct replacement for the tubes
 
So I’ve ran 56’ with blank plate in replacement of exhaust tube assembly.. top cylinder is reading 20deg C hotter where before with no plate they ran within 5 degrees of each other.
Top plug has lost its shinny chrome color on outside like it’s almost too hot??
27 deg water , bottom cylinder 60 deg max, 80 deg on top cylinder!

Thoughts?
 
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