Tilt trim

1979 johnson 115-115tl79r. i

1979 johnson 115-115tl79r. i am an auto mechanic and ive never been inside a tilt trim unit. its leaking around the trim posts it bleeds off slooow but it bleeds off nonetheless can i just replace the seals or o-rings at the posts or do i need to rebuild the whole thing? will i need special tools or just take it to a reputable shop?

SELOC manual for your year mod

SELOC manual for your year model should walk you through the rebuild process easy enough. If You have enough mechanic experience it should not require many specialty tools or experience if you are mechanically enclined.

If one is not so mechanically

If one is not so mechanically inclined what would parts and labor probably run to replace the power trim unit on a 1985 johnson 70 hp..in Florida panhandle area....at least a good guess...have found a decent boat rig and this seems to be the only real issue.

"I found kits for mine for 16-

"I found kits for mine for 16-22$ depending on brand and where you look. have no idea about labor costs, lots of parts inside though. i found a diagram on boats.net, but not a step by step instruction. im going to buy a book and maybe with a little luck and a lot of patience it will work out. rebuilt tilt/trim units about 800$. cmc makes an after market for 500-600$, but i read jwbmarine and another guy discussing added stress from change in the fulcrom point."

"that would only be an issue,w

"that would only be an issue,w/an already weakend transom.on a good solid transom,that is not a problem at all."

where would you look to see i

where would you look to see if maybe you have a weak transom. my boat is a 1978 venture rendezvous 3.

"with your eng tilted up,....g

"with your eng tilted up,....grab the lower unit,and put some body weight on it,back and forth,trying to flex transom.,look for splitting on corners,cracks etc."

thanks for the info. if it doe

thanks for the info. if it does flex with no cracks should it be reinforced or is a little flex ok?

"David.... All you need is a s

"David.... All you need is a spanner wrench that will grab the holes in the trim caps to unscrew them, then simply replace the seals etc.

Have the engine tilted up fully and locked in place, then back out the manual release valve 2 turns..... 2 turns only, to release any hydraulic pressure.

INstall the seals etc, then screw those caps back in place. Being an auto mechanic, it does not require rocket secience mentality.

You will need:

2 - 321715 - Back Up Rings
2 - 319662 - O Rings
2 - 122494 - Wiper Seals
2 - 553127 - O rings

After assembly, tighten manual release valve, fill with fluid, run up and down 4 or 5 times (self bleeding), top off reservoir. That's it.

Let us know how you make out.

When time permits, visit my eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"

"wow part #s and everything i

"wow part #s and everything i really appreciate your help, will be visiting your website real soon for parts, when the wife says i can, thank you thank you thank you."

"I don't have the parts yo

"I don't have the parts you need for that trim right now, but visit anyway.... No Charge (grin)."

i still appreciate your help a

i still appreciate your help and directions. by the way where is the release valve? is it the allen head screw thats real hard to get to without a 6" allen wrench? and i just came from your store and was just fixin to ask where to find the orings and seals. thank you very very much

Look at the bottom side area o

Look at the bottom side area of the starboard transom bracket. There is a hole there. Inside that hole you will see a slot for a screwdriver. That is the manual release valve.

"thank you very much. do you c

"thank you very much. do you carry parts like these very often? ill keep an eye on your site, after all i have a fixer upper. thanks again."

trim fixed somewhat.took maybe

trim fixed somewhat.took maybe 10 mins and under 20$. still drops about 1" in bout 30 mins. fluid looked like it was a tad milky. probably from the leak? is there a simple way to drain and refill. couldnt find a drain (maybe im blind). but no more drip. thanks a million and i mean it you saved me buying a after market. it came apart just as easy as u said.

also the part 122494 didnt fit

also the part 122494 didnt fit its diameter was too large but my diagram i found a month ago shows same. maybe it was in the wrong bin at parts store they only had one. it looks like the same diameter as the tilt shaft.thanks again!

"122494 is the proper number f

"122494 is the proper number for the trim wipers. The store gave you the wrong one.

The leak down of 1" in 30 minutes? I assume you're saying that it would drop down 3" in 90 minutes? If so, something is still sticking, leaking internally, something.

The milky substance indicates that water has entered the unit and this could possibly be causing one of the valves to not seat just perfectly. Possibly this will heal itself.

Inside that hole where the manual release valve is, there should be an internal retaining snap ring. Remove it, then you can back out and remove the manual release valve completely to drain the system. DO NOT attempt to remove that valve if the snap ring is still in place!

With the engine tilted and locked in place, you'll be able to see a large slotted check valve on the left rear portion of the unit. Removing that valve and the shuttle valve inside will also allow you to drain fluid.

With those two valves removed (manual release and shuttle), you can manually drop and raise the unit to pump out the contaminated fluid.

Let us know how you make out."

works great im eternally grate

works great im eternally gratefull. hasnt moved even .10". pumping fluid out pretty dificult with a hydrofoil on back. thanks a million!