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DF300AP intermittent no engine data, 3-2 fault code and no start

S

SouthFloridaFishing

New member
Hello all,

With battery switches and ignition key on, I'm seeing port engine "no data" but it's intermittent. I also see 3-2 fault and at times normal screen. Engine also wont crank but when I jumper the starter solenoid it cranks normally but doesn't start. Since issue started starboard engine won't start either, but doesn't show any faults. I went through harness and verified can hi & low are connected through harness to BCM and 120 ohm resistors are good. Voltage is 12.8, batteries, main switches and cables have all been replaced. Positive and negative at ECM are good and connectors all appear clean. The white wire was connected directly to battery and discharged the battery when left for an extended period. I connected it to the battery switch after realizing it was draining the battery. The ECM was disconnected from battery power for approximately 60 days. When I access port engine settings using multifunction gauge model # 34200-96L61 options are limited. I was told an ECM might require reinitialization but nothing in the settings indicates I'm able to do that. Setup seems to be locked behind a dealer code. The engines are 2021 but the display states 2023. Transom sticker CAN ICES-2/NMB-2. The engine ID tag DF300AP 30002P- 242224. Has anyone run into a similar issue and what resolved it. Or does anyone have any suggestions on what I might test next or possibly replace? I thought the display might be an issue so I swapped them and then starboard engine started displaying no engine data. When I called the local dealer asking about a replacement gauge the technician conveyed the port is most likely the master and swapping gauges is why it appeared when connected to the starboard engine harness. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
<p>Twins, and both acting up at once... that is the part I would chase first. Whatever they share. Grounds, the harness run between them, or the one gauge that is acting as master.</p><p><br></p><p>Put a meter across CAN hi and CAN lo at the diagnostic plug. Key off, harness still connected. You are looking for about 60 ohms, because the two 120 ohm terminators sit in parallel. 120 means one end of the bus is open. 40 means somebody hung an extra terminator on it. Then key on and read each leg to ground. Should be around 2.5 V each, and they should add up to near 5. If a leg is stuck at 0 or at 5 the bus is shorted and no gauge on the boat will talk.</p><p><br></p><p>On the no crank. Key does nothing, jumping the solenoid spins it fine. So the start request is not getting to the ECM, or the ECM is not awake to honor it. Does the gauge wake up at all and show hours? And is the shifter in neutral as far as the ECM is concerned?</p><p><br></p><p>I do not remember what 3-2 maps to on a DF300 and I am not going to guess at it. Get the real chart out of the Suzuki manual. The generic lists floating around are wrong half the time.</p><p><br></p><p>One thing I would look at hard is that white lead you moved off the battery and onto the switch. If that is the ECM keep alive, the ECM now cold boots every time you shut the switch off. Sixty days dead and then losing it daily is a real good way to have the network setup fall over. I could be wrong about what that wire does, so check it against the schematic before you move it back.</p><p><br></p><p>The display saying 2023 on a 2021 motor bothers me too. Sounds like that gauge was configured for a different model or year at some point. On these the model and year selection sits behind the dealer code and I have not found a way around that. A dealer with the SDS laptop can look at the ECM and the gauge and tell you which one is not on the network.</p><p><br></p><p>Thanks for laying it out so clearly. Keep us posted on what the meter says.</p>
 
Thank you for the detailed response. I might not have been clear on the white wire for ECM, display, ignition power. Initially it was connected directly to the battery and kept everything energized. Without the onboard battery charger being plugged in it would discharge the battery. I forgot to mention I did remove the resistor bridge at the harness by the engines and when measured returned a value of 60ohms indicating harness to resistors at BCM is ok. You are correct error codes from internet can be inaccurate. The codes I found online indicated map sensor. I paid for the Suzuki manual and df300ap 3-2 fault is the intake manifold temperature sensor. According to the manual it isn't one of the no start/run faults. The fuel pump is live when key and battery switch are on, but I did notice it doesn't shut off after a few seconds as indicated in the manual. I forgot to check whether it was due to inadequate fuel pressure. The displays show shifters in neutral and battery voltage. Shifting isn't reflected by the display and I dont hear the shift motor make any sound. I verified voltage at the various port engine relays but trim and tilt doesn't work. Stbd T&T does, but port I only hear the relay click whether I try at the shifter or using the engine switch. The motors are on a friends boat, he isn't a bank, so I agreed to help him. I dont want to guess at part replacement considering the cost of ECM, display and BCM. The diagnostic part of the manual has a section for checking voltage at the various points of the harness but its all based on the use of special Suzuki adapters that go in the harness between the ECM, BCM and Display. Your recommendation for a dealer laptop plugin is probably the most efficient way to go.
 
My understanding is white wire shouldn’t discharge the battery/batteries. It powers the ECM with the key off so the tilt/trim switches will allow engine raise and lower. Once the ignition switch is turned on power is sent back to the ECM via a grey wire that powers everything else, fuel pump, starting circuit and I think the neutral safety switch is tied in to the grey wire somehow. There should be a 15 amp fuse on the white wire.

No power to the white wire the engine won’t start, if running and you lose power to the white wire the engine will shut down.

I’m no expert, I’m working off memory from reading up on the white wire.
 
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