<p>First thing I would pin down is which cool fuel you actually have, because the swap is a different job on a Gen 2 can than on a Gen 3 module.</p><p><br></p><p>As I remember it the Gen 2 is the big canister low on the front of the engine with plain water hoses on clamps, and the Gen 3 is the compact module where the hoses are molded ends that seal on an O ring instead of a barb. That difference is the whole reason you keep getting told the hoses have to go with the pump.</p><p><br></p><p>The rubber is usually fine. What fails is the seal surface, and once that nipple is pitted you cannot clamp a plain hose over it and expect it to stay air tight. Air pulled in on the suction side of the raw water pump does not show up at idle, it shows up as the engine creeping hot at cruise, which is a miserable thing to chase.</p><p><br></p><p>Second thing, before you bolt the new module on, pull the blue drain plug and rod out the cavity behind it. If it is packed with sand or silt the new pump will cook the fuel the same way the old one did and you will be doing this again next season. Bt Doctur already said it and he is right.</p><p><br></p><p>I would also check whether the aftermarket unit comes with the pressure regulator and the water in fuel sensor. Some of them do not, and then you are moving old parts onto a new housing.</p><p><br></p><p>What is the valve you are calling the meter valve, is that the one in the parts breakdown between the cooler and the rail? I am not sure I have the right part in my head. thanks</p>
