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2016 Suzuki DF140 overheating issue

T

TonyD84

New member
Hi all, I have a few questions. For context, I have been having issues getting a strong stream flowing from my Tell tale which lead to my DF140 shutting off within 10 seconds on the water once I I tried to open the throttle. I tried a few times to get it restarted which it eventually did, but by this stage there was no water exiting the tell tale so that's where the day on the water ended.

Once home I ran water through the upper flush port then connected my ear muffs and tried to run the motor, once again, no water was exiting the tell tale after 30 seconds so I shut it off. I then preceded to replace the Thermostat and Water pump kit (it looks like the mechanic who previously did this a few months ago used the same housing seal and it was in very poor condition). It did initially have water exit the tell tale, but stupidly, as I had my Salt-Away cannister connected to my Ear muffs I tried to turn the cannister from Rinse to Salt-Away, which then dropped the water pressure and after 30 seconds the outboard sounded the alarm and shut off. I did try to restart it a few times, it would restart and then shut off after 10-15 seconds as it was too hot.

My next steps;
- I removed the Thermostat and connected the garden hose to the upper flush port to confirm water exiting out the top, then reinstalled the upper flush port plug,
- I then directed the garden hose through the small tale hole hose and confirmed water exited the tell tale hole,
- Then directed the garden hose through the larger hose above the Thermostat and confirmed water exiting the lower unit,
- I then reconnected everything and tried to re-start the Outboard but this time with the Thermostat removed to see if water would 'instantly' come out via the tell tale but the motor must of been still hot as it shut off after about 30 seconds. during that time no water was seen coming out the tell tale, and lastly
- I did check the Poppet valve there was a grain of sand but it looked in okay condition with no deterioration or corrosion...but I am not sure if it has ever been changed.

So my questions are;
1. Could my ear muffs and garden hose pressure be too weak? The ear muffs are the rectangular type where water enters from one side, but just to reiterate, even out on the water the motor still shut off, potentially due to lack of water exiting the tell tale.

2. Am I doing catastrophic damage to my Outboard by continually trying to start it after each time? I did check the dipstick and the oil is still amber and not milky, finally

3. Is there anything else I can do that I have missed?
 
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I haven't had this issue with my new-to-me Suzi DF140, but on my old Honda BF130, it was quite often that I'd have to run a 3' section of weed eater plastic line up the pipe of the telltale and that would always clear it out and get it peeing again.

Not sure if that's the issue, but it's worth checking out.

Old No7
 
<p>Short answer to your three... yes, yes, and yes there is still one thing you have not done.</p><p><br></p><p>First off, stop starting it. Every one of those hot restarts with no water moving is another heat cycle you do not need. The alarm shutting it down is the ECU doing its job, but it only saves you once. Oil still amber is a good sign, though I would do a compression check before you spend another dollar on cooling parts.</p><p><br></p><p>On question 1, the muffs can absolutely be part of it. The single sided rectangular ones are marginal on a 140. But it did the same thing on the water, so do not blame the muffs. And back flushing those hoses with a garden hose only proved the passages are clear. It did not prove the pump is pumping.</p><p><br></p><p>Here is the part that bothers me. With the thermostat out there is nothing holding water back on that side, so you should have seen something come out of that housing within a few seconds of it firing. You did not. That says the water is not reaching the powerhead at all, so everything from the intake screens up to the top of the water tube is back on the table.</p><p><br></p><p>Pull the lower unit again. Four things I would look at.</p><p><br></p><p>The key or pin that locks the impeller to the drive shaft. If it came out with the old impeller, or sheared, a brand new impeller just sits there and spins free. Seen it more than once.</p><p><br></p><p>The stainless liner inside the pump housing. You said the last guy reused the seal, so have a look at the wear surface too. A new impeller cannot seal against a scored housing, and no amount of parts swapping fixes that.</p><p><br></p><p>The rubber grommet on top of the water tube where it pushes into the powerhead. Torn or pushed out of place and the pump moves water that never makes the turn, it just runs back out at the joint.</p><p><br></p><p>And check the water tube itself is not cracked or sitting crooked.</p><p><br></p><p>The poppet is not your smoking gun by the way. It only comes into play once you are up on rpm, so it will not cause a dry tell tale at idle. Worth doing while you are in there if it has never been changed.</p><p><br></p><p>Once it is back together, do not test it on muffs. Get it in a tub or a trash can with the water line above the cavitation plate. That takes hose pressure out of the equation completely.</p><p><br></p><p>Let us know what the housing looks like when you get in there.</p>
 
It sounds like you accidentally ran the new water pump kit dry when you changed from rinse to salt away? If so the new impeller may be compromised.

The ECM is designed/programmed to shut the engine down before damage occurs on overheat.
 
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