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how to retrieve the raw water pump broken propeller piece in the cooling system after pump pro replacement?

N

Niskry

New member
Hi everyone, I overheated during the last ride (1996 5.0L V8 Penta - Ford engine) and diagnosed the raw water pump failure; the rubber prop has no bald left. I have rebuilt the pump completely and am asking for your help on where and how to best try and reverse flush the system to fetch as much possible rubber piece as I could. Any direction and idea would be greatly appreciated; thank you, have a nice weekend everyone!
 
Pic of the pump
 

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From the outlet of the pump follow the hose to the therm housing and remove the hoses and check for the vanes Then go to the manifolds and do the same thing Remove the hoses and inspect for any rubber vanes
 
Thank you Bt Doc!, i really appreciatethe help.
I did already for the Tst housing and replaced it while i was there, nothing in there.
Next week be going to the manifolds, and i assume you are referring to the exhaust manifolds (plural)? If I do not see any while removing the hose, it's it worth disconnecting the 90 below, flipping it upward and filling it with water in hope to get it flushed?
How about the intake manifold, do i do the same from the tst interface hoping to push debris back to the water circulation pump?
 
Back flushed the engine, got a few pieces of rubber here and there...
Did the raw water flow test and no thing come up the house.
I do not see any obvious leak and of i reverse the water, the water comes out the intake holes in the stern...
Where do I look next?
 
Yes, and it works before the transom but does not seem from the outsize of the transom. Did some one had the metal spigot create a leak?
 
The most likely spots are the thermostat housing and the inlets for the exhaust manifolds. I would remove the thermostat housing and clean out every passageway and remove the inlet fittings for the exhaust manifolds and do the same with them.
After doing that, I would get a helper and hook up a garden hose to the inlet of each exhaust manifold. Turn on the water and compare the flow from one side to the other, (watch at the outlet ports on the bottom of the transom mount at the rear of the boat) that will verify that there are not likely to be clogs in the manifolds or elbows. If you see a difference you should take apart the side that is flowing less to check.

Try running it again, but monitor the temps of the exhaust manifolds with an IR temp gun. It's possible a piece could be lodged in one of the water passages between the top of the manifold and bottom of the elbow.
 
I back flushed the engine part and it seems fine.
It looks like the raw water pump may be fighting an air leak, but no obvious to diagnose.
It's working inboard but not last the transom. I am about to pull the metal spigot that goes through the transom...
 
This is an SX style drive right? There is a plastic fitting in the pivot housing (the part that the outdrive bolts on to) that can cracks and then it can suck air when the boats on plane…
There are also water tube grommets inside the drive that can dry out & crack and suck in air.
 
Yes you are correct.
I am trying to pump with the end of this spigot submerged in water, with someone holding it down a flower vase but it does not work...
I am ok before the transom though.
But not past the transom...
That is why I am going to try to remove the metal connector on the transom housing...
 
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