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spring clutch, 4hp (80s 90s 2cyl) J4 / E4 & similar- not engaging, lower unit

B

bfriendly

New member
I've had my '98 Model: J4 / E4, gearcase apart several times- (2.5hp & some 3hp are the same). Yes 2-cylinder, 2-stroke of course.
What's happening; propeller is slowly turning in neutral and in gear, ("barely engaged") but does not engage any more than this when shifted in forward gear. Yes the shear pin is good, and the prop is not the type to spin the hub.

I've studied how it works and the shift rod is not bent. (it moves up, out of the way to engage)

I might need a new set of eyes on the problem. Only possibility I can see at this point is the spring broke, (perhaps) just a little length off of the non engagement end- and is not as thick as it could be, despite looking normal. I'd kind of like to figure out for sure if this is the issue before throwing a $50 replacement part (spring) at it, or starting a hunt for a used lower unit.... So in desperation I tried a shim, 1/10" (~2.7mm) thick washer in there on the non engagement side of the spring, and the result- engine was fully stuck in gear no matter f/n, etc.

Is there anything I can look for on this model? or tips from experience (some other johnson evinrude 's use this same system going further back in vintage). - I've compared the parts diagrams, thinking someone previously left something out (I picked this up as-is) = it's complete, looks brand new so I doubt wear is the issue, but checked anyway..no play on that shaft etc either as far as bushing wear or similar movement goes.

I guess I'm going to try another shim half the thickness, But ANY input or encouragement/experiences would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance

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This " wrap spring " idea was used on Mercury motors in the 50's.-----On 40 / 75 / 100 HP Johnson in the 1960's-----Shimming won't help.-----Put a new spring in there.
 
I think the problem would be the worn components, inspect the clutch dog, gear teeth, and engagement area for wear, and check if the spring has lost tension.

Internal wear is also the key point sometimes: examine parts for subtle wear and ensure the shift shaft bushing is in good shape and lubricated.
 
I have a newly purchased J3REOD (1995 Johnson 3 hp) that won’t shift into neutral. The shift rod moves down when the lever moves back to neutral so I think the issue is within the gearbox. My hypothesis is that the previous owner attempted to replace the impeller (it’s new) and pulled the driveshaft up, causing the pinion and bearing/space to fall loose in the housing. They opened it up, maybe couldn’t quite get it back together right. The end bit of the spring that sticks out was broken off about ¼” – I found it inside the housing. Big picture is, I can’t figure out how the shift lever can cause the motor to shift into neutral – what is the mechanism that does this? Neutral causes the shift lever to lower, pushing against the spring, which does what? This is my first attempt at rehab of a motor but I’m not finding much on how this 2-speed gearbox works.

And am I right in assuming the broken tip is integral to how the spring works and I need to replace it? Appreciate any insight or guidance, placed to go to learn more, etc.
 
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