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Joe Help Please 1969 85HP Johnson Rough IdleStalls

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Rob vanV

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" I just got a 1969 85HP Johns

" I just got a 1969 85HP Johnson #85ESL69M and have a couple of questions:

CHOKE: Should the automatic choke solenoid draw current when: manual choke lever is in AUTO, key is ON, choke switch on dash is OFF, forcing the solenoid plunger up (choke OFF)? It gets quite hot. The choke has been Stuck ON (plunger down with the dash switch OFF) a couple of times causing the motor to flood - I'm just using manual choke for now and wonder if I should replace the choke solenoid?

STARTER: The gear on the starter that engages the flywheel (bendix?) seems to disengage very prematurely at times not allowing enough time for the motor to fire up and start. Seems to be more evident when the engine is warm?? Is this normal? What causes it to disengage - certain RPM?

IDLE TROUBLE: When cold, the engine is a bit hard to start but it starts. It idles a bit rough (shudders a bit sounds like its missing). When you give it throttle and get cruising it runs great. But, it seems once it was warmed up it will not idle - misses even worse at idle speed and will stall out. Then it is hard to start but once it starts it will run well at speed again but will not idle if warm. It has a new amplifier assembly and a recent compression test shows (130,130,128,120). Where do you think I should start? Ignition or Carb? "
 
"Rob....

Choke: If choke so

"Rob....

Choke: If choke solenoid has two wires, one purple/yellow and one purple/white, the wiring setup is a slight OMC goof. At the engine electrical terminal strip, connect both of the solenoid wires to the engine harness purple/white wire. Now, the solenoid will only operate when you engage the choke switch. Should that solenoid stick and you can't correct it, replace it.

Starter: Replace the bendix drive assy.

Idle: Remove, clean, and rebuild the carbiretors. I believe that those carburetors have adjustable slow speed needle valves. If so, adjust as follows after you have rebuilt them.

(Dual Carb V/4 With 4 (2 each carb) Slow Speed Adjustable N/Valves)

The adjustment procedure of the carburetor slow speed needle valves follows. NOTE... if the needle valves turn too freely, replace the nylon bearing retainer (the nylon item at the front of the carb that the needle valve goes through first) with the newer type RED retainer #315232.

If your engine has that weird linkage that connects all four of those needle valves, the newer RED retainers will enable you to discard that linkage. The RED retainers make it impossible for the needle valves to viberate out of adjustment.

(Carburetor Adjustment - 2 Slow Speed Adjustable Needle Valves, each carburetor)

Initial setting is: All (4) Slow speed valves = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Facing the carburetors, start with the top left needle valve, then the top right valve, then the bottom let valve, then the bottom right valve. It may be necessary to redo these steps to get the adjustments ideally set

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Do not attempt to gradually adjust all four of the valves at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Joe
"
 
" have you removed the flywhee

" have you removed the flywheel ,set the points to 0.010 and cleaned the d-cap and rotor? "
 
joereeves said:
"Rob....

Choke: If choke so

"Rob....

Choke: If choke solenoid has two wires, one purple/yellow and one purple/white, the wiring setup is a slight OMC goof. At the engine electrical terminal strip, connect both of the solenoid wires to the engine harness purple/white wire. Now, the solenoid will only operate when you engage the choke switch. Should that solenoid stick and you can't correct it, replace it.

Starter: Replace the bendix drive assy.

Idle: Remove, clean, and rebuild the carbiretors. I believe that those carburetors have adjustable slow speed needle valves. If so, adjust as follows after you have rebuilt them.

(Dual Carb V/4 With 4 (2 each carb) Slow Speed Adjustable N/Valves)

The adjustment procedure of the carburetor slow speed needle valves follows. NOTE... if the needle valves turn too freely, replace the nylon bearing retainer (the nylon item at the front of the carb that the needle valve goes through first) with the newer type RED retainer #315232.

If your engine has that weird linkage that connects all four of those needle valves, the newer RED retainers will enable you to discard that linkage. The RED retainers make it impossible for the needle valves to viberate out of adjustment.

(Carburetor Adjustment - 2 Slow Speed Adjustable Needle Valves, each carburetor)

Initial setting is: All (4) Slow speed valves = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Facing the carburetors, start with the top left needle valve, then the top right valve, then the bottom let valve, then the bottom right valve. It may be necessary to redo these steps to get the adjustments ideally set

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Do not attempt to gradually adjust all four of the valves at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Joe
"
Click to expand...
I know this is a long-dead thread -- but I am going to go out on a VERY precarious ledge and differ from Mr. Reeves.
The choke solenoid has two coils - one is tied to the ignition switch, and gets you to HALF choke. Energizing the second coil delivers FULL choke when the choke switch is actuated. If the two purple wires are connected. you only get full choke. So those wires should stay SEPARATED.
 
SteveInMN said:
I know this is a long-dead thread -- but I am going to go out on a VERY precarious ledge and differ from Mr. Reeves.
The choke solenoid has two coils - one is tied to the ignition switch, and gets you to HALF choke. Energizing the second coil delivers FULL choke when the choke switch is actuated. If the two purple wires are connected. you only get full choke. So those wires should stay SEPARATED.
Click to expand...
That's what he's wanting to do , because that eliminates the half choke. He wants to eliminate that half choke. Cause sometimes it acts up, and even though the motor is warm, it'll continue to choke and flood out your motor and make it run like c***. So now that he's got it hooked up where the choke will only work off of the switch when you push the choke, switch.And when you release the choke releases. O m c ealized that was a mess up as Joe stated.It was a goof. That is why, on the later models, the chokes, Illinois only has one wire. It doesn't have that automatic with the wire hooked up to a temperature sensor.
 
It was an attempt at
" automatic choke "----Most were bypassed as above to only operate manually.----Nothing wrong with that if you understand how to start one of vthese older motors!
 
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