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SHIFTING INTO NEUTRAL STALLS ONLY 1 WAY

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helix757

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Hello fellow boaters, I have a fun one to try to diagnose.

Last year I put a 6.2L MX MPI in my 1999 Rinker 242 Fiesta Vee but retained my Alpha Gen 2 outdrive. I also replaced the transom assembly which included a new lower shift cable.

Everything works perfectly except for the shift interrupt. When the change initially happened, we changed the switch to the proper plunger style and wired it to ground out the coil as described online.

However, when I shift from Forward to Neutral, 90% of the time, the engine stalls. However, when I shift from reverse to neutral, I never stall. I've had my mechanic try to fix the issue, including adjusting the barrels on the shifter, but no dice.

The other thing that is odd is that the 10% of the time that I shift from Forward to Neutral and it doesn't stall, there is a noticeable delay in the engine re-igniting.

This makes docking a royal PIA, and I am looking to get this fixed ASAP. I have come across this aftermarket solution that may help below, but I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts before I through more money at the problem.

www.omc-mercruiser.smartinterrupt.com

MerCruiser & OMC Switch Fix | Marsden Smart Interrupt

Looking for the ultimate MerCruiser & OMC switch fix? The Marsden Smart Interrupt is the only patented electronic solution for smoother shifting.
www.omc-mercruiser.smartinterrupt.com www.omc-mercruiser.smartinterrupt.com
 
Typically if it doesn't interrupt it's because there is not enough travel into gear so, not enough travel back to neutral to cause switch operation.
Try readjusting the cables being sure to push or pull as applicable the slack as each adjustment is made.
I know it is seems wrong to adjust more travel into gear to assist in getting it out of gear. Just be sure that when in gear the switch is not beginning to depress. If so, then you have too much in gear adjustment.
Does that thing have the shift assist spring piston assembly installed? (Personally, I don't like the system but I'm old and cranky).
If so, I believe there is a bit different method of adjustment used.
 
Droid said:
Typically if it doesn't interrupt it's because there is not enough travel into gear so, not enough travel back to neutral to cause switch operation.
Try readjusting the cables being sure to push or pull as applicable the slack as each adjustment is made.
I know it is seems wrong to adjust more travel into gear to assist in getting it out of gear. Just be sure that when in gear the switch is not beginning to depress. If so, then you have too much in gear adjustment.
Does that thing have the shift assist spring piston assembly installed? (Personally, I don't like the system but I'm old and cranky).
If so, I believe there is a bit different method of adjustment used.
Click to expand...
Interesting perspective. I thought it was interrupting too long causing a total stall rather than an interrupt. You're suggesting that it's not interrupting at all which is causing the stall -- is that correct?
 
Most 6.2's are set up for the Bravo drives....the alpha shift interupter is a bit different...what changes did you make to ensure compatability?
 
makomark said:
Most 6.2's are set up for the Bravo drives....the alpha shift interupter is a bit different...what changes did you make to ensure compatability?
Click to expand...
I followed this guide below which I believe just grounds out the coil when the switch IS actuated.

IMG_4655.png
 
If I recall, some switches shorted out the ignition, others put the timing into a base mode. In other words instead of momentarily cutting the ignition off it retards the timing to slow the idle significantly thus reducing the force required to shift to neutral.
If your "new" engine's ECM uses the base timing method then shorting out the coil is the wrong system.
I can't wrap my head around it from here, sorry.
 
helix757 said:
I followed this guide below which I believe just grounds out the coil when the switch IS actuated.
Click to expand...
No, the guide you posted 'deletes' the alpha approach, which is to short to ground (the ignition coil's current) when the interrupter switch trips. Based on what I read, the guide say to get the Bravo switch, put it on the alpha bracket and then redo the wiring so the switch interrupts the +12VDC feed to the coil driver when the interrrupt switch trips.

Have you watched the interrupter switch while returning to N from both FWD and REV? a short video could go a long way to understanding what is/is not happening.

Like Droid suggested, cable adjustment is the most likely culprit. Conclusion from rereading the thread is that this has existed since the engine swap occurred. Other possibilities are the lower shift cable was not installed correctly or got damaged during the install. when disconnected from the adjusting end, it should have very little drag when going from one end to the other.
 
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