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Please help

Bsmg777

New member
OMG
Electronic ignition blew apart on my aq120b. Shop talked me into putting in points. I have not been able to get engine to run correctly since. Set points to .016
New plugs to .30
New fuel/water separator
Made sure fuel flowing after boat sat for 1 year
Added fuel and stabilizer.
Engine runs perfect for up to one minute, then acts badly.
What might I be doing wrong? Please help
 
Check for water in the fuel/water separator.... dump contents of filter into a wide mouth jar and wait 20 mins for the contents to settle.
When you installed points, did you also install the required condensor?
 
Check for water in the fuel/water separator.... dump contents of filter into a wide mouth jar and wait 20 mins for the contents to settle.
When you installed points, did you also install the required condensor?
I did, and connected it to negative side of coil.? (and did mean .030 on the plug gap). Maybe check to see if float is stuck or gummed up in carb?
 
Condenser has two leads.... negative which is the can/mounting clip itself and the wire that connects to the same lead as the points at the distributor.
Ok... next to check is verify that the plugs wires are correctly connected.
Was gas Ok?
 
Condenser has two leads.... negative which is the can/mounting clip itself and the wire that connects to the same lead as the points at the distributor.
Ok... next to check is verify that the plugs wires are correctly connected.
Was gas Ok?
The gas seems ok. I really appreciate the help, by the way.
So, only one wire to the condenser, right? Coming off the negative side of coil? Points plug into same mounting clip as condenser? That’s how I have it. I took out points again and had to clean with Emory board. Reset to .016.
Runs smooth as silk for 30 seconds, then all signs of fix go away. Lol. Starts running poorly again. I will be away for a few days.
Thanks, Ron
 
the ballast resistor limits the flow of current in the primary circuit of the ignition...without the resistor in the circuit (or if the resistor is there but shorted out) the points usually burn out due to the excess current. The value of the resistor is only a couple ohms. It is usually located in the +12VDC ignition lead, from the key switch to the + terminal of the coil.

The best test is to measure the voltage between the + terminal of the coil and ground...a good ballast resistor will result in about 9 VDC ... is its showing battery voltage, then the ballast resistor function is not functioning as intended (is been eliminated, wired around, or has shorted internally).
 
the ballast resistor limits the flow of current in the primary circuit of the ignition...without the resistor in the circuit (or if the resistor is there but shorted out) the points usually burn out due to the excess current. The value of the resistor is only a couple ohms. It is usually located in the +12VDC ignition lead, from the key switch to the + terminal of the coil.

The best test is to measure the voltage between the + terminal of the coil and ground...a good ballast resistor will result in about 9 VDC ... is its showing battery voltage, then the ballast resistor function is not functioning as intended (is been eliminated, wired around, or has shorted internally).
Hmmm. You might be on to something. I do know the wire from coil to condenser is direct. I will check it when I get back. Give me a few days. Thank you, thank you
 
Probably good to get the wiring diagram from a factory manual...there may be a 'bypass during start' connection around the ballast resistor and a couple of other things that aren't clear without that diagram....just food for thought.
 
Ok, I don’t know of this. Please elaborate
I’m unable to secure a new resistor, and tired of messing with it. I am going to order up the electronic ignition. The coil is for that, so hopefully two wires and I’ll be good. I will let you know. I’m waiting on a callback from Pentronics to make sure I can get the 2842. They said up to 10 days.
 
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