I know this is a long-dead thread -- but I am going to go out on a VERY precarious ledge and differ from Mr. Reeves.
The choke solenoid has two coils - one is tied to the ignition switch, and gets you to HALF choke. Energizing the second coil delivers FULL choke when the choke switch is...
I know this thread is long-dead, but for anyone diving into the Archives, the CDI combination Rectifier/Regulator does NOT test this way. Only ONE yellow lead has a diode -- the other yellow will test O.L. in both directions -- this is NORMAL, not FAILED.
OK, got it 95% sorted.
It turned out to be the distributor cap -- or the rotor -- or the plug wires -- or the DEAD SHORT in the hot wire connecting the two points sets (!!!)
Now it idles without dying and, most critically, it RESTARTS.
So now through long, slow channels, the warm motor's...
Throttle position does NOT matter on that 2 stroke model.
-- Good to know!
Does choke come on part way when you turn key to " on "?
----Yes!
Does choke close fully when you operate the choke switch ?
----Again - yes !
Does choke come OFF when motor warms?
----Good thought! I will verify...
Thanks for getting back!
Spark on a" good " ignition system can jump 1/2" and yes HALF INCH.----Need to look into that.
-- Agreed, seems short. I'm going off this old thread stating anything over 1/4" is 'normal' for this engine (1969 V4) -...
1969 Evinrude 85.
Starts from cold a little slow.
Runs rough at low (idle level) speed. Coming into dock, often dies and when it does it WILL NOT restart. I never turn it off out on the water because it WILL NOT restart. Pull the plugs, dry them, let the cylinders air, reassemble and it starts...
I'd be inclined to look at the diagram, figure out what functions the wires have and whether they carry directional current (diodes) and connect them so they perform the work they are intended for. Not much substitute for understanding. Or you could just go with the setup that produces spark.
Ok, I swapped the needle valves and seats and floats from the top to the bottom carb and lo and behold, now the bottom carb leaks. So it must be a bad valve or a bad float after all, despite the recent replacements. I have OEM NOS ones on order and will revert once they are in and installed.
Compression: 105#, each cylinder. Probably a bit better, since this was without the throttle wide open (I forgot that part)
Distributor cap: Wasn't visibly dirty, but was wiped clean anyway during the major go-through this past winter.
Breaker points: Set @ 0.010" and cleaned (dirty points...
Right, I would not ordinarily pump that hard - but I'm trying to figure out which carb is admitting too much fuel. The bottom one seals tight after filling, the top one sez "Come on in!". But- given enough pressure, maybe that's normal? Dunno.