The vacuum connection just adjusts the operating point of the regulator. This is to maintain a fairly constant pressure difference across the injector as the throttle plate opens and closes.
There may be small 'leakage' past the regulator when the inlet is pressurized. Ideally, the 'leakage '...
Is the alarm the Crusader system alarm or and add-on alarm added by the Boat Builder?
A scan tool will give you the state of the Crusader alarm as well as showing the state of the relevant inputs...if its an add-on, the scan tool won't help at all.
unbolt the retainer clips and the rails will pop off the injectors - similar to the triton engines used on the trucks.
if the path is blocked from one sde of the fuel rail to the other, then the side that is wet is likely at full pump pressure (no regulator connection) and probably...
The harness connector looks similar to a trailer wiring connector but it has 8 connectors vs 4.
I doubt the alternator had any impact on the coil...can't say about the module...
assuming your swap of the ignitor module was AFTER replacing the alternator, I'd say you can monitor the +12VDC feed to the coil and ignitor module and see if it disappears when the engine dies. You can also delete the ballast resistor if the flamethrower coil is still installed. the other...
The mid 1990's were very dynamic regarding GM marine engine configurations...mostly driven by the desire to get EFI into the marine domain. The TBI versions, as best as I can tell, came in two flavors - the big difference being the operating fuel pressure.
The sad part is the TBI units had a...
I doubt the multimeter will provide the necessary fidelity of waveform details.
Looking at the taCH ON THE 'NEW' photo, I don't see a brand name on its label...which is a red flag here, too ( good telltale for what Droid calls Chineesium).
The 'old' tach likely didn't work as it was an...
I dn't think think a 10K resistor is going to help, especially when its connections are described. And I don't believe the condensor is having an adverse impact on the tach.
See if you can get an oscilloscope from the same source you got the signal generator from...and then see what appears on...
If you send me your email in a 'conversation', I can send you a PDF of the owner's manual for that vintage...click on the envelope next to your username at the top...on a laptop anyhow...
It covers all of the items needed to be done but doesn't always provide the details desired.
assuming the tachs are good, I would suspect some aspect of the interconnecting wires ....
the tachometer model number(s) for the replacements would be good to have for those of us not present...
the few I have seen have the battery right at the motor so there is really no wiring that stays in the boat...using the KISS principal typically yields an optimal result...