Been changing drive lube every season, always looked good. Short season around here, boat is planned to go up in coming 4 weeks with no further trips planned. I will probably only run it to check the switch when it arrives.
While waiting for parts, on to the next issue.
I have a squealing/screaming sound, like a bad pulley bearing but from the back of the engine that started this season. I originally assumed it was from the drive joint/nut that hasn’t come off since I bought boat and probably needs some attention...
I think this confirms it!
I ran the boat with the switch bypassed, jumper cable between pin 1 and 3 on the connector according to a Service Bulletin I saw one of you link to in another thread. This allowed me to run it in gear all the way down to hot idle at 630-650 RPM without any stall...
Gotcha, I believe it is open when depressed.
I should then be able to jump the end of the harness contact, fire up the engine, go into gear and see if it will run better at idle. I’m guessing going into gear will be more rough when the switch is disconnected and isn’t killing the engine as it...
I will order a new switch thanks guys!
I can’t reliably tell if it is broken or not by measuring it with the multimeter, it does close and open when I press it manually but seem to be more sensitive than it should be.
An update after I have run the diagnostics.
I get the following errors if I run the engine without stalling it i.e. just idle:
94 Pitot pressure low
75 Fuel level 1 circuit high
119 Steering Circuit low
104 Lake/sea Temp circuit high
130 Trim sensor Circuit high
I think these are unrelated to...
You live and you learn…
Yeah that is why I initially was skeptical to a drive issue as well. I just recently learnt I can get a hold of scanner, had I known that from the beginning I might have started in that end.
The progressive nature of these issue over several seasons seem unaffected by...
Awesome, thank you for taking the time!
I can borrow/rent a TechMate pro scanner, it will take me like a week or two to fix that though. I get that the scanner would indicate faulty sensors, but would it help rule out a sticky shift cable as well?
OM631XXX
I have analogue gauges which are a little hard to read, it idles strong at something like 750-ish rpm. I’m currently unable to get it to idle in gear, the lowest I can go in gear without stall is 1100. A few weeks ago it would idle fine in gear once you’ve shifted but it has gradually...
I was down to the boat today to try to figure out a good way to diagnose if it really is the lower cable binding without any luck. The plunger type switch engages when shifting but really difficult to tell if it is touched when the engine dies.
Anyone able to give a hint to what I should be...
Thanks! The drive is coming off either way this winter for maintenance. Any trick to troubleshooting? Read somewhere to disconnect the upper cable and try to shift by hand?