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OMC COBRA TKO horrible noise

jacobnYA

Member
Hi all! Im back with new issue. Last saturday my 1989 bayliner capri 2.3 omc cobra made a awful sound like if the ujoint broke or something. Today i took off the drive and the ujoints are still intact. So i dont know what made that sound. When i tried to start it i heard rumbling while it was cranking. Can it be the engine? Can it be something in the lower drive? And any tips on replacing , impellar, bellows,Gimble bearing? I will be replacing all those with new
Thank you for your time
 
No i have not, i didn’t know if i could run it like that or not. But if its okay to do so then ill try it.
Yes it's fine to run with the drive off.

Connect the water hose at the thermostat housing where the hose from the drive connects
 
You can take the propeller off, then take off the back plate, then there is a large snap ring holding on the back drive section, which is the reverse section, and then most of that will come out, and you can see the pinion gear and see what's going on. Most parts are available on this website, but if unavailable, try Ebay. Replace all seals and gaskets. You may end up dissecting the whole out-drive.
It takes a pretty heavy duty snap ring tool, that will cost you about $40. Anything smaller won't work - I went through three of them.
 
Neil, he has a Cobra drive. It's thru hub exhaust. No back plate with 4 screws. There are 4 screws but they are located about 4" in. Then remove the bearing carrier, snap ring & steel plate.

Basically the 4 cyl Cobras used a mid '80s vintage V4 outboard (14"max dia prop & 4 1/4" dia hub) gearcase with a shortened vertical driveshaft adapted to the upper gearcase. The water pump was moved from its conventional location to the back of the upper input shaft. Very easy to change.

FWIW, the V6 & V8s had the same layout but used a V6 outboard (16" max dia prop & 4 3/4" dia hub) gearcase.

If the gearcase disintegrated because of lack of oil then the top failed before the bottom. Remove the top cover 4 bolts & look inside.

Since you have the drive off, reach inside the bellows & stick 2 fingers in the gimbal bearing. Turn the bearing. Is it smooth & quiet?
 
Yes the gimble is okay. I separated the top and bottom casings and i can turn the yoke and ujoints fine but the lower unit will turn a lil then something snags so i think something inside broke, im gonna take it apart today.
 
Neil, he has a Cobra drive. It's thru hub exhaust. No back plate with 4 screws. There are 4 screws but they are located about 4" in. Then remove the bearing carrier, snap ring & steel plate.

Basically the 4 cyl Cobras used a mid '80s vintage V4 outboard (14"max dia prop & 4 1/4" dia hub) gearcase with a shortened vertical driveshaft adapted to the upper gearcase. The water pump was moved from its conventional location to the back of the upper input shaft. Very easy to change.

FWIW, the V6 & V8s had the same layout but used a V6 outboard (16" max dia prop & 4 3/4" dia hub) gearcase.

If the gearcase disintegrated because of lack of oil then the top failed before the bottom. Remove the top cover 4 bolts & look inside.

Since you have the drive off, reach inside the bellows & stick 2 fingers in the gimbal bearing. Turn the bearing. Is it smooth & quiet?
Mine has a 2.3 ford motor. So whats the best way to check out the gears in the lower?
 
As I stated in the 1st paragraph of post 7 above. That will get you to the gears. They all come out thru the hub opening.
 
You can take the propeller off, then take off the back plate, then there is a large snap ring holding on the back drive section, which is the reverse section, and then most of that will come out, and you can see the pinion gear and see what's going on. Most parts are available on this website, but if unavailable, try Ebay. Replace all seals and gaskets. You may end up dissecting the whole out-drive.
It takes a pretty heavy duty snap ring tool, that will cost you about $40. Anything smaller won't work - I went through three of them.
I see what you mean now about having a good set of snapping players geez, that thing is big. I’m gonna have to make something that will work, because the pair of snapping players I got ain’t gonna cut it.
 
yea i found what the problem is. The small gear from the vertical shaft broke a few teeth off. So now i have to find a way to get that nut off so i can remove the gears, any idea of what to use? Or does that nut need to be removed to get the gears out ?
 
The nut has to be removed to get the pinion gear out, and the forward gear, if needed. It is held on the shaft with a spline connection and will fall out when you pull the shaft up through the top. You will also need a new nut, as they are designed to just be torqued once and then throw away.
It took me two weeks to get the right set-up to get that nut off. My nut was 1 1/8 inch, and I bought a socket, and I sliced about a quarter to a third of it off, right down top to bottom, so it wouldn't bind on the back forward gear, and used a breaker bar, which was small enough to fit in there, and it would still slip off. I bought another socket and cut off enough to leave 6 of the eight corners, about a quarter of it off. If you slice off a socket, set it up so you are slicing it in the right place to have enough movement, and use an angle grinder with an1/16th inch carbundium cut-off blade. Oh, I used something to wedge the bottom of the breaker bar up, so that it would not slip off, I think I just pounded in a long hardwood wedge to hold it up against the nut. You have to invent tools when working on these older drives. Oh, you also need to hold the shaft at the top, and you need a special spline nut, available on this website, I believe. You can just hold it on the bottom with it all locked-in and turn it from the top with a large rachet or torque wrench. That is how it finally came loose. My nut got rounded off from earlier attempts and there was hardly anything left of it. It may work with an open-end wrench on the bottom if it is small enough and you have some means of wedging it up hard enough to hold, when you turn it from the top.
 
Ok i got the nut off. On mine it was a 7/8 nut and so i just put a open end wrench on it and put some vice grips on the shaft and gave it a good wack and it broke free. Took it off and the gear came out. But now i need to take out the other gear thats in there and i cant figure it out. I think their might be some kind of pin cause where the shift lever screws in i can see something under that but cant get to it. Any ideas??
Thanks in advance
 
Good job. If you are talking about the forward gear in the back, mine (1976 OMC electric shift 302) had another one of those big-ass snap rings, but yours is a Cobra, and I don't know. Look at the exploded view on this website of your drive and you should get the manual, also on this website. A mechanic's mirror on an adjustable rod may help you to see what is going on.
 
Good job. If you are talking about the forward gear in the back, mine (1976 OMC electric shift 302) had another one of those big-ass snap rings, but yours is a Cobra, and I don't know. Look at the exploded view on this website of your drive and you should get the manual, also on this website. A mechanic's mirror on an adjustable rod may help you to see what is going on.
Yea on the exploded view now i see a pin on the clutch dog but when i was working on it earlier i didnt see a pin let alone a way to remove a pin if there was one haha. Ill just have to take a closer look in the day and see try to find it and remove it. I was looking online and found a used lower gear case complete and it had been gone thru and resealed, pressure tested and everything turns smooth for $475. Idk im thinking maybe i should get that and buy all the parts to rebuild mine as i get extra cash for them and have it as a complete spare gear case cause the matched gear kit is over $500 just for the gears and then id have to get a reseal/gasket kit as well and other parts too so idk, what do you think?
 
You have come this far, you have done the hard part - you may as well just order what you need to get started, and the rest as you get the cash. You may find some of the parts on Ebay for cheaper.
 
You are correct. I found all three gears on eday for less than $200 with shipping. So im in the process of cleaning everything out and ill be ordering a gimble and ujoints and impellar. Then ill need a lower gear case seal kit and a upper seal kit. Not sure if ill need anything else to put back together. Oh yea that nut you said to replace too.
One thing im not sure about is the shift cradle and shift lever like how the lever attaches to the cradle cause it looks like there is a small hole on each side lf the lever but on the cradle theres nothing that would go into the holes of the lever. Ill have to research that some more.
 
That's great! Mine is an electric shift, not mechanical, so mine didn't have levers, just some coils that activate the gears by tightening a clutch spring, which is what was broken in mine. If you don't have the manual, you should get that too.
I'll bet Droid knows a thing or two.
 
Thanks Neil but Cobras were never my thing although I was a certified Evinrude guy for a while. There is some commonality in the lower gearcase & I have some rarely used tools.
Most all my experience is electric shift Fossil Drives & MerCruiser 1 thru Alpha gen 1 (1990 & earlier).
 
Thats cool you were a evinrude tech, but bummer you can’t shed some light on that cradle and lever. No worries Ill figure it out, iv come this far haha.
 
I'm thinking pin is item #21 but it's been years snce I've been inside one.
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